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NY Saddle Hunters DRT method

NORKALNIMROD

NORKALNIMROD

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2019
Messages
47
I want to thank all of the members here at saddlehunter for sharing your expertise so freely. I am a true greenhorn to this style of hunting and have only a little experience in regard to hunting from tree stands. Years ago I saw a product advertised in Traditional Bowhunter called the “Sneeky Sack”. I wanted to get one but never did. Fast forward about 30 years when I recently watched a YouTube video where a guy was saddle hunting. Well this time I dug into it and discovered this site.
So, I have been playing with making crude fleece saddles, playing with different methods of climbing and having fun with it.
While elk hunting this year one of my buddies showed me the NY guys DRT video.
Well it took me a while to get the hang of it but man for where I live and hunt this is truly awesome! I made four climbs today and can’t wait to do more.
I am tying in with an Alpine Butterfly loop then using the tag end to form the Blake’s Hitch. I am also tying the line back above my loop so it automatically slides the hitch as I climb. Too cool!
Anyhow, sorry about the long read, I just really wanted to say thanks!

Norkal
 
A DdRT (DRT is a different system) system is a dead simple way to climb. Everybody gets excited about SRT with all of it's associated gadgetry and for good reason, it does have a lot of advantages. But generations of tree workers got by pretty well with nothing more than a rope and a tautline hitch.
 
I just watched one from 2 guys in NY doing the DRT method. Not sure if it was the same as you watched but I really liked the tip about setting loops out into trees in the preseason so you would not be trying to through a line in the dark which is something I had been wondering about.

Thanks for mentioning about the video even if we did not watch the same one.
 
I recently made the switch as well because of their videos. I’m 54, why didn’t I know about this when I was 30 something???

I have been watching a ton of arborist videos about this system. There are a ton of variations but most require more gear.
 
brydan said:
A DdRT (DRT is a different system) system is a dead simple way to climb. Everybody gets excited about SRT with all of it's associated gadgetry and for good reason, it does have a lot of advantages. But generations of tree workers got by pretty well with nothing more than a rope and a tautline hitch.
Click to expand...
Maybe you could tell us the difference. You know, for those of us that are not experts. :grinning:
 
My guess is information and experience is much easier to share now than when we were 30. I am 57 and definitely wish I had known a lot of what I know (or think I know) now back then!

Norkal
 
Pretty sure I’m familiar with the method you’re all talking about but it would be helpful for anyone who isn’t (and myself to know for sure) if someone could link the video of the method.
 
bj139 said:
Maybe you could tell us the difference
Click to expand...

DRT (double rope technique) in Arboriculture anyway typically refers to using two separate climbing systems that attach to the saddle. It's used in more complicated work positioning situations where the climber wants to be attached from 2 different points, not something that would be used in hunting.

DdRT refers to the system shown in the video where where the rope is doubled over the branch with one leg of the rope attached to the climber and the other friction hitch. It doesn't really matter to me what people call it but with so many here doing searches for equipment and techniques it helps to find stuff with the right search terms
 
That’s the video.
I am looking into climbing ropes. Checked with Wespur yesterday. They said they are expecting more of the Samson Predator line in a week or so.
If you guys have some advice on ropes I would appreciate the input.

Norkal
 
Tried this yesterday with my LW seat for climbing. I like to rappel down at the end of a hunt and have had problems getting my rope down on rough bark trees using SRT. That problem was eliminated with DRT and was just as easy to climb.
 
Can someone who has used the Predator rope from Wesspur please comment on the abrasion noticed in the line after multiple uses? Ive been trying to research the best rope to use for the Ddrt system, utilizing a natural crotch, and all the research suggests using 16 strand rope instead of 24 strand. Apparently the smaller strands of the 24 wear out quicker than the larger strands of the 16 when you are not using a friction saver and just throwing the line over natural crotches like limbs the tree. I also, understand that the strength integrity of the 16 strand comes almost entirely from the outside jacket, or the actual 16 strands, and the inner core is just for shape support of the rope. This allows you to inspect the line easier because you pay most attention to what you can see on the outside of the rope. I understand that the 24 stand is smoother, smaller in diameter and seems to work better with mechanical devices and or friction hitches. However, arnt most of us hunters using the bear minimum approach and using tge blake’s hitch with a closed Ddrt system? And just throwing the rope over limbs and other natural crotches? Other than the obvious camo color, why is the 24 strand Predator line the preferred choice. Besides, if you’re way up in a tree are you really concerned about the color? Its not that im against the Predator, im just looking for the best advice.Thanks
 
I haven't used 24 strand ropes over natural crotches too much so I can't really comment from direct experience on that. By the time they came around I was almost always running ropes over hardware but 16 strand ropes will run a very long time over natural crotches. Even a very active hunter in a season would probably only equate to maybe a week or two's worth of wear that a professional climber would put on it and they'll run ropes for a couple years even though it's recommended to replace them every year.

If you can post a pic that would help. Some fuzz on a rope is perfectly normal especially being run over natural crotches. For what it's worth, I think other than some pics of amsteel bridges, I rarely see pics on a hunting forum of rope that looks broken in let alone worn out so I can see it being tough to gauge the realistic wear of a rope in hand with pics online.
 
I've never used a conduit friction saver but they're fairly popular and I think would be a good choice for hunters if wanting to cut down friction and/or damage to the tree. Lightweight, quiet (I would think), and inexpensive, good combo for hunters.

Edit...the link to the conduit didn't quite look right from what I've seen of the Dan House device and other DIY projects. Did a quick search and I think this is the conduit that's often used. Makes sense to me with the metal liner that would be good for resisting wear from the rope. https://flexiblewiringconduits.anac...duit-liquid-tight-flexible-metal-conduit-lfmc
 
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brydan said:
I've never used a conduit friction saver but they're fairly popular and I think would be a good choice for hunters if wanting to cut down friction and/or damage to the tree. Lightweight, quiet (I would think), and inexpensive, good combo for hunters.
Click to expand...
This is all plastic conduit, not the steel lined plastic tube that is typically used as a friction saver. I have had trouble recovering ropes when using SRT when the rope gets jammed down into a V-shaped crotch and thought this might help when using DdRT in such a crotch. It is certainly cheap enough to try. They didn't have any steel lined conduit at the store.
 
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