Rappel rope length

[Bowmanmike]

I carry 75' of predator rope for DRT rappelling. Or climbing.

 

[rutjr]

I have 40 feet of Oplux and have 40 feet of Predator on the way. I don't like how the 8mm Oplux twists in the Safeguard so I want to try the 11.4mm Predator. I'm using a fleece pouch from EWO but I'm not sure the Predator will fit in it so I have a larger pouch coming from Eberlestock.

 

[Phaco]

40 ft of C IV canyon

 

[Parkerbow]

40ft. of Sterling Oplux, I had @4090Sharps make me a nice roll up pouch with pockets that carries my MR Safeguard, biner, delta quicklink and my pull down down cord. Before the pouch I used either a tethrd sys hauler or a TL pouch. Carrying all that rope and stuff gets kind of heavy on the saddle so in the early season I use a Tactisaddle with a EWO OneTigres battlebelt attached with molle loop quick attach loops to my saddle to keep the weight on my hips and not on the saddle itself I liked how it worked alot. I move to a TL Ambush Lite later in the season because its just a bigger more flowing saddle that I can put over my bibs or layers. Although I like carrying the rappel rope on my saddle or a BB, I am considering moving it to my pack instead but I just like the security of knowing I always have a way within arms reach of rappeling down if I need to because I one stick almost exclusively when I'm hunting from a saddle.

When you rappel down with your MR safeguard do you use any kind of prusik knot or any backup or not? I just got the MR Safeguard and 35ft of Sterling canyon rope and cannot find any videos of the MR safeguard on youtube except for 1 that does not use any backup. Just wondering.
Thanks

 

[Pilk64]

When you rappel down with your MR safeguard do you use any kind of prusik knot or any backup or not? I just got the MR Safeguard and 35ft of Sterling canyon rope and cannot find any videos of the MR safeguard on youtube except for 1 that does not use any backup. Just wondering.
Thanks

I use oplux and a safeguard...no back up prusik and never experienced any twisting in at least 30 sets this year...

 

[mtsrunner]

When you rappel down with your MR safeguard do you use any kind of prusik knot or any backup or not? I just got the MR Safeguard and 35ft of Sterling canyon rope and cannot find any videos of the MR safeguard on youtube except for 1 that does not use any backup. Just wondering.
Thanks

I usually use a Beal Jammy tied in a Klemheist below my Safeguard as a backup rapelling. The Jammy is connected to my right side lineman’s loop on my saddle.

If you do this, it is imperative that the backup cannot accidentally make its way up to the Safeguard and potentially jam it up. You could get stuck in the tree this way. That’s why MadRock doesn’t recommend a backup.

I have certainly used the Safeguard many times without a backup and it is faster for sure. My reason for the backup is that if I were to for some reason panic and not let go of the lever, I don’t want to go screaming down to the ground. A Beal Birdie + has an anti panic feature. I might try that one day if I find a good deal on one.

 

[Squatch]

My rappel rope is 0 feet now because I just sold it all


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[woodsdog2]

When you rappel down with your MR safeguard do you use any kind of prusik knot or any backup or not? I just got the MR Safeguard and 35ft of Sterling canyon rope and cannot find any videos of the MR safeguard on youtube except for 1 that does not use any backup. Just wondering.
Thanks

Now I don't but when I first started I used the MR Safeguard with the Sterling Hollowblock2 as an autoblock attached via a prussic knot on the rappel line with the prusic loop on the same biner and it just seemed to get in the way and slow me down. Originally I thought it was too short of a connection so I added my DMM Ripstop and biner (I use when one sticking) to the hollowblock prussic on my rappel line and that was a little better but still cumbersome. Then I saw some information on this forum about where to set the hollowblock prussic (above or below the safeguard) and some questions about the hollowblock material itself and so I have removed it from my kit as a backup for the time being. I recommend going with what makes you more comfortable. I am no means an expert whatsoever and have never been formally trained just my own trial and error and a lot of great information and guidance from the great people on this site and their youtube vids. In fact @DanO of EWO provided me with my original list of rappel gear at my request so I knew what to get in the first place which was extremely helpful.

I have included a pic of my rappel kit. I have a crude arrow pointing to the loop of Sterling Hollowblock2 I used to use as a backup prussic on my rappel line. As a side note, the MR Safeguard technically should be used with rope in the 8.9mm-11mm diameter and the Oplux is 8mm but I haven't had any problems with it. A great alternative to the MR Safeguard is the Beal Birdy(sp?) and it is also about $10-$12 bucks less than the MR Safeguard and is rated down to 8mm so would work perfect with the Oplux.

The DMM Ripstop I still use when one sticking up is in the upper right hand corner of the pic. I hope this helps.

 

[Barking Mad]

Just about 35 ft of retired 10.5 mm climbing rope. The economical choice, lol.

 

[Brocky]

My rappel rope is 0 feet now because I just sold it all


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Do you just jump down now??

 

[Squatch]

Do you just jump down now??

Back to WE stepps
Too much movement with one stick


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[woodsdog2]

Back to WE stepps
Too much movement with one stick


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When you say too much movement with your one stick, do you mean you are concerned when setting up with your movement? Why would that matter as the deer aren't around you yet?

 

[zurr4013]

When you say too much movement with your one stick, do you mean you are concerned when setting up with your movement? Why would that matter as the deer aren't around you yet?

we tend to hunt really small pieces of property and are concerned with blowing deer out before we even get started.

 

[Squatch]

When you say too much movement with your one stick, do you mean you are concerned when setting up with your movement? Why would that matter as the deer aren't around you yet?

Well bud to say the deer aren’t “around me yet” would be an assumption

I hunt ALOT of 5,6,10 acre urban spots and the deer are always around

I have farms also and have been walked in on multiple times while ascending trees. Fact of the matter is you don’t know what’s standing 50-100yds away watching you. This could be anywhere even on public. Our time in the woods is valuable and I’ve been hunting long enough to make an educated decision. When you’re making your one stick moves you’re moving a fair amount and focusing on the stick placement, rope wrap/placement, proper cam cleat capture, then pulling/climbing yourself up all the while making noise and movement.
When I’m using the WE stepps, not only are they mostly quiet (will be completely when my amsteel mods come in) but I’m able to affix these to the tree while watching all around me for slight movements, plus listen for noise of something coming thru the brush or down a trail. I peek at the knot just to be sure and I’m good to go, slowly moving up.
Running the lineman’s rope going from step to step there’s a lot less chance for a substantial fall also.

I loved the one stick in the beginning
It’s fun
I did it this whole season for fair assessment
Value will come back to stealth
Some guys do a good job setting trends here
I’m just not sure everyone will “stick” with this one

I’ve tried most every method to ascend the tree in a hunting situation

Sticks (xop/lone wolf/shikars now )
One stick
Drt
WE stepps

Learn the knot and tell me you can be quieter
Additionally with a little practice you can get up the tree with 12 steps just as fast as 4 (or 5 depending on your height)
I’ll experiment with the backwoods mobile aider as well but just hard to beat what works.

I killed 3 deer running them last year

Haven’t killed a single deer one sticking this year
(Not saying it’s not possible, just personally haven’t)

I killed a doe and a buck back to back 20 min apart but I used an old stick ladder from a tree stand that was already on the tree and got up above it in my saddle
That spot was the only likely spot to setup on an 8 acre property and see deer
40 yds outside of bedding they would’ve picked me off raking that tree one sticking from their bed peeking they brush and I’d have never seen them

Do what works for you, just some food for thought

 

[Squatch]

we tend to hunt really small pieces of property and are concerned with blowing deer out before we even get started.

Even on the farms
When you’re setting up
On the travel corridors outside of bedding on the food source you never know what’s inside those woods 40-50-60 yds watching you
You’re not seeing a little brown face of a bedded doe through all that, but she’s setup to see you


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[Parkerbow]

I usually use a Beal Jammy tied in a Klemheist below my Safeguard as a backup rapelling. The Jammy is connected to my right side lineman’s loop on my saddle.

If you do this, it is imperative that the backup cannot accidentally make its way up to the Safeguard and potentially jam it up. You could get stuck in the tree this way. That’s why MadRock doesn’t recommend a backup.

I have certainly used the Safeguard many times without a backup and it is faster for sure. My reason for the backup is that if I were to for some reason panic and not let go of the lever, I don’t want to go screaming down to the ground. A Beal Birdie + has an anti panic feature. I might try that one day if I find a good deal on one.

Thank you for your reply. I use to use a figure 8 backed up by a prusik but to me it was a pain in the butt. So I got the safeguard and 9mm canyon CI-V rope.

 

[Parkerbow]

Now I don't but when I first started I used the MR Safeguard with the Sterling Hollowblock2 as an autoblock attached via a prussic knot on the rappel line with the prusic loop on the same biner and it just seemed to get in the way and slow me down. Originally I thought it was too short of a connection so I added my DMM Ripstop and biner (I use when one sticking) to the hollowblock prussic on my rappel line and that was a little better but still cumbersome. Then I saw some information on this forum about where to set the hollowblock prussic (above or below the safeguard) and some questions about the hollowblock material itself and so I have removed it from my kit as a backup for the time being. I recommend going with what makes you more comfortable. I am no means an expert whatsoever and have never been formally trained just my own trial and error and a lot of great information and guidance from the great people on this site and their youtube vids. In fact @DanO of EWO provided me with my original list of rappel gear at my request so I knew what to get in the first place which was extremely helpful.

I have included a pic of my rappel kit. I have a crude arrow pointing to the loop of Sterling Hollowblock2 I used to use as a backup prussic on my rappel line. As a side note, the MR Safeguard technically should be used with rope in the 8.9mm-11mm diameter and the Oplux is 8mm but I haven't had any problems with it. A great alternative to the MR Safeguard is the Beal Birdy(sp?) and it is also about $10-$12 bucks less than the MR Safeguard and is rated down to 8mm so would work perfect with the Oplux.

The DMM Ripstop I still use when one sticking up is in the upper right hand corner of the pic. I hope this helps. View attachment 42292

Thank you for the response. You look like me as I like to put tape on everything to quiet metal parts down.

 

[woodsdog2]

Well bud to say the deer aren’t “around me yet” would be an assumption

I hunt ALOT of 5,6,10 acre urban spots and the deer are always around

I have farms also and have been walked in on multiple times while ascending trees. Fact of the matter is you don’t know what’s standing 50-100yds away watching you. This could be anywhere even on public. Our time in the woods is valuable and I’ve been hunting long enough to make an educated decision. When you’re making your one stick moves you’re moving a fair amount and focusing on the stick placement, rope wrap/placement, proper cam cleat capture, then pulling/climbing yourself up all the while making noise and movement.
When I’m using the WE stepps, not only are they mostly quiet (will be completely when my amsteel mods come in) but I’m able to affix these to the tree while watching all around me for slight movements, plus listen for noise of something coming thru the brush or down a trail. I peek at the knot just to be sure and I’m good to go, slowly moving up.
Running the lineman’s rope going from step to step there’s a lot less chance for a substantial fall also.

I loved the one stick in the beginning
It’s fun
I did it this whole season for fair assessment
Value will come back to stealth
Some guys do a good job setting trends here
I’m just not sure everyone will “stick” with this one

I’ve tried most every method to ascend the tree in a hunting situation

Sticks (xop/lone wolf/shikars now )
One stick
Drt
WE stepps

Learn the knot and tell me you can be quieter
Additionally with a little practice you can get up the tree with 12 steps just as fast as 4 (or 5 depending on your height)
I’ll experiment with the backwoods mobile aider as well but just hard to beat what works.

I killed 3 deer running them last year

Haven’t killed a single deer one sticking this year
(Not saying it’s not possible, just personally haven’t)

I killed a doe and a buck back to back 20 min apart but I used an old stick ladder from a tree stand that was already on the tree and got up above it in my saddle
That spot was the only likely spot to setup on an 8 acre property and see deer
40 yds outside of bedding they would’ve picked me off raking that tree one sticking from their bed peeking they brush and I’d have never seen them

Do what works for you, just some food for thought

Thanks for the perspective. That does make complete sense especially on small urban parcels and even farms where you're getting in and close. I would say one sticking has the propensity to make you incorporate more staccato movements into your setups which could trigger a prey species' awareness but so does just walking in. I have learned that I have had to slow way down especially when hunting early season close to bedding setups. I also try to make slow and deliberate movements when one sticking. In my assessment of using both multiple sticks and one sticking, I have not noticed any appreciably more noise. I use a cam cleat on a Muddy Pro to one stick and I try not to rake it against the tree. I loosen the rope and take it right off. Takes more time but is quieter.

 

[Squatch]

Thanks for the perspective. That does make complete sense especially on small urban parcels and even farms where you're getting in and close. I would say one sticking has the propensity to make you incorporate more staccato movements into your setups which could trigger a prey species' awareness but so does just walking in. I have learned that I have had to slow way down especially when hunting early season close to bedding setups. I also try to make slow and deliberate movements when one sticking. In my assessment of using both multiple sticks and one sticking, I have not noticed any appreciably more noise. I use a cam cleat on a Muddy Pro to one stick and I try not to rake it against the tree. I loosen the rope and take it right off. Takes more time but is quieter.

I see what you’re saying for sure
I’ve slowed my movement down over the years but we all hunt different woods and herds
In Indiana our deer (especially urban) become alert to anything out of the ordinary fairly quickly
Much like your deer I assume

My reference to the raking is when you are off the ground level and you bring your stick up to the next placement , you pull the rope into the cam as tight as possible, but still not as tight as when you’re ground level and it’s in front of you. When you step into the aider or on the stick at that point is where the noise is produced.
I had a 3 step aider
Perhaps a 2 would’ve put the stick closer to eye level when I’m elevated and allow better tightening of the rope into the cam cleat


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[woodsdog2]

I see what you’re saying for sure
I’ve slowed my movement down over the years but we all hunt different woods and herds
In Indiana our deer (especially urban) become alert to anything out of the ordinary fairly quickly
Much like your deer I assume

My reference to the raking is when you are off the ground level and you bring your stick up to the next placement , you pull the rope into the cam as tight as possible, but still not as tight as when you’re ground level and it’s in front of you. When you step into the aider or on the stick at that point is where the noise is produced.
I had a 3 step aider
Perhaps a 2 would’ve put the stick closer to eye level when I’m elevated and allow better tightening of the rope into the cam cleat


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I do use just one GM climbing aider in a 24" loop. I place the top step about eye level. Honestly, I don't remember how much noise the stick makes once you "set it" by adding your weight to the aider but if it were loud, I probably would not be using that method. I am going to pay more attention to that though. I can tell you that as the season progresses, especially around here on Lake Erie, we have a lot of wind all fall and perhaps that's why I don't remember my setups making a ton a noise. My wife and kids say my hearing isn't the best sometimes either but somehow I always seem to hear the grunts in the woods and the gobblers in the hills every spring before most. "Selective" Hearing perhaps???