Boudreaux said:Team 4 will take 12 more points! Not the biggest antlered deer ever, but my biggest and most importantly a mature deer. My blood trailing dog Grizzly made short work of this trail.
Thanks,
Boswell
Vorsteg said:First deer of the year...quite small. Around 9:30 yesterday morning, 3 deer came bounding in my direction. One ran off; one past me to the field behind me; and this one stopped below me to my right. I eased my Excalibur Vortex off the turkey hook on my left, crossed the bridge and took aim on my right with a left hand shot as I swiveled my hips to the right at she was almost below me. She began to trot to my left so I had to reposition, re-cross the bridge, and re-aim to the left after switching for a right hand shot. My arrow hit on her back, exiting the chest and hitting her front right leg on its way back to earth. I picked up the trail approximately 40 yards away, where I last saw her standing. She piled up in some thickets 40 yards from where I first found blood.
My wife was sad that shot such a small deer (said that my saddle was as big as the deer). To me, that's meat for the hungry. I donated this deer to FHFH.org. I will keep 1 per year and the rest go to FHFH.
John Eberhart said:I've been hunting from harness style systems exclusively since 1981 and this system is far and away the most comfortable (not even close). The cool thing about the sling style seat is that you can make the seat section as wide as you want at any moment as the 2 parts of the seat are separate and can be adjusted. The hook-up is also key, not only for mine but for any type of harness system.
The saddle company used to show a really high hook-up in their set-up DVD and I tried to get then to change it but they didn't want to spend the money. If I had no option but to use the old saddle the way they showed it in the DVD, I wouldn't use it because it makes your upper body too upright and uncomfortable.
A head height hook-up aids dramatically in comfort vs. an arms reach hook-up. The higher you hook-up the more upright your body has to be. The more straight down you are from hook-up, the more upright your upper body has to be and also the lead strap has to be dealt with when drawing your bow on a deer directly to the side as the lead is in the way of your elbow during the drawing process. With a head height hook-up the lead comes to your waist at about a 45 degree angle and when you draw on a deer to the left side (if right handed) your elbow will not come close to the lead as the lead is lower. With the low hook-up your upper body can lean forward as the lead is not in your face as it is with a high hook-up. With the low hook-up you can lean forward onto the lead, wrap your arms around it, and nap if you want. No way with a high hook-up. Also much more comfortable.
Will say this, if in a large tree (with mine there are no diameter restrictions) the lead needs to be a bit higher so you can move farther around the tree and have the necessary lead to do so. When I'm stepping the ring at the top on a large tree I also screw in the stepsons r going around the tree about an inch to an inch and a half higher per step. When going around a large tree the lead wraps as you go and forces your body up and the steps have to adjust for the raise.
Boudreaux said:Team 4 will take 12 more points! Not the biggest antlered deer ever, but my biggest and most importantly a mature deer. My blood trailing dog Grizzly made short work of this trail.
Thanks,
Boswell
John Eberhart said:Waymore
The original treesling by Anderson was green and when Big Bucks bought them out they changed the color to brown. What I di was cut off the lead in its entirety and left the pull strap which basically does nothing other than allow me to tighten it around my waist while climbing the tree. I took a saddle lead strap and cut off the hook end below the double fall arrest loops. I then cut off about 30 inches of the lead strap and had the center 18 inches triple folded over and stitched. This left about 6 inches of flat webbing on each side of the folded over and stitched strap. Each flat side of that section of strap was put through the oval rubber coated loops on either end and stitched back to itself once through. Basically forming a skinny bridge strap that the lead could slide along once it was permanently attached. The most difficult part was figuring out how to permanently affix the lead strap over the bridge strap and still have 8 inches of drape adjustment. You can tell from the picture how that was done using the existing adjustment buckle from the saddle lead. Once the drape adjustment was installed and sewn together I had the remainder of the lead triple folded and stitched and then had it looped over on the very end so that it could go around a T or spike.
I would never suggest anyone do this as it might be a bit unsafe, but that's what I did.
Nice!Boudreaux said:Just got this picture from fellow Team 4 member Sparrowhawk