HuntNorthEast
Well-Known Member
Okay, looking to "build" my Phantom to a better quality/my standards. I am going to cut off the factory bridge loops and get rid of that garbage comfort channel design. I am going to redesign the bridge loops with all webbing and sewn in sections of rope to act as the "comfort channels". By doing this, it should prevent the issues of the balls pushing through the webbing. I will also make less channels because honestly there isn't much of a difference between 1 and 2 as there is from 1 to 3 settings. By spacing the channels out it should be more noticeable and prevent slipping.
My other bridge loop idea is to make daisy chain style bridge loops with sewn webbing. I'd use a removable bridge with this. Either double biner ends or find my sweet spot, do a figure 8 on a bight on one side and biner the other end.
Also, looking for input on bridge ideas. I hate the amsteel bridge. It is a pain to adjust the prusik and annoying that it cannot be removed at all. If I make a bridge, I want to use a thicker rope similar to sampson predator and a prusik that isn't a country mile long. Sometimes I want to be really tight to the tree and a long prusik makes it less than desirable at times.
Any advice or pictures of your setups would be appreciated, thanks!
My other bridge loop idea is to make daisy chain style bridge loops with sewn webbing. I'd use a removable bridge with this. Either double biner ends or find my sweet spot, do a figure 8 on a bight on one side and biner the other end.
Also, looking for input on bridge ideas. I hate the amsteel bridge. It is a pain to adjust the prusik and annoying that it cannot be removed at all. If I make a bridge, I want to use a thicker rope similar to sampson predator and a prusik that isn't a country mile long. Sometimes I want to be really tight to the tree and a long prusik makes it less than desirable at times.
Any advice or pictures of your setups would be appreciated, thanks!