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New Kestrel Bridge. How to tie in?

Nutterbuster

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So I'm experimenting with switching out my amsteel bridge in favor of 1" tubular webbing . If I like it I'll stitch it, but does anybody have a good link to a recommended knot to tie it in for now?
 
also my preference would be to leave the knot in lieu of stitching - you'll be surprised how small it is.

leave tails a 3-4" long.
 
overhand on a bight(retrace) if you're tying straight to your kestrel loop. If you want two strips of webbing running through the bridge (continuous loop), use a water knot.
I'd like to tie into each loop separately. Is that possible with the overhand on a bight? How long of a piece would you recommend cutting for about a 30" bridge?
 
its been a minute since I've tied them with webbing. I'd tie one end loose, see how much you need, then untie, cut your webbing to the right length then tie them both. I'd cut it a few inches long just in case - can always trim later.

tying the knots will put you at about 75% of MBS(4000lbs - ish) of the webbing with a single strand, and 150% with continuous loop.
 
And yes, its possible - lots of videos and instructions
You're the man. I like the idea of 150% stronger, but don't like the idea of the extra material from the loop.

Why would you prefer tying over stitching. Properly done, shouldn't the stitching be able to potentially exceed the breaking strength of the webbing?
 
because the knot is a known quantity - if you tie the knot, and it looks like it supposed to, dressed properly, and with a sufficient tail to check for slippage (note - once loaded it ain't slippin), there's test upon test to show how strong it is.

with stitching, and this is coming from someone who's hung from thing's I've stitched on occasion, you're introducing a lot of variables. I'm assuming if you're here asking these questions, then you're not an expert in that field.

This is why I'd recommend the knot. Its a lower risk way to get what you want. Single strand will give you roughly 3000lb MBS, continuous loop roughly 6000lb MBS.
 
because the knot is a known quantity - if you tie the knot, and it looks like it supposed to, dressed properly, and with a sufficient tail to check for slippage (note - once loaded it ain't slippin), there's test upon test to show how strong it is.

with stitching, and this is coming from someone who's hung from thing's I've stitched on occasion, you're introducing a lot of variables. I'm assuming if you're here asking these questions, then you're not an expert in that field.

This is why I'd recommend the knot. Its a lower risk way to get what you want. Single strand will give you roughly 3000lb MBS, continuous loop roughly 6000lb MBS.
I definitely see your point. I am more familiar with stitching than I am knots. Just now getting into load-bearing stuff, but feel fairly confident. If I do decide to go webbing instead of amsteel, I'll probably stitch it and sign my own liability waiver just to have it cleaner.

I definitely appreciate your help, and acknowledge that a knot is more of a known thing than stitching, and safer. (Feel like it's important to say that with all the new dudes I see running around.)
 
Ok. Had to look at what I had tied up. Figure 8 on a bight in both sides.


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I have a 3/4 inch webbing on my Sit drag DIY saddle. Seems to be a good fit for me, however I understand why amsteel is popular. I'm still learning about saddle hunting, but this thread makes me feel alittle more confident in my current set up.
 
Good talk. Inspired to try the tubular webbing on SitDrag. I think it will be more streamlined than the 8mm rope I have now. I understand the knot argument too, but I think I too will be stitching.
 
Good talk. Inspired to try the tubular webbing on SitDrag. I think it will be more streamlined than the 8mm rope I have now. I understand the knot argument too, but I think I too will be stitching.

Webbing is nice but only saves on bulk versus climbing rope. As long as it’s tied or stitched properly it should be every bit as safe.

I stitched up a fixed webbing bridge with loops on both ends. I girth hitched one end to bridge loop and put a biner on the other end so it’s removeable like the stock kestrel setup. Spliced amsteel is probably stronger but pretty much a wash as far as bulk goes versus 1” webbing.


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from what ive been reading the webbing does not slide as well as the amsteel
I've used both now. I'll agree that amsteel slides easier, but it's kind of like the difference between a .308 and a 30-06; mostly academic.

We'll see if the new wears off, but to me webbing wins because it's more readily available in a wider array of colors ('cause fashion), cheaper, and simpler to tie than to splice. Weight is a wash, function is a wash, strength is an academic difference.
 
its been a minute since I've tied them with webbing. I'd tie one end loose, see how much you need, then untie, cut your webbing to the right length then tie them both. I'd cut it a few inches long just in case - can always trim later.

tying the knots will put you at about 75% of MBS(4000lbs - ish) of the webbing with a single strand, and 150% with continuous loop.

Good info


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If tying a water knot would you stitch the tails down? By continuous loop are you meaning the bridge qould techincally be two pieces since it would loop through the handles on your saddle?
 
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