Repelling questions

[Ehlusive]

So, I climbing using knaider swaider and we steps. Is repelling just added fun or my situation idea to repelling. I understand the one stickers, fully just not sure if its that much beneficial for someone like me and my climbing method. If so, i typically climb to 20ish feet. So, ideally how much repel line would I need with a figure 8 on end and quick snap.

Aside from rope, what would a person need being a newbie and on a budget. All the while being weight consciences. Whats repelling equipment typically add.. 2ish lbs?

Thanks

 

[trailblazer75]

Personally, I climb exactly the same way and rappel every time. I feel a lot better rappelling to my platform and steps than I do fishing down with my K/S combo. I feel like it’s safer because I’m always tethered to the tree. Yeah it’s fun. It’s also fast. And since you’re using WE steps and the K/S combo you’ve got the room to carry the weight. That’s how I justify it.


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[Chandler96]

Rappelling is the ideal way to get down no matter what way you get up. its the only way ill do it now.

 

[CharlieTN]

To answer your first question, descending is always more dangerous than climbing. Therefore rappelling down is a very safe, and quick way to get down. It also has the added benefit, especially if you use the rappel rope as your tether and connect up to the tree with that from the ground (just move it up with you). Then you can rappel down at any point if something were to happen such as a stick kick out, step give way, you get hurt, whatever.

If you’re only going 20’ I would suggest enough extra to be able to wrap around the largest tree at your tether height. I usually only go to 20-22’ but carry 36’ or rappel line/tether.

And finally, a figure-8 will work just fine to get you down. Just need the 8 and a carabiner to connect it to your bridge. A lot of people also add a friction knot, such as a Distel or Schwabisch hitch on the braking end of the line as a back up. If you slip and let go of the rope, that friction knot will stop your from falling as long as you have rigged it properly. However if you’re going to rappel and use that as your tether an auto-locking belay device such as the Mad Rock Safeguard works great and will be on the rope all of the time.

Hope this helps.

 

[Wyatt_burp]

30' oplux 8mm or similiar, sewn or spliced or tie a figure 8 on a bite. Cheapest? Metal figure 8 and some prussic for a friction hitch, that way you just let it tighten up when you get to your steps to pull em off.

Once you have a rappel system you like, you won't go in the woods without it.

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[trailblazer75]

I agree. Rappel is the best way to go for most of us. I run a figure 8 and a schwebash hitch. Tends easily. Stops me. I’m going to try a madrock device soon.


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[Atizzle07]

To answer your first question, descending is always more dangerous than climbing. Therefore rappelling down is a very safe, and quick way to get down. It also has the added benefit, especially if you use the rappel rope as your tether and connect up to the tree with that from the ground (just move it up with you). Then you can rappel down at any point if something were to happen such as a stick kick out, step give way, you get hurt, whatever.

If you’re only going 20’ I would suggest enough extra to be able to wrap around the largest tree at your tether height. I usually only go to 20-22’ but carry 36’ or rappel line/tether.

And finally, a figure-8 will work just fine to get you down. Just need the 8 and a carabiner to connect it to your bridge. A lot of people also add a friction knot, such as a Distel or Schwabisch hitch on the braking end of the line as a back up. If you slip and let go of the rope, that friction knot will stop your from falling as long as you have rigged it properly. However if you’re going to rappel and use that as your tether an auto-locking belay device such as the Mad Rock Safeguard works great and will be on the rope all of the time.

Hope this helps.

Second the extra rope. I only had about 25’ and was in a tight crotch at about 20’ up. When I pulled it down my stopper knot got stuck in my quick link about 10’ up and I was in a sticky situation. Luckily I whipped it around enough that it wiggled through but that could’ve been a bad deal.


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[Ehlusive]

Ill keep eye out in classifieds. Thinking i want to give it a shot

 

[FrankNess14]

I agree. Rappel is the best way to go for most of us. I run a figure 8 and a schwebash hitch. Tends easily. Stops me. I’m going to try a madrock device soon.


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I’ve heard that a figure 8 twists the rope, do you have issues with that?


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[Ehlusive]

So how does one decide if certain rope is good for repelling or not.

Something like this ok ?

Sterling HTP Static 9mm Rope

HTP Static 9mm from Sterling features a 100% polyester static kernmantle construction. It is very lightweight and offers super low-elongation. Hydrophobic and thus can be used when water is p

www.treestuff.com

 

[mattsteg]

So how does one decide if certain rope is good for repelling or not.

Something like this ok ?

Sterling HTP Static 9mm Rope

HTP Static 9mm from Sterling features a 100% polyester static kernmantle construction. It is very lightweight and offers super low-elongation. Hydrophobic and thus can be used when water is p

www.treestuff.com

Yeah that's a good rappel rope.

 

[trailblazer75]

I’ve heard that a figure 8 twists the rope, do you have issues with that?


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It does. I personally don’t mind as I just let it hang there and untwist as I pack up the rest of my stuff. It really hasn’t made any difference to me.


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[FrankNess14]

It does. I personally don’t mind as I just let it hang there and untwist as I pack up the rest of my stuff. It really hasn’t made any difference to me.


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How do you pack/store your rope? I’ve been using one of the water bottle molle pouches and i don’t even take the rope all the way out, so twisting would likely cause an issue.

 

[trailblazer75]

That is a roll up rope pouch that I had made. It’s got to zippered pockets. I’ll take some more pictures of it when I get home. It’s pretty slick.


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[trailblazer75]

Here’s my scaffold setup.

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[CharlieTN]

I’ve heard that a figure 8 twists the rope, do you have issues with that?


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Technically yes and if it was more than a 30’ drop it might matter. In the short distance we are working with it’s not a problem. In fact it will likely twists it a whole lot less than when we wrap the rope back up.

 

[CharlieTN]

How do you pack/store your rope? I’ve been using one of the water bottle molle pouches and i don’t even take the rope all the way out, so twisting would likely cause an issue.

Personal opinion here - you should always take the rappel rope completely out when you rappel. It’s too easy to have it get tangled up then pull that tangle up into your rappel device while trying to come down.

 

[As in a sling]

Personal opinion here - you should always take the rappel rope completely out when you rappel. It’s too easy to have it get tangled up then pull that tangle up into your rappel device while trying to come down.

If I’m to take a cue from every other application where rappelling is used, they all have a free hanging line below them. I’m sure there’s a good reason why they don’t keep the rope with them.

 

[As in a sling]

Here’s my scaffold setup.

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I’m moving to this knot on my tether because it captures the ring and seems to use less rope than a fig 8 or overhand on a bight.

 

[Chandler96]

The madrock safeguards just went back in stock at madrock.com. Thats what i use and its magical. I had a member here make a rollpouch exactly like @trailblazer75 and im looking forward to getting it. You for sure want all your rope is out of the pouch and as untwisted as you can on the actual repel.