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Silencing EW0 climbing sticks

Bigterp said:
If your copying beast sticks the holes are every 1” OC, that gives you a 1/2” difference b/w the 2 planes….. if that makes any sense
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so.....1/2" diam hole.....1" space.....1/2" diam hole.....and if you were to "unfold" the stick....then then spacing between holes on different sides would be 1/4" then?
 

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raisins said:
so.....1/2" diam hole.....1" space.....1/2" diam hole.....and if you were to "unfold" the stick....then then spacing between holes on different sides would be 1/4" then?
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Yup that’s it! Shortest distance from either end to center of any hole is 1”
 
Looks to me like beast sticks are 1” on center leaving 1/2” between holes.88D7E202-AD3E-4BB6-A757-215AE9075A35.jpeg
 
raisins said:
so.....1/2" diam hole.....1" space.....1/2" diam hole.....and if you were to "unfold" the stick....then then spacing between holes on different sides would be 1/4" then?
Click to expand...
Given holes are 1/2” diameter with half inch between each hole…
Each stick would have a maximum of 64 holes.
holes are a max of 1/2”
Aluminum is 1/8” thick
6061 is 2.7g/cm3 or .0975 lb/in3

thanks for your help! I’d use this calculation for an absolute max weight reduction and would likely use less holes / have them slightly smaller. I’d prefer to air on the side of more strength and less flex.
 
Jammintree said:
Given holes are 1/2” diameter with half inch between each hole…
Each stick would have a maximum of 64 holes.
holes are a max of 1/2”
Aluminum is 1/8” thick
6061 is 2.7g/cm3 or .0975 lb/in3

thanks for your help! I’d use this calculation for an absolute max weight reduction and would likely use less holes / have them slightly smaller. I’d prefer to air on the side of more strength and less flex.
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what i calculated in yellow....weight savings in red

0.153 pounds per stick or 2.45 ounces saved per stick

1677524193541.png
 
Bigterp said:
Plus the weight of the stealth strips, I don’t think I’d bother……… I’d make sure you had a decent pack & you’ll never notice that 6-8 oz savings….
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my main thing would be the time it would take to drill all those holes in a way that would look nice and not compromise the stick

64 holes.....first stick would take me over an hour to finish, easy....probably more

if someone has the time and finds that sort of thing fun....then i'd say go for it
 
raisins said:
my main thing would be the time it would take to drill all those holes in a way that would look nice and not compromise the stick

64 holes.....first stick would take me over an hour to finish, easy....probably more

if someone has the time and finds that sort of thing fun....then i'd say go for it
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You really need a drill press & then chamfer the holes. That’s why I was saying I wouldn’t bother. Plus not sure which EWO stick tube it is, but feather lites have material removed already in a pattern, not sure what happens structurally when you drill a bunch of holes in it. Let’s say you could save a pound each & you weren’t really heavy then maybe. If it’s your thing & you’re tinkering & the customization adds enjoyment/ value go for it. But it may be worth a lot less to anyone else. Plus a wouldn’t sell it after that.
 
Bigterp said:
You really need a drill press & then chamfer the holes. That’s why I was saying I wouldn’t bother. Plus not sure which EWO stick tube it is, but feather lites have material removed already in a pattern, not sure what happens structurally when you drill a bunch of holes in it. Let’s say you could save a pound each & you weren’t really heavy then maybe. If it’s your thing & you’re tinkering & the customization adds enjoyment/ value go for it. But it may be worth a lot less to anyone else. Plus a wouldn’t sell it after that.
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yeah, i'd lay it out, hit it with a punch to make the bit behave, then vice/drill press it then hit it with one of those chamfer bits

too bad a higher grade aluminum tube (7075?) isn't readily available/cheap in a thinner wall thickness

someone here played around with like 1/16" tube and he was light and it held just fine
 
Based on the math I’m not gonna drill a single thing. I’ll stealth strip the sticks and call it a day! Thanks so much for the support and insights. It’s conversations like these that put this forum into its own league.
 
Bigterp said:
Plus the weight of the stealth strips, I don’t think I’d bother……… I’d make sure you had a decent pack & you’ll never notice that 6-8 oz savings….
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I wouldn't bother and I would foam the inside to quiet them so they would probably be an ounce heavier.
 
Bigterp said:
You really need a drill press & then chamfer the holes. That’s why I was saying I wouldn’t bother. Plus not sure which EWO stick tube it is, but feather lites have material removed already in a pattern, not sure what happens structurally when you drill a bunch of holes in it. Let’s say you could save a pound each & you weren’t really heavy then maybe. If it’s your thing & you’re tinkering & the customization adds enjoyment/ value go for it. But it may be worth a lot less to anyone else. Plus a wouldn’t sell it after that.
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You definitively need to chamfer the holes, and the time spent on the project is NOT worth the weight savings.
 
Instead of wrapping them, what about putting some foam inside the tube? Either spray foam or cylindrical window caulking stuff. I was going to do that on my Rebel Fab 1-stick if wrapping didn't deaden the ringing enough, but was able to get by without going that far. Some motorcyclists - especially v-twin and single-cylinder 'thumper' riders, will stuff their handlebars with sand or 'bar snakes' or various slimes, etc to deaden vibrations; shouldn't take quite that much to quiet them.
 
I wrapped the tubes and put some paracord without the core on them. This mad a HUGE improvement with noise but still allows for good traction of boots on the tread and standoffs on the bark. I’m very pleased and there was minimal added weight.

B8F81C32-18DB-429D-9B2D-A493365CD1B7.jpeg
 
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Jammintree said:
I’ve also contemplated drilling some holes in my sticks to reduce the weight. I’ve seen it successfully done with these sticks and EWO themselves have been doing it to the newer model. But I’d like to hear from users with firsthand experience before I do anything.
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Are they drilling holes? Or are you referring to the slits they are milling into the sticks without actually going through them (Feathersticks)?
 
J.P. said:
Are they drilling holes? Or are you referring to the slits they are milling into the sticks without actually going through them (Feathersticks)?
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EWO doesn't drill holes in the sticks, they cut grooves. I decided against any weight relief after doing the calculations. It would be a lot of work for minimal gain. EWO has shaved weight off every single element of the sticks and I can't and don't need to replicate that. As they are right now, these sticks are awesome; they are light enough and sturdy. I'm quite happy with what I have.
 
Jammintree said:
I wrapped the tubes and put some paracord without the core on them. This mad a HUGE improvement with noise but still allows for good traction of boots on the tread and standoffs on the bark. I’m very pleased and there was minimal added weight.

View attachment 82748
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that’s money right there! How difficult was it to remove the paracord core? I’ve never done that, but might want to sometime.
 
bfriendly said:
that’s money right there! How difficult was it to remove the paracord core? I’ve never done that, but might want to sometime.
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It’s incredibly easy to remove the core, it pulls right out.
 
bfriendly said:
that’s money right there! How difficult was it to remove the paracord core? I’ve never done that, but might want to sometime.
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Super easy. Cut it, grab the white inner fibers with your fingers or pliers or whatever, and 'milk' it out of the sheath. Often referred to as "gutted" paracord. I usually lightly melt the end of the sheath with a lighter once I've got it going so it doesn't unravel too much as I'm working. Lots of paracord content and tutorials on the web so I won't go into more depth, but it's a thing.
 
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