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Rapell rope pulldown problems

A

Arrowhead1

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SH Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2022
Messages
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I use C-IV for a rappel rope with a quick link along with Flexi Tether Locker. Also use Dyna glide for pull down rope. I have the hardest time getting my rappel rope to drop. I tried several different angles and I even carry a small saw that I wrap the Dynamic glide around to get a good yank. Its frustrating in the dark when it doesn't work smoothly. Anyone have any suggestions
 
I'm no expert by any means and basically left rappelling alone for basically what you describe, but I have seen people advocate for standing out away from the tree and getting an angle closer to 45 degrees to get the rope to come loose. Hope this helps. Maybe someone with more experience will be along shortly.
 
I’ve been rappelling down for 3 years now and only had problems 3 times. All 3 were issues with branches getting stuck in crotch of tree and branch. I also always loosen knots and shift it slightly before heading down. The further away from tree before trying to pull helps also!
 
What they all said. Also, once the rope starts to slide don’t give it any slack. Just keep pulling.

Where you attach the pulldown rope makes a difference. I just typed this in another thread actually. Some guys attach to the quick link. Some right behind the scaffold knot for the ql. I am right next to the quick link but all the way around the tree so that the link and first foot of rope don’t move when pulling. I’m pulling the rope through the ql. Then when it clears the ql and last foot of rope pull around the tree. Just have to watch for crotches for the link to catch in.
 
1 thing I have noticed is which direction u wrap ur tether/rappel on the tree causes the rope to rotate around the trunk 1 way or the other as u work it down the tree......if u take ur tether in ur right hand and take it around the tree so ur link/biner is now in ur left hand and the tail end of the rope is in ur right hand the rope will spin toward ur left side as u pull it down and the opposite of u wrap the tree from left to right.....might just be anecdotal knowledge but if there is a knot in the trunk u can kinda plan for it if u know which way ur tether gonna spin. If that knot is directly opposite u on the trunk ur rope has a much higher chance of getting hung up vs if u can plan ahead a little and have ur connection point lined up with the knot.

With trees that have no room to maneuver around the base it can be a pain to get ur rope down if u having to pull straight down in a fixed spot. Pull down in 1 hand and ur rappel in the other and a sawing action combined with maybe a couple whipping actions usually works out good. If u have room to maneuver then step back 10 feet from the base and that makes it easier and if u rotate around the trunk with ur link/biner that helps even more

And 1 more thing is when choosing ur friction hitch u use i recommend learning a hitch that is easy to remember and tie in the woods.....if ur rappel is really being problematic just untie ur hitch and pull the whole length of rope thru ur link/biner and then redo it either at the base of the tree if u continue hunting for that day or retie at the truck or at home if it's the end of the day......I see all this real elaborate knots peeps are using and cringe thinking about tying that knot in the woods/in the dark.

There are exploding knots options but I don't know anything about them to give any useful info...I wanna hunt, not be an arborist/knot guru.
 
If there are no branches to impede the ropes descent, I attach behind QL or to the QL. If branches are in the way on the way down, I attach to carabiner clipped to rope on other side of QL. The rope slides easier through the carabiner and I pull the rope through the QL. Just have to watch for any crotches QL could get caught on as said. Only got stuck once in 2 years of rappelling
 
I keep pushing using the maverick hitch for your rappel rope. I've been using it 2 seasons now and am always impressed by how well it explodes and just drops to the ground- even over limbs! Very easy to tie. I have had it hang up only twice and both times were when Id left a platform and/or sticks up but have since figured out to keep rope and pull down cord to either side of equip on those occassions and no problem since.
 
So I don't hunt on my rappel line, however, I have only had one hiccup getting it out of the tree in 4 years now. First off, I use a steel carabiner (which is heavier AND rated way higher) not a quick link, and just basically clip the tag end thru so just a simple girth around the tree. I clip my pull down right behind, in the same loop, as the 'biner. When at ground level, because the steel 'biner is heftier , I just start pulling my retrieve line (I get away from the tree a little to pull out not straight down) and there arent any issues. Only time I did have a hiccup, I grabbed the tag end, pulled a little and shook it and it worked itself loose.
 
Reason I posted is I had problems last night. Was surrounded by buyers and had to stand close to the tree. What a PIA . it did finally break loose but was a chore. Appreciate all your feedback. I will remember and try some of your suggestions. Thanks
 
@Arrowhead1
I dumped the Quick Link for the Maverick Hitch and it has been the best decision that I've made. :) The JRB Tree Climbing channel on YouTube will show you how easy it is to tie and apply. It is the only way to climb for the simplicity of use and removal. :cool:

I use a non-locking carabiner for pulling it down and it works great.
JRB 12.jpg
This is the Maverick Hitch in it's "locked" position. Notice the tag end going thru the loop.
JRB 20.jpg
 
Before you repel down, reposition the rope around the tree where it’s loose. If you been up in the tree all day on the rope, it’s super cinched around the tree. It’ll come down better after you re loosely re position the rope.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Maverick is great hitch which makes rope retrievable a breeze. That said, it is an exploding hitch so I can’t stress enough to get familiar with locking it out and how to handle it while unlocked before taking it to hunting height.
 
All of the comments above are good tips with a QL. I have only had issues maybe 3 times in 3 years. This season I started using the JRB Maverick my now preferred rappel option. Just remember to lock it when using it and UN-lock it before rappel. Practice it NOT at climbing height see JRB video when he can not release it when he is one foot off the ground. I also started using the Longhorn Agile and Munter hitches instead of mechanical devices.
 
I have had problems consistently enough. Some things that have worked for me. I ditched the dynaglide for amsteel. I think my dynaglide tangled every single time I used it. Then when I finally went to pull down, the diameter of the dynaglide hurt my hand anytime I needed to really bear down. The amsteel has massively solved these issues.

I do hunt from my rapel, so I try to break it before I rapel down. Make sure it's not stuck where the beener has been sitting for hours

Final thing I do is THROW my pull down rope in the direction I plan to pull. Just gets it away from obstructions and makes the pull down easier.

Getting my rope down at the end is the only negative I have with one sticking. I've gotten better over the last year, but it's never full proof.
 
No Pro, just started this season (LOVE IT).
I have a preset paracord, but should still work with the QL.
My pull down is tied behind the ring which allows it to pivot some in the moose hitch and allows the rope less chance to bind
 
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