Rappel rope length?

[Hunter260]

I ordered a 40 foot rope and got a 50 foot rope with spliced loops on both end. Should I leave it as 50 for a rappel rope or cut off 10-11 feet and have a new linesman too? What length do you all use for rappel?

 

[Jtaylor]

Try it at 50 for awhile and if it's too long, cut it down. I like the sewn ends on mine for attaching a S biner and use as a pull up rope for the bow/gear, etc. In certain circumstances when I'm hunting at a lower height, I can attach the rope to itself with the S-biner on the end and use it as it's own pull down rope when done hunting.

 

[bj139]

The spliced loop at the end could get caught in a tree crotch. I would do like @Jtaylor says for now until you decide what works best for you.

 

[hairy chinch bug]

Same as above; but when you Do Decide to cut it into 2 ropes, just heat treat the ends and shrink wrap.
Also be sure to make the longer of the 2 long enough - it adds a level of difficulty to repel when there is a knot part way down.
Speaking of knots - don't forget a stopper knot.
You must have some huge hunting trees there!

 

[KYRanger]

Good idea to try it first like mentioned. But for me, I have mine at 35 feet. I have not needed it longer yet. I can climb 25 feet plus if needed, but I rarely get above 25 feet. At 35 feet, the Canyon ci-v packs well and is pretty light weight. Not much more than Oplux. I don’t think you would need over 40 feet of rope, so I would make me a nice linemans or a tether. The sewn loops are nice. If you have a 4-5” loop, it will make a good regular length tether. If you have the small tight eye loops they work well for your rappel rope (delta or quick link connection point) and lineman’s rope.

Leaving a loop on the lose end of your rappel rope could cause you problems retrieving your rappel rope. As BJ says, it could get caught Or wedged into a limb v or the Y in a split trunk When you are pulling your rope down. Sometimes, when you pull your rappel rope loose, it free falls. Other times you may have to pull your link end of the rope down to you and then you pull the tag end up, over the obstacle and down to you. It’s then that the rope can get wedged. And that sucks when you have to re-climb to retrieve your rope!

 

[Hunter260]

Thanks for the advice, I had another question, when I’m rappelling and have my figure 8 and carabiner clipped to my bridge and auto block clipped to a linesman loop I get a ton of pressure twisting my saddle. It’s uncomfortable to say the least. How do I deal with this?

 

[Jtaylor]

Thanks for the advice, I had another question, when I’m rappelling and have my figure 8 and carabiner clipped to my bridge and auto block clipped to a linesman loop I get a ton of pressure twisting my saddle. It’s uncomfortable to say the least. How do I deal with this?

It seems like there's too much friction on your autoblock possibly? I used to wrap mine just enough to allow it to grab and stop me. Maybe experiment with your bridge length too if you haven't already. I believe you can connect your autoblock to any rated area on your saddle too. Connecting to a leg loop might be a more central location and possibly stop the twist?
The only time I'd experience twist was when the autoblock was attached to the linesman loop and I was mid rappel to stop and grab platform/stick and it was minimal.

 

[KYRanger]

Thanks for the advice, I had another question, when I’m rappelling and have my figure 8 and carabiner clipped to my bridge and auto block clipped to a linesman loop I get a ton of pressure twisting my saddle. It’s uncomfortable to say the least. How do I deal with this?

Sorry I cannot help here. I am using the Safeguard to rappel, and haven’t used the figure 8.

 

[Equinox631]

You can add more friction to the figure 8 by looping the rappel line thru the large end again. That what works for me.

 

[kenn1320]

I bought 50ft, cut off enough for a linemans belt. Perfect imo and haven't found myself limited yet.

 

[slonstdy]

Thanks for the advice, I had another question, when I’m rappelling and have my figure 8 and carabiner clipped to my bridge and auto block clipped to a linesman loop I get a ton of pressure twisting my saddle. It’s uncomfortable to say the least. How do I deal with this?

That twisting is due to the location of the linesman loop, something not under your control unless you make your own saddles.

Since the linesman loop is located somewhere at your side, when the autoblock is actively engaged it puts tension on the linesman loop. Gravity being a constant is still exerting a downward force across both of your hips and being only one side is supported by the rigging on the rappel rope, the other hip is left no choice but to succumb to gravitational force which makes that hip roll downward.

My Merlin has noticeably less twist when on the autoblock compared to my Kestrel and the only thing different is the location of the linesman loops. I I use the same rigging on each. The closer the attachment point for the autoblock is to the center of your body the less of a twist you will experience.

 

[PastorKen]

if you hunt in hill country at all I recommend keeping the whole 50 feet in one piece. Also, if you have any possibility of moving in the future to SRT climbing, I recommend keeping the full length. When using SRT to climb, it is very easy to go higher than you may be used to.

 

[MaxJac]

I’m using 60ft of Oplux for rappelling. Am I ever climbing this high? No! But, I have been up 30ft if the canopy allows/requires it. For rappelling, I use an ATC for double rope. Instead of girth hitching the rope, most of the time, I put the rope over a branch and around the tree. No need for a pull down rope in that case. Other times, when there is no branch or crotch, I do take the rope, and girth high it by simply make a loop without a knot. In that case, I clip on a paracord pull down rope. 60ft fit in a DanO pouch on my saddle and I like to have extra rope more than the benefit of “less” weight. I think the extra weight is marginal and I don’t mind.

As for rappelling devices, I started out with the ATC and then tried a figure 8. I noticed that there is significant less “side pull” with the ATC on my lineman’s belt loop, so that is what I use. I keep the Figure 8 in the backpack where it lives as a backup in case I drop the ATC.

Personally, I don’t like to cut ropes at all. ...because that is one of the few things in life that can’t be reversed. Good luck, and stay safe!

 

[PastorKen]

If you do decide to cut the rope, I recommend using a hot nail to melt a hole very near the end that had the eye cut off. You can put a micro carabiner through that hole and attach it to a throw line or preset paracord. It won’t get caught in a crotch.

 

[PastorKen]

I’m using 60ft of Oplux for rappelling. Am I ever climbing this high? No! But, I have been up 30ft if the canopy allows/requires it. For rappelling, I use an ATC for double rope. Instead of girth hitching the rope, most of the time, I put the rope over a branch and around the tree. No need for a pull down rope in that case. Other times, when there is no branch or crotch, I do take the rope, and girth high it by simply make a loop without a knot. In that case, I clip on a paracord pull down rope. 60ft fit in a DanO pouch on my saddle and I like to have extra rope more than the benefit of “less” weight. I think the extra weight is marginal and I don’t mind.

As for rappelling devices, I started out with the ATC and then tried a figure 8. I noticed that there is significant less “side pull” with the ATC on my lineman’s belt loop, so that is what I use. I keep the Figure 8 in the backpack where it lives as a backup in case I drop the ATC.

Personally, I don’t like to cut ropes at all. ...because that is one of the few things in life that can’t be reversed. Good luck, and stay safe!

I have 2 SRT ropes for hunting: 40 and 60 ft. Love using the 60.

 

[bj139]

You can add more friction to the figure 8 by looping the rappel line thru the large end again. That what works for me.

This is what I was going to say.

 

[ShooterMike]

If you do decide to cut the rope, I recommend using a hot nail to melt a hole very near the end that had the eye cut off. You can put a micro carabiner through that hole and attach it to a throw line or preset paracord. It won’t get caught in a crotch.

Clever idea.


Semper Fi,
Mike
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bj139]

If you do decide to cut the rope, I recommend using a hot nail to melt a hole very near the end that had the eye cut off. You can put a micro carabiner through that hole and attach it to a throw line or preset paracord. It won’t get caught in a crotch.

Mine had one when I bought it used. I used it a few times but I always use a girth hitch and 2 half hitches for that application and mine has never gotten stuck.