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shifting

T

Tim Tripoli

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2016
Messages
56
At times I am finding if difficult to twist 90 degrees in the saddle. It seems like my bridges just doesn't want to slide in the biner. Do you guys have any suggests?

Thanks

Tim
 
I'm a newbie myself but I bet an Amsteel bridge would be just the ticket for what you're looking for.
 
Tim Tripoli said:
At times I am finding if difficult to twist 90 degrees in the saddle. It seems like my bridges just doesn't want to slide in the biner. Do you guys have any suggests?

Thanks

Tim
Click to expand...
I twist my upper body the direction I want to turn and then drop the weight off of that leg this typically allows the bridge to slide without any issues. Are you sitting or leaning? This may be something that guys need to know to help out. I don't sit so that may be part of the reason my bridge slides with no trouble at all.

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I think Nutterbuster switched over to a webbing for his bridge just because of this. I can imagine that would make it slide much easier through the carabiner.


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X2 on the webbing bridge. My webbing bride slides much nicer than my amsteel bridge. And I can easily adjust the length to my preference.
 
I find the webbing bridge has the nicest sliding characteristic, specifically Sterling Tech Tape. Just the right amount of friction for nice controlled movements. Amsteel is nice in that regard also but I prefer the webbing.
 
is it spliced Amsteel? i bet its getting caught on the splice in the ropes
is it soft rope? i've had a HME rope and it would "dent" making it hard to twist
 
elk yinzer said:
I find the webbing bridge has the nicest sliding characteristic, specifically Sterling Tech Tape. Just the right amount of friction for nice controlled movements. Amsteel is nice in that regard also but I prefer the webbing.
Click to expand...

This is interesting. What size amsteel and is it the coated amsteel blue, or the knock off winch cable? The Tech tape in 1" is rated at 4000lbs, so you could go down to 5/32" amsteel if your comfortable with 4000lb rating.
 
Thr
kenn1320 said:
This is interesting. What size amsteel and is it the coated amsteel blue, or the knock off winch cable? The Tech tape in 1" is rated at 4000lbs, so you could go down to 5/32" amsteel if your comfortable with 4000lb rating.
Click to expand...

Whatever was stock on the Mantis, I believe 1/4" Amsteel blue.

In the traditional saddle application, by the book, I am not concerned with the rating of the tech tape or amsteel. Either is more than adequate. But I wouldn't go any lighter just to shave a couple grams, what is the point?

That said, I also use my saddle like a safety harness when I hunt from a stand. A hybrid approach I like to use once in awhile. For that off-label application given I am introducing slack and increasing the fall factor in my system, I backed up my bridge (backed up webbing with amsteel).

For minimal extra weight I just felt it was backing up what was probably the weakest link in the system. Keep in mind those gear ratings are Minimum Breaking Strength which is derived from static testing. Which is quite different than shock loading. From everything I have researched, Amsteel is not considered a safe choice for dynamic shock loading because of the low melting point of dyneema. Friction generated by fall forces can literally melt the rope. In theory based on things I've read anyway. To my knowledge I can't find where Amsteel has even been tested for such. So definitely in that application I want to back it up just to be safe. But again, just hanging from a saddle and following best practices I think it is safe because in that instamce shock loading should never happen.
 
Cajunshooter said:
I think Nutterbuster switched over to a webbing for his bridge just because of this. I can imagine that would make it slide much easier through the carabiner.


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Click to expand...
Yep. Tubular webbing is cheap, easy to install, slides well, and packs well. Literally no negatives that I can think of.
 
Well I have both. I have a Amsteel bridge on my Guido's and the stock rope bridge on my Kestrel. I do a combination of leaning and sitting both. I want to convert both setups to Amsteel but thought I would give it a try on my Guido's first. The issue is the same with both, it seems like I really have to torque my hips to get it moving. Do you guys grab the tether (less weight) to help rotating? Or is it all in the hips? I can see grabbing the the tether if I am just looking around, but if I have the bow in hand that is not going to work.
 
Tim Tripoli said:
Well I have both. I have a Amsteel bridge on my Guido's and the stock rope bridge on my Kestrel. I do a combination of leaning and sitting both. I want to convert both setups to Amsteel but thought I would give it a try on my Guido's first. The issue is the same with both, it seems like I really have to torque my hips to get it moving. Do you guys grab the tether (less weight) to help rotating? Or is it all in the hips? I can see grabbing the the tether if I am just looking around, but if I have the bow in hand that is not going to work.
Click to expand...
I think some resistance is normal. I have to deliberately twist in my setup. Something I just thought about is the carabiner. The finish on that can impact the friction level and therefore the ease of turning.
 
Not sure if it is related to your issue or not...I used my Mantis this year with the stock bridge. The only issue I had with the bridge not rotating was when I had the back band on. It would get caught in the knots on the bridge.

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