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Rope mod climbing sticks

miketanner82

Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Messages
57
Ok indid the rope mod on my APIs sticks. I love it that I dont have to worry about the buckles any more making noise. I took this setup out yesterday and it worked out pretty good. My only issue is the steps dont bite as hard. Putting downward pressure on the sticks are not the issue. Its upward pressure. I hit one of my steps on the climbing with my foot and the stick came lose pretty good enough for me to stop and reset and pay better attention to my foot when climbing. I'm assuming this is the rope I used and has to much stretch compared to a nylon strap? What do you guys see? Even when the stick was locked under my full weight when undoing them on the climb down. It didn't take much to pick up on the stick and come lose. My strap setup I couldn't I had to hit the buckle release for the steps to come lose.

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I use amsteel and pull out the bottom tree bracket and pull down hard before stepping up. Amsteel stretches less than anything else you'll use. I don't have the issue you described. It might be your rope or how you are setting them up. If a rope stretches a good bit, then it is pulling up on the stick when you aren't on it.

What kind of rope are you using? Hopefully a climb spec static rope. I've used cheaper rope from lowes before for other things, and it stretches like crazy.
 
Its muddy life line rope.

You use 1/4 amsteel for you rope?

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Its muddy life line rope.

You use 1/4 amsteel for you rope?

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I use 1/8" amsteel that I made a daisy chain out of, not expecting to do rope mod type tie in instead. My versabutton is homemade with 3/8" distance between stick to button. The daisy chained 1/8" amsteel locks perfectly the way I tie it (two passes behind button and then a loop over the button) and I think the doubled line of the daisy chain might grab the bark better as well as I have 2 points of contact around tree.

1/4" amsteel is much more expensive (and so much stronger than needed, but if you wanna splurge go for it). If you go with a DIY versabutton then you can match the button to the rope instead of the rope to the button. For instance, I bet a 1/4" button height would work great with 1/8" amsteel (using usual rope mod tie tech). I make my spacer for the button out of 3/8" outside diameter copper pipe. Cut with a spinning pipe cutter, it fits perfectly over 1/4" bolts and is so cheap you can experiment to find your button height. My 3/8" spacer works for me with 1/8" amsteel because the daisy chain is double width with splices in it to make it more girthy.

The bolt I use is grade 8 yellow zinc with same type of bolt but nylon locking. The button is a 1.25" galvanized fender washer I've painted.
 
Last edited:
Yeah I some time for next year. I haven't decided what way I'm going to go with yet. I think I'll try the amsteel and play around with it. Thanks for the info.

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Yeah I some time for next year. I haven't decided what way I'm going to go with yet. I think I'll try the amsteel and play around with it. Thanks for the info.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

No problem, hope I helped out. One last thing, in case you aren't aware already, they make amsteel rope with braided nylon or polyester outer sheaths. This can get you the width and feel of a traditional rope with a covering that protects the amsteel but also the strength and low stretch of the amsteel. It is used for sailing often and is pricey though.
 
I currently use 1/4 amsteel but prior to that I had the muddy rope. Getting the ropes tight and as close to horizonal before applying the weight will help but the stick will dislodge no matter what you do if upward pressure is applied. The stand of bracket design is what resists the upward movement. I also have the API bracket's on my sticks and I agree that they don't have the best bite. I'm just mindful of the fact that they will dislodge if I'm not careful

Using the 1/4 amsteel I cut the button spacer at 7/16 and it works good...... Probably 3/8 work a little better
 
I currently use 1/4 amsteel but prior to that I had the muddy rope. Getting the ropes tight and as close to horizonal before applying the weight will help but the stick will dislodge no matter what you do if upward pressure is applied. The stand of bracket design is what resists the upward movement. I also have the API bracket's on my sticks and I agree that they don't have the best bite. I'm just mindful of the fact that they will dislodge if I'm not careful

Using the 1/4 amsteel I cut the button spacer at 7/16 and it works good...... Probably 3/8 work a little better

I'm surprised you are having this issue. When hawk heliums, it is a bear to get the stick off the tree. I have to pull out on the bottom of the stick and really push up hard.
 
Due to the standoff bracket design and bark of the tree....oaks are difficult to remove but cedars and pines they pull up easier. I got the API bracket's local and I'm not planning on changing them but I do believe a different standoff would grab better
 
Due to the standoff bracket design and bark of the tree....oaks are difficult to remove but cedars and pines they pull up easier. I got the API bracket's local and I'm not planning on changing them but I do believe a different standoff would grab better
I sharpened the points on the tip of my brackets because they were pretty round. Worked like a charm!
 
I use 8mm accessory cord on lone wolf sticks. For the best results I make sure and have the rope as tight as possible around the tree, and pull down by hand first to get the stretch out. They stick to the tree well.
 
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