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Picking my first recurve/trad bow

NikoTheBowHunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2018
Messages
564
Location
Cottage Grove, WI
As the title says, looking to dive into the world of recurve/traditional bows. The GF wants to learn to shoot a bow and I’ve always wanted to try shooting a recurve so figure no better time than now. Without breaking the bank (under $200 incase we both hate it) what would be a good starter bow that allows for upgrading the limbs down the road should we feel he need? Based on what I’ve read so far we should start with something in the 20-25lbs range then as form /strength improves move up in poundage. This would primarily be used for target shooting, possible 3D shoots at some point. I have no preference as to metal or wood. Thanks
 
Following. I was passed down a recurve from my Dad, his first bow, (Bear Kodiak #50) and believe I am over-bowed as I've gotten to shoot it more. I'm super interested in a longbow and looking forward to the responses.
 
Any ILF (International Limb Fit) bow will allow mixing and matching of limbs and handles. There was no such thing as ILF when I started trad. I went from a hand-me-down Bear Kodiak Special to custom bows which can be pricey.
But for a starter bow, a LOT of guys like
a Samick Sage. And nothing says the Sage has to be just a starter bow.
 
I agree with the Samick Sage. Heck, I'm buying one for my daughter who only shoots one weekend a year. Myself, I wouldn't start with anything less than 40-45#. Most guys can easily hand that weight range and maintain good shooting form and you can hunt with it. Switch out the Dacron string with a low stretch string like Fast Flite. That really wakes the bow up. I've got a Robertson Stykbow but last year hunted with a Samick Sage I purchased off of Craigslist. They really are great bows and very affordable. There's lots of limbs available in a lot of weight ranges.
 
I agree with the Samick also. I bought my son a Samick youth bow last year and it's a good bow for the money. I also agree that you should be able to start with 40lbs pretty easy. If your GF's never shot a bow you might want to start her with a little less weight, maybe 30lbs or so. My son is a scrawny 10 yr old and he pulls his 20lb limbs with ease and could probably handle 30lbs.
 
If you want new then get a Samick Sage or a fleetwood. For the money I would buy a vintage bow. You can buy so much cooler, old bows for the money. The downside is knowing what to look for to make sure it’s still in good shape.
 
I got a Samick Sage 40# and no regrets. I'm new and am hunting turkeys with it now and will be hunting deer next fall. Do it, it's a blast. I did put the fast flight on it and it made it a whole different bow. I'm a 27 inch draw so it's smooth to the anchor for me. If you have a longer draw it's said to stack some.
 
x4 on the Samick Sage. I went with the Southwest Archery Spyder. The same people who originally made the Sage went on to make the Spyder (basically the Sage, just upgraded). It has a little nicer finish/feel with all the good parts of the Sage: interchangeable limbs (will accept Sage limbs also), price and quality. I am moving into longbows but I still like the way this bow shoots.
 
As the title says, looking to dive into the world of recurve/traditional bows. The GF wants to learn to shoot a bow and I’ve always wanted to try shooting a recurve so figure no better time than now. Without breaking the bank (under $200 incase we both hate it) what would be a good starter bow that allows for upgrading the limbs down the road should we feel he need? Based on what I’ve read so far we should start with something in the 20-25lbs range then as form /strength improves move up in poundage. This would primarily be used for target shooting, possible 3D shoots at some point. I have no preference as to metal or wood. Thanks
Glad you asked this cuz i'm curious about trads as well. As far as purchasing a vintage bow, any of you long beards recommend a good you tube video that outlines what to look for?
 
There is a bow I have said would be THE bow I would start someone out with. I'm not sure about getting more limbs for it but it is such a great shooting bow.
It is a Spitfire from Twig archery.
$225 to your door.
I will say this, in my opinion it is about the best bow you can buy for the money.
I bought one just to try and was so surprised. I draw 29.5 and it did feel like I was a little into the stack.
Also it had less performance than my super curves. That is what makes it such a good beginner bow, it hits what you point at 20 to 25 yards.
It's not a racehorse and it's not junk.
A set of max6 or border limbs are $850.
They are highly efficient, no comparison to many bows.
If nothing else get the GF a Spitfire and my money is on you will find yourself shooting it.. well.
I took mine to the club to let people try it and offer to sell it.
The first three guys shoot it but no offer.
I saw a friend and called her over.
She has money and owns several other bows.
As she stepped forward to begin shooting one of the guys said he would take it.
She never shot so well and came up to me and said she wants the bow.
I told her it had just sold.
Her boyfriend and the other guy are best drinking buddies and she tells him about it, he comes over and offers to pay whatever. She wants the bow.
He sold it to her. It is her favorite bow and she owns more expensive bows.
I swear.
 
The Sage is a good option but it is very ugly in my opinion. I like the black hunter much better. It can be ordered as a longbow or recurve. It is sold as the galaxy ember from Lancaster archery for about $200. I've bought two of them direct from China on ebay for $80. That is the way to go if you are patient enough to wait a month or so to get it. The bow shoots very nice and is well made. I've never seen a bad review on the bow. You can order extra limbs for about $70. The only thing is if you order from China the draw weights are often. 2 to 3 lbs off.

 
The Sage is a good option but it is very ugly in my opinion. I like the black hunter much better. It can be ordered as a longbow or recurve. It is sold as the galaxy ember from Lancaster archery for about $200. I've bought two of them direct from China on ebay for $80. That is the way to go if you are patient enough to wait a month or so to get it. The bow shoots very nice and is well made. I've never seen a bad review on the bow. You can order extra limbs for about $70. The only thing is if you order from China the draw weights are often. 2 to 3 lbs off.

That bow god damn gorgeous!!! And for $80 I have no problem waiting a month or so to save over half on cost. Thanks for the input.
 
Got another question for you trad shooters. Why are trad bows shot at an angle (not vertically up/down) were as compound bows are shot vertically with no tilt? Is it just to keep the arrow from coming off the shelf? From the YouTube videos I’ve seen they all seem to be shooting with a slit tilt to the bow.
 
Got another question for you trad shooters. Why are trad bows shot at an angle (not vertically up/down) were as compound bows are shot vertically with no tilt? Is it just to keep the arrow from coming off the shelf? From the YouTube videos I’ve seen they all seem to be shooting with a slit tilt to the bow.
As far as I know that is exactly why. Although, I tend to shoot more vertically. Maybe it's because I'm switching over from a compound and I like to look "through" the string and over the arrow if that makes sense.
 
Got another question for you trad shooters. Why are trad bows shot at an angle (not vertically up/down) were as compound bows are shot vertically with no tilt? Is it just to keep the arrow from coming off the shelf? From the YouTube videos I’ve seen they all seem to be shooting with a slit tilt to the bow.
Its called "canting" the bow and the idea is that it puts the arrow more in line with the eye.
I shoot my recurve vertical because it is a more tree friendly position. There is less chance of the bow limbs a vertical bow making contact with the tree when shot vertical.
With proper form, the bow doesnt need canted to keep the arrow on the shelf.

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What arrow/fletching does everyone use?
Any arrow materiel will work, wood, bamboo, fiberglass, aluminum, or carbon.
I like tapered carbon the best.

Any trad bow shot off the shelf (no elevated rest) requires feathers, no vanes.
4 or 5 inch feathers work.
I shoot 3, five inch, right wing feathers.
Dr Ed Ashby has done extensive testing of arrow lethality for over 30 years.
He has developed his own style of fletch that he calls A&A. I'm in the early stages of shooting A&A.


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I guess this is as good as anyplace to ask...
Have any of you trad shooters tried shooting their 3 fletch with the cock feather at 12 o'clock? I've just started trying that.
For 50 years, I've always been told that the cock feather should be 9 o'clock (for right handed bows). It was like an unwritten law. But my buddy read in his Black Widow book to shoot it at 12. Wow, it made a huge improvement in my arrow flight.

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