Paper tuning question

[gameflogger]

 

[Bowmanmike]

I had a nock right problem for a while and strangely enough i had to move my rest right to fix it. Now i can shoot bareshafts out to 30 yds no problem and fieldpoints and broadheads have the same POI.
Everywhere i looked said to move the rest left,but it only made things worse.
Try moving the rest in the opposite direction and see whst happens,you can always put it back.

 

[Hunter260]

I had a nock right problem for a while and strangely enough i had to move my rest right to fix it. Now i can shoot bareshafts out to 30 yds no problem and fieldpoints and broadheads have the same POI.
Everywhere i looked said to move the rest left,but it only made things worse.
Try moving the rest in the opposite direction and see whst happens,you can always put it back.

What spine arrows were you shooting? With how much up front and what’s your bow setup?

 

[floydfreak]

Okay. Help me out here. Paper tuned at about 10 feet. Went to 20 yards out side on the target. Still bare shaft. I can see a left tail whip on everything. I'm sure a large part of it is me. I settled it down some, but my rest is all the way over now. Should I stick with what the paper tune said? Or go with the 20yards hitting square to me on the block.
I went back through my weights again and different sizes. All doing the same thing. It's a diamond single cam. So don't think I can do much with cam lean? Tried adjusting my yoke cables. But didn't change much.
I would try a side and bigger stabilizer. But put enough cash into hunting this year.
Thoughts. Paper or 20yrd tune? Or back to the crossbow. I got plenty of weight. Just trying to make sure I have good arrow flight.

I'm no expert as I am also just diving into this but your problem might be the arrow its self. Not looking to start a heavy arrow vs. light arrow debate here lol but if your spine is flexing too much that could cause weird tears that aren't easily fixed by adjusting your rest and your form.

Once again, not an expert.

 

[Bowmanmike]

What spine arrows were you shooting? With how much up front and what’s your bow setup?

I had the problem with two different arrow setups. One was super light,400 spine with 100 gr tip and standard insert. The current one is 300 spine with 200 gr up front.
My bow is a matthews halon x at 60# and 29.5" DL.
I did change my grip some and the DL was way to short when i shot the light arrows.

 

[Hunter260]

I had the problem with two different arrow setups. One was super light,400 spine with 100 gr tip and standard insert. The current one is 300 spine with 200 gr up front.
My bow is a matthews halon x at 60# and 29.5" DL.
I did change my grip some and the DL was way to short when i shot the light arrows.

I had the same problem for a while and had to back my bow down a few pounds to get it to tune. I’d take good arrow flight over a couple more pounds of kinetic energy every day though

 

[Bowmanmike]

I had the same problem for a while and had to back my bow down a few pounds to get it to tune. I’d take good arrow flight over a couple more pounds of kinetic energy every day though

My problem was the DL was to short before and i had to really break my wrist to make that work. So i got a lot of low hand contact with the grip.
It is better now.

 

[MattMan81]

This is my heavy build. There 300s. I got 400gr up front.. so total I'm around 685ish. I took the 250s from the RF kit and it still did it. I went up and down with the weights again just to see. But still looks like half way through flight there tail kicking left. They looked good once they are in the foam. Pointed right back where I was standing. The paper tune at 10' was good before I went to the target. So not sure why it destabilize in the middle. So should I paper tune it at 10' again and Fletch them, or go with the 20yrd bare shaft grouping. The paper tune was rest in the center. The 20 yrd is all the way to the left ...

 

[MattMan81]

I think it's just me and bow. If I extend my DL I slap my arm all the time. Bad arrow flight. I drop the DL some, cranked it down a few, and had good paper shoots. Loose grip. The bow just wants to twist.

 

[Bowmanmike]

This is my heavy build. There 300s. I got 400gr up front.. so total I'm around 685ish. I took the 250s from the RF kit and it still did it. I went up and down with the weights again just to see. But still looks like half way through flight there tail kicking left. They looked good once they are in the foam. Pointed right back where I was standing. The paper tune at 10' was good before I went to the target. So not sure why it destabilize in the middle. So should I paper tune it at 10' again and Fletch them, or go with the 20yrd bare shaft grouping. The paper tune was rest in the center. The 20 yrd is all the way to the left ...

The 300 spine seems to soft of a spine with 400 gr up front,unless you only shoot 35# draw weight.
Also,with 400 gr up front your point may pull the shaft after it straightening it out and that could be why the arrows hit the target square. I think in that case i would pay more attention to the paper.

 

[Redhorse3e351]

I have grown to love Modified French Tuning vs. paper tune or walk back tuning. Some videos out there on it and it is discussed in the "Nuts and Bolts of Archery". It is extremely efficient and saves chasing alot of arrows that miss. Also saves a ton of time getting set up. I highly suggest anyone give it a try you will be amazed at how quick and simple it is.

 

[JBDaddy]

You're not going to hunt with bare shafts. Don't obsess. They're a tool to get your bow and arrow setups in the ballpark of best efficiency and accuracy, and identify a weight that shoots better than others.

I also have a Diamond single cam, seeing the same thing you are from it. I got bullet holes at 6ft and 15y, goofy tears everywhere else.

I fletched* arrows and naturally they fly even better than the bare shafts did, and they're hitting with good enough accuracy that I'm confident I'll kill deer inside 30y. Better than last year, anyway. I'll bow shop next year.

*Zinger fletches are great for this, you can take them back off, move them, etc. Highly recommend.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[raisins]

I had a nock right problem for a while and strangely enough i had to move my rest right to fix it. Now i can shoot bareshafts out to 30 yds no problem and fieldpoints and broadheads have the same POI.
Everywhere i looked said to move the rest left,but it only made things worse.
Try moving the rest in the opposite direction and see whst happens,you can always put it back.

For me, persistent left-right tear issues (or non-intuitive results) were usually due to grip torque, followed by cam lean, followed by interference with the cable or rest hitting the arrow/fletch.

 

[raisins]

The shop I go to always has me paper tune at about 5ft and that’s it, and I’ve seen a lot of guys online talk about walk back tuning. I picked up my new Mathews today and since there was only one bow tech (the owner) he let me set my bow up while he helped the hoard of guys wanting string and cable overhauls 2 weeks before the season comes in. Since I was rushed on time, I set it all up and got bullet holes with fletched arrows at 8ft. Should I go back and paper tune closer and further away?

This close to season, and if you haven't been tuning your own stuff for years, I'd check it but call it good if your broadheads fly the way you'd like at your hunting distance.

If you get into tuning your own stuff (you'll probably end up doing a better job than a randomly selected bow shop guy), then you'll want to go down the rabbit hole.