Marmuzz
Well-Known Member
Edit: This was a brainstorm I had but admittedly it’s not a good idea. You are advised not to replicate this. Thanks to those who commented on the potential dangers of this.
Okay safety police, climbing experienced people, chew me out, I have to be missing something…
Yesterday I was testing out friction hitches above my Mammut Smart 2.0, and watched some videos on using an ATC belay device. With a hitch above a belay device, I began to think, all that device is is an expensive hitch tender. The hitch is really doing all the work.
I started thinking about the "U-bend" shape these devices force the rope into after your carabiner clips and I wondered why any slotted item couldn't work the same way... it wouldn't even have to be climbing related, or climbed rated... it's just a tender right??
I tested it out this morning in my basement. Threw a quick link on in place of the Smart. Sure enough, in this configuration, it tended the hitch up, and because I have figured out a hitch the seems fitted to my bodyweight, it let me down fine.
To be fair, I didn't test this on a tree with my full bodyweight. Maybe on rappel a legit device would help rope feed out better and make releasing the hitch easier.
It has me wondering, IF YOU USE A HITCH *ABOVE THE DEVICE, why pay $25-50 for a climb-spec belay device when any $5 hardware store item with a nicely rounded slot for the rope will work?
So... what am I missing? I'm completely open to being corrected and told this is stupid and unsafe if it is.
Okay safety police, climbing experienced people, chew me out, I have to be missing something…
Yesterday I was testing out friction hitches above my Mammut Smart 2.0, and watched some videos on using an ATC belay device. With a hitch above a belay device, I began to think, all that device is is an expensive hitch tender. The hitch is really doing all the work.
I started thinking about the "U-bend" shape these devices force the rope into after your carabiner clips and I wondered why any slotted item couldn't work the same way... it wouldn't even have to be climbing related, or climbed rated... it's just a tender right??
I tested it out this morning in my basement. Threw a quick link on in place of the Smart. Sure enough, in this configuration, it tended the hitch up, and because I have figured out a hitch the seems fitted to my bodyweight, it let me down fine.
To be fair, I didn't test this on a tree with my full bodyweight. Maybe on rappel a legit device would help rope feed out better and make releasing the hitch easier.
It has me wondering, IF YOU USE A HITCH *ABOVE THE DEVICE, why pay $25-50 for a climb-spec belay device when any $5 hardware store item with a nicely rounded slot for the rope will work?
So... what am I missing? I'm completely open to being corrected and told this is stupid and unsafe if it is.
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