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Simple Rappel Device: Omega Pacific SBG

John RB

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
854
Location
Fort Washington, PA
In my own climbing, I have no reason to use anything but the Munter friction Hitch for rappel. But for anyone who prefers a simple alternative, I have been keeping my eye out for alternatives which are simple and effective and can't be dropped. With the JRB10 coupon code, its about $20 at RockNArbor.


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Great video as usual, John. I’ve used these for a long time and bought an additional handful of them when Omega Pacific closed for that spell. For folks looking to repel with a non-mechanical device I think these can’t be beat in terms of versatility.

On a side note, I was glad to see them (and other OP stuff) offered at RNA after finding my way there through your efforts.
 
Great video as usual, John. I’ve used these for a long time and bought an additional handful of them when Omega Pacific closed for that spell. For folks looking to repel with a non-mechanical device I think these can’t be beat in terms of versatility.

On a side note, I was glad to see them (and other OP stuff) offered at RNA after finding my way there through your efforts.
Cool to hear this. I am curious if you rigged the rope around the body the same as I did. Or if you did it differently?

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Cool to hear this. I am curious if you rigged the rope around the body the same as I did. Or if you did it differently?

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I did for sure. I am quite a bit heavier than you but that still works well for me on both the smaller ropes (what u urinalysis use when using the SBG) and the larger ones. Straight through the bottom hole and bight was too fast and and the middle hole held well but was too hard to get going and not as smooth.
 
Not able to watch the video at the moment, this is somewhat like a combo ATC and figure 8? Looks very interesting
 
Not able to watch the video at the moment, this is somewhat like a combo ATC and figure 8? Looks very interesting
It’s an ATC at heart but the frame below the slots for the rope is also made out of aluminum and has two carabiner holes so you can generate additional friction and configure the rope differently as needed.
 
I tie it to the inside of a harness leg loop to get it close to center and below the hitch, using the unused slot. You only need to put a bight of rope through the slot and over the bollard, no removal, or opening a carabiner.
IMG_6356.jpeg
 
I tie it to the inside of a harness leg loop to get it close to center and below the hitch, using the unused slot. You only need to put a bight of rope through the slot and over the bollard, no removal, or opening a carabiner.
View attachment 88470
Cool. Now, did your device come with the bollard? Or did you fashion that yourself? Because mine didn't come with anything except the device itself... as I showed it in the vid... no bollard.

As for the actual rappel, even though i can rappel without the figure 8ish wrap around the body of the device, I wanted to error on the side of too much friction rather than not enough.

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I tie it to the inside of a harness leg loop to get it close to center and below the hitch, using the unused slot. You only need to put a bight of rope through the slot and over the bollard, no removal, or opening a carabiner.
View attachment 88470
Brocky
Could you show in more detail your rope path through the SBG
Thanks.
 
Brocky
Could you show in more detail your rope path through the SBG
Thanks.
The more I look at this, it seems like maybe he's using it a different way. And am not saying it doesn't work, but as I understand the intended design, the device is loaded via a carabiner (with a load) placed thru one of the two holes. In the photo, it looks like the load is applied via the cordage which is tied to the unused slot, using the wall of the device as a load point, and that cord is also directly tied to the climbers saddle. If i got that right, i gotta say it's clever... no need to engage a carabiner... but I also doubt the manufacturer anticipated or tested that combination... loading the device that way.

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Seems like it would just be a bight through one slot that goes over the post in the orientation the picture shows. I think it might be better if the post were opposite the slot in use to help prevent the rope slipping off. Maybe you put a biner around the rope and through the open hole to capture it, for safety
 
The post is too long, and the distance between the slot and the post is too short for the rope to come off. Correct about it it being tied to the harness, and not using a carabiner. Quick on and off added friction, and the larger post is a better bend radius for the rope to run around.
IMG_6357.jpeg
IMG_6362.jpeg
 
Now that i think about it, post in would make it easier to find off, as the length of post wouldn't matter / be very short.

Thanks @Brocky
 
Am I correct in understanding that the main benefit over other devices such as an ATC or figure 8 that you’re trying to demonstrate is that if you tie it to the saddle it can’t be dropped? It looks like atc/figure 8 had a baby.
 
Can’t drop it, simply put a bight of rope through the slot and over the post, take out the slack, compress the friction hitch, and all of the load is on the device, no wear or heat on the cord.
That is promising. Before you showed it rigged, with just the bollard, I thought maybe you'd stick the bight through the center hole and loop it back over the bollard, for more friction. That might be too much though.

I like being able to lock off my figure-8, or double-rig it for added friction. I keep my figure-8 on a steel 'biner so I can pick it up with a magnet if I drop it. I think some of the rescue-8s have holes in the ears that would take a dummy cord. Or one of the similar variants, like a Petzel Pirana or Sterling ATS, that just stays on the 'biner.
 
John,
I saw in the video that you use a second bridge when using the Omega Pacific SGB and was wondering if you had tried the device attached to a Linemans loop via carabiner? I'm thinking about using my rappel rope as my tether this year and instead of using my figure 8 to rappel purchasing the SGB so I can attach it below my hitch as you did in the video but possibly attaching it with the carabiner to a lineman loop. I'm curious how this might work or feel during the rappel. When I rappel I basically just walk down the tree retrieving my sticks as I go down. this SGB looks like it would be a good back up for my hitch when feeding the rope as I drop down. If a second bridge is necessary would it work to attach it to the lineman loops by girth hitching one side and carabiner the other side? This would be a fixed bridge from am steel just for the SGB to attach too.
I appreciate the videos you put out and the information you provide you have helped this almost 65 year old learn and expand my fun saddle hunting.
 
John,
I saw in the video that you use a second bridge when using the Omega Pacific SGB and was wondering if you had tried the device attached to a Linemans loop via carabiner? I'm thinking about using my rappel rope as my tether this year and instead of using my figure 8 to rappel purchasing the SGB so I can attach it below my hitch as you did in the video but possibly attaching it with the carabiner to a lineman loop. I'm curious how this might work or feel during the rappel. When I rappel I basically just walk down the tree retrieving my sticks as I go down. this SGB looks like it would be a good back up for my hitch when feeding the rope as I drop down. If a second bridge is necessary would it work to attach it to the lineman loops by girth hitching one side and carabiner the other side? This would be a fixed bridge from am steel just for the SGB to attach too.
I appreciate the videos you put out and the information you provide you have helped this almost 65 year old learn and expand my fun saddle hunting.
Young man,
I would never attach anything to a lineman's loop except a lineman's belt. Anything that could support our weight must be attached evenly to both bridge loops. Anyone can fashion a short 2nd bridge out of a simple 60cm web sling and a carabiner. And thanks for your comments.

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Young man,
I would never attach anything to a lineman's loop except a lineman's belt. Anything that could support our weight must be attached evenly to both bridge loops. Anyone can fashion a short 2nd bridge out of a simple 60cm web sling and a carabiner. And thanks for your comments.

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Why not use a single side loop?
 
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