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phantom clone help needed

archery_enthusiast

archery_enthusiast

New Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2021
Messages
31
I'm in the process of DIY'ing a phantom clone and would like information concerning measuring. it appears that it is rather wide compared to its depth and that both curves are symmetrical, not like some other saddles that look like the top curve may be slightly more straight than the bottom? you guys that did it before, how did you measure or is it the "one size fits all" like tethrd advertises? any help is greatly appreciated!!
 
I followed this design when I built my last saddle and it came out great. Only thing I would add to this would be to use a strip of 1" webbing laid flat and sewn across the outer edges of the pleats. This gives much needed support at this area.

I also did this with my bridge loops and lineman loops to make them firm and make the lineman loops stay open for easy access.
After I ran my webbing through the hollow 1" webbing I took a piece of 1" flat webbing and laid on the inside of the loop. I then sewed this piece only coming in about 1/8 inch from each edge along the length and sewed across one end with triple stitching. Then I took a piece of 1/4" zip tie and cut it to length that would allow it to be slid inside the hollow webbing until it hit the other end where it was sewed across but allow it to go into the hollow webbing enough to allow sewing across the end. I used an unsharpened pencil to poke the last of the zip tie inside the 1" webbing.

Having a firm bridge loop like this allows you to do some sort of adjustable bridge attachment like the triad bridge and have it bite and stay put but allow easy one hand adjustment.

I made my version of a triad bridge using 6mm Sterling hitched to the loops then to 8mm Sterling as my bridge. Works great and being able to adjust on the bridge loop where and the amount of the pulling pressure of the top or bottom of the saddle 2" webbing is a god send for comfort.

I did not add leg straps on my saddle. I see no need in my case for them. I used a Raptor style buckle on a 1 1/2" wide webbing belt sewn all the way around on the inside of the saddle attached to the top 2" webbing strap of the saddle. With this belt tightened around my waste the saddle stays put on me without sagging for walking in and with the belt around my waste while climbing in the event of a fall it will hold me.

I used some heavy black ballistic nylon fabric for my main saddle but I also sewed some camo Gortex fabric on the outside top and bottom panel.

Good luck and have fun.
 
rich said:
I followed this design when I built my last saddle and it came out great. Only thing I would add to this would be to use a strip of 1" webbing laid flat and sewn across the outer edges of the pleats. This gives much needed support at this area.

I also did this with my bridge loops and lineman loops to make them firm and make the lineman loops stay open for easy access.
After I ran my webbing through the hollow 1" webbing I took a piece of 1" flat webbing and laid on the inside of the loop. I then sewed this piece only coming in about 1/8 inch from each edge along the length and sewed across one end with triple stitching. Then I took a piece of 1/4" zip tie and cut it to length that would allow it to be slid inside the hollow webbing until it hit the other end where it was sewed across but allow it to go into the hollow webbing enough to allow sewing across the end. I used an unsharpened pencil to poke the last of the zip tie inside the 1" webbing.

Having a firm bridge loop like this allows you to do some sort of adjustable bridge attachment like the triad bridge and have it bite and stay put but allow easy one hand adjustment.

I made my version of a triad bridge using 6mm Sterling hitched to the loops then to 8mm Sterling as my bridge. Works great and being able to adjust on the bridge loop where and the amount of the pulling pressure of the top or bottom of the saddle 2" webbing is a god send for comfort.

I did not add leg straps on my saddle. I see no need in my case for them. I used a Raptor style buckle on a 1 1/2" wide webbing belt sewn all the way around on the inside of the saddle attached to the top 2" webbing strap of the saddle. With this belt tightened around my waste the saddle stays put on me without sagging for walking in and with the belt around my waste while climbing in the event of a fall it will hold me.

I used some heavy black ballistic nylon fabric for my main saddle but I also sewed some camo Gortex fabric on the outside top and bottom panel.

Good luck and have fun.
Click to expand...
Could not agreee more regarding the 1" webbing support to the pleat edge. That is discussed at minute 4:12 in the linked video:
 
great information. is a pleat recommended? I'm using cordura so the pleat should be easy to manage...if thats the way to go
 
"great information. is a pleat recommended? I'm using cordura so the pleat should be easy to manage...if thats the way to go "

Absolutely in my opinion. You can adjust how much seat you want where. Opened fully and pulled longer on your thighs for sitting is like sitting in a hammock. If just leaning you can pull more up above the waste if you want for more back support. For walking in keep it closed and tighten the waist belt and it fits tight against your butt and does not sag for comfort walking. Your cordura which is actually I guess what I used will work fine.

I did not catch the part about the webbing strip at minute 4:12 of video 3. I only watched carefully number 2. On my first trial sit from a pole in the basement I heard threads braking. Checked this area and found that where I had sewed the edge binding in this area it did not catch enough of the main body piece. I went back and fixed it with the webbing and some triple stitching. Solid as a rock now.
 
" any other tips "

GET A SEWING MACHINE. Ask around your family and friends. I would bet that somebody has a machine sitting around that they would let you use. It may not be "heavy duty" but if it sews a straight stich and will at least sew through one piece of webbing and your cordura you will be WAAAAAY ahead. Using the correct needle and keeping a sharp one in the machine is the secrete to sewing heavy stuff.

If you will be using the thread injector then you better get started today and you MAY get your saddle done by next deer season. LOL
Good luck.
 
rich said:
" any other tips "

GET A SEWING MACHINE. Ask around your family and friends. I would bet that somebody has a machine sitting around that they would let you use. It may not be "heavy duty" but if it sews a straight stich and will at least sew through one piece of webbing and your cordura you will be WAAAAAY ahead. Using the correct needle and keeping a sharp one in the machine is the secrete to sewing heavy stuff.

If you will be using the thread injector then you better get started today and you MAY get your saddle done by next deer season. LOL
Good luck.
Click to expand...

OK, sorry for the misunderstanding. I meant sewing machine when i said thread injector. If I had to use a speedy stitcher I don't think I would do it at all LOL!!! Yes, thankfully I have a machine available!
thanks for the helpful tips!
 
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