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Possibles bags and other outdoor leather works

MNFarmHunter

MNFarmHunter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2021
Messages
1,898
Location
Minnesota
My winter hobby this year is to get back into leather working. I've made different types of holsters in the past and am focusing on more traditional items like possibles bags, "cows knee" lock covers, etc.

In terms of protecting the leather long term and from the weather, the traditional method is mink oil but am wondering if Snoseal might be a better option. It is more durable long term as the wax soaks into the leather and won't evaporate with time like natural oils. It also remains supple and doesn't make leather brittle.

I use it on all my leather boots for this reason and wonder if anyone else has used this on their leather works?
 
MNFarmHunter said:
My winter hobby this year is to get back into leather working. I've made different types of holsters in the past and am focusing on more traditional items like possibles bags, "cows knee" lock covers, etc.

In terms of protecting the leather long term and from the weather, the traditional method is mink oil but am wondering if Snoseal might be a better option. It is more durable long term as the wax soaks into the leather and won't evaporate with time like natural oils. It also remains supple and doesn't make leather brittle.

I use it on all my leather boots for this reason and wonder if anyone else has used this on their leather works?
Click to expand...
I like Nikwax for my leather skii mits as well as my leather hiking boots and other leather outdoor gear. Might be worth a try.
 
MNFarmHunter said:
My winter hobby this year is to get back into leather working. I've made different types of holsters in the past and am focusing on more traditional items like possibles bags, "cows knee" lock covers, etc.

In terms of protecting the leather long term and from the weather, the traditional method is mink oil but am wondering if Snoseal might be a better option. It is more durable long term as the wax soaks into the leather and won't evaporate with time like natural oils. It also remains supple and doesn't make leather brittle.

I use it on all my leather boots for this reason and wonder if anyone else has used this on their leather works?
Click to expand...
I've used it for yrs on my leather bags, lock cover , etc. This one has a lot of yrs on it and needs resealed.Resized_20221129_155838_8882.jpegResized_20221129_155838_8882.jpegResized_20221129_155838_8882.jpeg
 
Very nice!

I was thinking about making a ball pouch like yours but ended up making a 8mil thick leather loading block instead. Holds tight with or without patches and doesn't look terrible. Now that I know what I'm doing with that one, I'll make another when I get my leather and dye it the same color as my bag...once I make that.

With the remaining scraps I had lying around, I did make a small cows knee for my caplock. I did Snoseal it using a toaster oven which worked well.

Overall, the leatherworking came back to me quickly and even remembered to pre-Band-Aid my fingers as a double needle stitch.
 
Prototype lock hood.

Instead of tying near the front (like pictured), V2 will be tied closer to the middle.

To use, simply slide forward and to the side vs untying and removing.
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MNFarmHunter said:
My winter hobby this year is to get back into leather working. I've made different types of holsters in the past and am focusing on more traditional items like possibles bags, "cows knee" lock covers, etc.

In terms of protecting the leather long term and from the weather, the traditional method is mink oil but am wondering if Snoseal might be a better option. It is more durable long term as the wax soaks into the leather and won't evaporate with time like natural oils. It also remains supple and doesn't make leather brittle.

I use it on all my leather boots for this reason and wonder if anyone else has used this on their leather works?
Click to expand...
All of my leather is treated with snowseal. It's hands down the best if it's done right, meaning you truly keeping applying until the leather literally does not soak anymore up. My FL slings, frizzen covers, cows knees, possiibles bags, everything is snowsealed.
 
I’ve been using snoseal on my leather boots for years. I think it is an excellent product and will not go rancid potentially like mink oil can.
 
I really like Obenaufs Heavy Duty LP over the rest. It seems to last longer and really keeps the leather hydrated without being greasy.

I also use it as a cold weather patch lube in my flintlocks.

Purty good stuff IMO
 
Growing up snoseal is all I ever saw my dad use on his pack boots and leather gloves. He was a north slope/prudoe bay worker and had to depend on his boots and gloves. He swore by the stuff. I believe he uses mink oil for his saddles(horses).
 
Zero One Actual said:
How do you have such high res photography from the 1890’s?
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I had one of the first cell phones, I believe about 1864. I carry a ball block for hunting or for fighting the Blackfeet but for competition or a woods walk, I like a ball bag w/extras. The small pouch is sewn to my shoulder strap to hold greased patches.Resized_20221201_065117_3109.jpegResized_20221201_065523_7346.jpeg
 
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Small Hawkens possibles bag I’ll be sewing tomorrow. Needs one more coat of stain on the pouch then stain the strap.

Tandy wanted $30 for a single length strap or $19 for a 56” end piece that was 6” wide at the narrowest. Guess which one I did…
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The top piece has been dyed mahogany using an alcohol dye. The bottom was dyed the same way but was then heated in a toaster over and had sloseal applied.

The bottom piece is far softer and the photo doesn’t do the color justice.

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Still need to sew the top flap tomorrow and adjust the gap in the screw rivets but it’s basically done.

It’s small but period correct for it’s purposes. It has plenty of room for shooting supplies and nothing more.
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Here’s todays projects.

The possibles bag I made yesterday fits everything but is small and doesn’t have any extra room so I cut and stained new pieces today which are 1.5” wider and deeper which should land nicely between a small and full sized bag.

I then made a horizontal tourniquet belt carrier. I currently carry mine horizontally with a spandex tube I sewed awhile back but wanted something nicer.

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MNFarmHunter said:
My winter hobby this year is to get back into leather working. I've made different types of holsters in the past and am focusing on more traditional items like possibles bags, "cows knee" lock covers, etc.

In terms of protecting the leather long term and from the weather, the traditional method is mink oil but am wondering if Snoseal might be a better option. It is more durable long term as the wax soaks into the leather and won't evaporate with time like natural oils. It also remains supple and doesn't make leather brittle.

I use it on all my leather boots for this reason and wonder if anyone else has used this on their leather works?
Click to expand...
I like flemmings saddle soap or neets sop it on set by stove ,sop it on again treats it good ,
 
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