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Sealing a tree

Jay_Disarray

Jay_Disarray

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2019
Messages
1,950
Location
MN
I've got a tree in my back yard I've been using as my primary test climbing tree for a bit now, but the branches are starting to or have died on it. There are still green branches and leaves on the tree, so it's not entirely dead.

What I'd like to do is to chop the top branches off so that there's a three-way fork on the very top of the tree. Then I would like to seal those cut off branches off to prevent internal rotting. At least 2 of the 3 have to go, because they are either mostly or entirely dead, one branch is over my house.

What type of sealer would you recommend to prevent internal rotting and or any alternative methods to accomplish the same task

Screenshot_20200702-201449.pngScreenshot_20200702-201503.png
 
I plan to plant a telephone pole after a few years, I just need one until I can finish the rest of my yard work
 
Have you ever been in a tree that has been topped?
They become very shaky. All the branches and weight in the treetop has a dampening effect on the entire tree.
I'm not sure that you would like it without the top.
That being said, they do sell tree wound dressing. I've used it to seal pruning cuts and damage to some trees. It works okay.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
Have you ever been in a tree that has been topped?
They become very shaky. All the branches and weight in the treetop has a dampening effect on the entire tree.
I'm not sure that you would like it without the top.
That being said, they do sell tree wound dressing. I've used it to seal pruning cuts and damage to some trees. It works okay.
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no i havent been in one, but that makes total sense. either way i have to top the tree because of all the dead branches i guess. the rest of the trunk is gonna have to wait until i can get a new chainsaw down the road
 
Make your cuts at an angle so water won't sit on the cut, and don't cut the raised collar at the base of the branch. You don't want to leave a long "stub" but don't cut the collar. It should be fine without treatment
 
Jay_Disarray said:
no i havent been in one, but that makes total sense. either way i have to top the tree because of all the dead branches i guess. the rest of the trunk is gonna have to wait until i can get a new chainsaw down the road
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Sounds like it could be complicated to remove those dead branches, especially if they are hanging over your house.
What species of tree is it? Dead branches can be very brittle which can compromise the hinge.
I've topped a few trees and I gotta say it always gives me a pucker when the large branches are released. The trunk that you are attached to can shake violently. Which brings me to another point...Are you sure the main trunk is sound? It's something that's always entered my mind when I've topped trees. I don't know if the trunk could snap if it has issues, but there are some tremendous stresses that the trunk experiences when top weight is suddenly removed.
Climbing with, and using a saw at those kinds of heights is dangerous stuff. Be careful brother. Maybe it's a job for a pro.
I'd also hate to see any damage done to your home. This crap can be very unforgiving.
Another question...are those branches in contact with any other trees? As the brand begins to fall, if it contacts other trees, all kinds of crazy stuff can happen. Branches can roll, or kick back. or cause the bar to be pinched.
 
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Allegheny Tom said:
Sounds like it could be complicated to remove those dead branches, especially if they are hanging over your house.
What species of tree is it? Dead branches can be very brittle which can compromise the hinge.
I've topped a few trees and I gotta say it always gives me a pucker when the large branches are released. The trunk that you are attached to can shake violently. Which brings me to another point...Are you sure the main trunk is sound? It's something that's always entered my mind when I've topped trees. I don't know if the trunk could snap if it has issues, but there are some tremendous stresses that the trunk experiences when top weight is suddenly removed.
Climbing with, and using a saw at those kinds of heights is dangerous stuff. Be careful brother. Maybe it's a job for a pro.
I'd also hate to see any damage done to your home. This crap can be very unforgiving.
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My plan is to use a pocket chainsaw and take a little bit at a time, from the ground by using a long rope on the handles. I'll do a throw line over the branches for setting my saw.

It'll take time but that is the safest way.
 
I've topped trees like this before, for my difficult trees where we couldn't just drop it whole, but we've always removed the entire tree, never left the trunk up. It's not enjoyable, but doable
 
Jay_Disarray said:
My plan is to use a pocket chainsaw and take a little bit at a time, from the ground by using a long rope on the handles. I'll do a throw line over the branches for setting my saw.

It'll take time but that is the safest way.
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That doesn't sound like a good plan to me. You should make an undercut before the back cut to form a hinge that will parallel the direction you will be pulling the branch.
Even if you wanted the branch to drop straight down, an undercut should be made as the very 1st cut. Branches can stay attached at the underside where they meet the tree and not break free. You may end up with the falling branch ripping a few feet of cambium and bark off of the main trunk.
 
Appreciate the concern man. Where the branches attach to the trunk they are only 4" wide, so they arent massive branches to start with.

My first cuts will be a good 20ft out from the trunk, so an undercut would be impossible. The branches are about 2" thick where ill make my first cuts, and then cut in 5-8ft branch chunks at a time, so nothing i remove will be large enough to cause much damage.
 
Did you consider climbing up the tree and using a pole saw to cut the branches? Good practice.
 
bj139 said:
Did you consider climbing up the tree and using a pole saw to cut the branches? Good practice.
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Yea i dont think my pole saw is long enough to be of any help at the distance i have to cut the branch over my house.

I guess i was just more curious if i should do anything to the cut point by the trunk on the tree to seal it off better.
 
Jay_Disarray said:
Yea i dont think my pole saw is long enough to be of any help at the distance i have to cut the branch over my house.

I guess i was just more curious if i should do anything to the cut point by the trunk on the tree to seal it off better.
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I wouldn’t do anything. I live in anoka county MN and they say not to trim oaks at all this time of year because of oak wilt and if you have to trim then to treat the cut. Couple years ago I said screw it and just cut the branches over my house with a long extendo hand saw. Never treated and tree is healthy as can be.
 
Jay_Disarray said:
Yea i dont think my pole saw is long enough to be of any help at the distance i have to cut the branch over my house.

I guess i was just more curious if i should do anything to the cut point by the trunk on the tree to seal it off better.
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When you do your cut to take the branch, ie, undercut and backcut do it out about 6 inches out from the collar. Once the limb is down do your angled flush cut. With the weight of the branch gone you'll have no worries of a split back into the collar. That will give you the cleanest cut possible. Edit: if your chunking in small enough pieces then I wouldn't worry to much about ripping out, or backcuts or undercuts.
 
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