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Setting up arrows for my recurve

Kurt

Kurt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
2,331
Location
Massachusetts
I'm at a point where I need to get, and set up arrows for my Samick Sage 40# recurve and I was wondering if you trad guys could let me know a few particulars on total arrow weight, point weight, what should I be shooting for as far as FOC. ( how important is that) I'm going to purchase an arrow test kit ( traditional only carbon bare shaft test kit), should I have them cut to length, and the inserts put in,and a point test kit, along with some brass 5gr washers, from 3 rivers. I'm 28 inch draw. My practice arrows are cut to 30 inches to the valley of the nock, and seem to fly well. It is my tendency to over think myself into a paralysis. Should I add weight tubes to increase overall arrow weight, how much does it matter if the ferrule on the field points and broadheads don't match the diameter of the arrow shaft??? Please slap some sense into me. Thanks
 
Kurt, the best thing you could do is contact 3Rivers Archery. They can get you dialed in better than probably anyone. That's what they do. They're familiar with your bow and are great people to work with.
 
Kurt said:
I'm at a point where I need to get, and set up arrows for my Samick Sage 40# recurve and I was wondering if you trad guys could let me know a few particulars on total arrow weight, point weight, what should I be shooting for as far as FOC. ( how important is that) I'm going to purchase an arrow test kit ( traditional only carbon bare shaft test kit), should I have them cut to length, and the inserts put in,and a point test kit, along with some brass 5gr washers, from 3 rivers. I'm 28 inch draw. My practice arrows are cut to 30 inches to the valley of the nock, and seem to fly well. It is my tendency to over think myself into a paralysis. Should I add weight tubes to increase overall arrow weight, how much does it matter if the ferrule on the field points and broadheads don't match the diameter of the arrow shaft??? Please slap some sense into me. Thanks
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If your practice arrows fly well, why not make up a set that matches the specs of those? Dont over think it, trad is supposed to be less stressful :)
 
Truthfully, I shoot the same arrow from most of my bows. Most would consider them over spined but they hit where I look. I use 3 four inch feathers to straighten them up. I don't get too crazy with the FOC mess as I shoot 50-55# most of the time and they blow through anything i shoot at (if i make a good shot). for a 40# bow i would look at 35/55 GT shafts, I might use a 100grn brass insert and a good COC broadhead (I use 165 Simmons Sharks). I then use brace height shelf/side plate material to tune the arrow to my bow - if needed. I like an arrow around 450-550 grains for whitetail and I could care less how fast they move as long as they hit where I look.

Like others have said you can get way into the weeds but it is not necessary. Shoot broadheads, do they fly good and hit where you look - done. I can shoot a variety of spines from the same bow and out to 20 yards my accuracy stays about the same. I seldom shoot past 25 on game - but I practice out to 50 yards when i am scouting.
 
Dunno if youve seen clay hayes on youtube, but he has a whole playlist to tuning recurves/lonbow/arrows. Cant recommend enough. He is somehow associated with 3 rivers, and ill be contacting them soon myself. Not confident enough with it to hunt with it this year, but plan to get into a traditional league in january.


As far as arrow weight and FOC, my understanding is that is personal preference and should be based on the game your chasing. For whitetail I dont think you have to be too crazy. Ranges are 0-12% "normal FOC" (I think normal means where youre probably at with "off the shelf" setups) 12-19% High 19-30% Extreme and +30% Ultra Extreme. My goal is to be in high FOC range. Should give better flight, better penetration without sacrificing too much in speed with heavier broadheads to reach extreme ranges. Also think extremes are for thick hide/bone game.

Once you choose a target range of FOC you get a spine range around that to test and see which flies better.

Also look into the ashby studies (schooled me on FOC mentioned above)

www.youtube.com

TuffheadBroadhead

www.youtube.com www.youtube.com

If you want to send me your email I have built a spreadsheet on FOC and an estimated impact on bow speed. Put a thread on here to see if anyone knew how to upload excel, but no one responded. Was looking for input on it to try and dial it in. There are plenty of calculators online (3 Rivers has one) but I just like to build stuff like that myself so I know how it works.
 
ricky racer said:
Kurt, the best thing you could do is contact 3Rivers Archery. They can get you dialed in better than probably anyone. That's what they do. They're familiar with your bow and are great people to work with.
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I did contact them and the person on the phone seemed to know about as much as me. It didn't leave me feeling confident. I will contact them again as I commit to a direction.
 
I know I'm over thinking it. I would like to fiddle a little bit. What's everyone's thought on the bare shaft and field point test kits, and brass washers? They're not super expensive,. Worth it ? Has anyone used them? AND.... Thanks again guys
 
If you have old arrows you can build your own test kit without buying a "test kit". Add brass weights, take them off, etc. Your length isn't going to vary much based upon your anchor point and draw length. Some guys like longer, some like shorter. Starting out 20-25 yd. shots don't need to be over thought with crazy amounts of arrow tuning. Shoot your broadhead into a foam target, add weight, take it away, try different fixed broadheads and go with what shoots the best. Don't get wrapped up in the charts it'll drive ya nuts. You can measure penetration with a dry erase marker on your arrow and see which one you like the best for accuracy/penetration. Probably not optimal but it'll get ya a whitetail.
 
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Have you bareshaft tuned your current setup? If so stick with it or close to it. I personally shoot 200 grain heads so will tune every setup to that head. If you have good shooters nearby ask them for help. Best advice I can give is to call Lancaster and ask for John Wert. If he isn’t available ask for Sean Snyder, nobody else will really know how to help you there other than those 2. If you are in Wisconsin I am happy to meet up and help.
 
Marc W said:
Have you bareshaft tuned your current setup? If so stick with it or close to it. I personally shoot 200 grain heads so will tune every setup to that head. If you have good shooters nearby ask them for help. Best advice I can give is to call Lancaster and ask for John Wert. If he isn’t available ask for Sean Snyder, nobody else will really know how to help you there other than those 2. If you are in Wisconsin I am happy to meet up and help.
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I'm in MA. Thanks for the names and the help.
 
My long bow was shooting bullets at 50# with 300 up front 340 spine cut too 32".... But I did a lot of work trying to figure that out... I found it easy to film my arrow in slow motion to figure out if it was weak or stiff and that made tunning a breeze Clay Hays has video on it as mentioned above.
 
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