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Single device for ascending and descending (rappel)

T

tmattson

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
South East Michigan
If you wanted to use only one single mechanical device to ascend and descend (rappel used most for descend), what would it be, or what are you currently using if you already do so. Just wanting to simply as much as possible and also have the safest method, not having to worry about what knot to use, etc.
Rope either 8mm or 9mm.
 
8mm rope will limit your options.

Do you already have any equipment?

If you don’t want to worry about what knot to use, I would discourage you from using these methods. Knots have different purposes and knowing which one to use in the situation is key as well as how to tie them properly.

Using mechanical devices should not absolve you of the responsibility of learning how to safely apply knots. Learning the knots will help you understand what you’re doing and it could save your life or save you from a bad time.
 
NikoTheBowHunter said:
Figure 8 tied off as an auto lock. Doesn’t matter the rope size, soon as you let go, locks up. Can easily be used for both climbing up and rappelling down. It’s what I use along with a back up prusik cord. See last option from RopeLab to see how it works.

Figure-8 Descenders | RopeLab Online

www.ropelab.com.au www.ropelab.com.au

View attachment 21316View attachment 21317View attachment 21318
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Can you tie that on the rope while the friction hitch is holding your weight?

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tmattson said:
If you wanted to use only one single mechanical device to ascend and descend (rappel used most for descend), what would it be, or what are you currently using if you already do so. Just wanting to simply as much as possible and also have the safest method, not having to worry about what knot to use, etc.
Rope either 8mm or 9mm.
Click to expand...
Are you ascending a rope or climbing sticks or steps? If climbing a rope, I think you need two devices.
 
ThereWillBeSpuds said:
Can you tie that on the rope while the friction hitch is holding your weight?

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Yup. Just pass the rope through the big hole of the figure 8 and twist it over the smaller diameter hole. Then pull up on the tag end of the rope to bring it up tight. As it shows in the picture above, the figure 8 and prusik are both under load when sitting at hunting height (both would have to fail to have something bad happen). When I’m done for the day, I release the prusik then slowly rappel down.
 
NikoTheBowHunter said:
Figure 8 tied off as an auto lock. Doesn’t matter the rope size, soon as you let go, locks up. Can easily be used for both climbing up and rappelling down. It’s what I use along with a back up prusik cord. See last option from RopeLab to see how it works.

Figure-8 Descenders | RopeLab Online

www.ropelab.com.au www.ropelab.com.au

View attachment 21316View attachment 21317View attachment 21318
Click to expand...
I'm assuming by last option you're referring to the "auto stop" mode? Just wanted to clarify.

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tmattson said:
If you wanted to use only one single mechanical device to ascend and descend (rappel used most for descend), what would it be, or what are you currently using if you already do so. Just wanting to simply as much as possible and also have the safest method, not having to worry about what knot to use, etc.
Rope either 8mm or 9mm.
Click to expand...

In terms of simple, I’ve climbed using only a friction hitch (to my bridge) and a long loop of webbing tied to the climbing line using a klemheist knot. That becomes the foot loop. With this you just stand/sit so you can slide each friction hitch one at a time to inch up the rope.

then to get down the only other devices you need are a belay device to repel and the carabiner for it. I hook that to my bridge and the main friction hitch to one of my lineman’s belt loops. May need an adjustable bridge to make that work though, and climbing would certainly be faster and easier with an ascender
 
I just got a safeguard and tested it in the garage. It looks like it will be the perfect device for an SRT system. I will probably stay connected to it on my platform and just tie a knot below it.

Because it is the springless version of the lifeguard it is designed to automatically stop if you let go.


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robstewart said:
I just got a safeguard and tested it in the garage. It looks like it will be the perfect device for an SRT system. I will probably stay connected to it on my platform and just tie a knot below it.

Because it is the springless version of the lifeguard it is designed to automatically stop if you let go.


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I am using a grigri, and its really nice so far. I just bought a figure 8 as backup in case something happens to my grigri. I dont want to be stuck up a tree in the woods.

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ThereWillBeSpuds said:
I am using a grigri, and its really nice so far. I just bought a figure 8 as backup in case something happens to my grigri. I dont want to be stuck up a tree in the woods.

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I started with using prusiks to climb and a figure 8 to rappel. BTW you can rappel with just a caribiner, we used to do that in the army. Have a look on youtube how to do it. Not that a figure 8 is heavy but it's one less piece of kit.
 
robstewart said:
I started with using prusiks to climb and a figure 8 to rappel. BTW you can rappel with just a caribiner, we used to do that in the army. Have a look on youtube how to do it. Not that a figure 8 is heavy but it's one less piece of kit.
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Sure, but the fig8 will provide you a smoother rappel, under more control with less wear on your climbing line. So worth the weight, no doubt. Absolutley one should know how to rapp with just the carabiner though (munter hitch).
 
Anyone willing to share a link to a video about rappelling with just a caribiner?

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ThereWillBeSpuds said:
Anyone willing to share a link to a video about rappelling with just a caribiner?

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This looks like a good one. Note in this video he is using double rope, but it works the same with single rope. Note the comments about kinks in the rope, and interfering with gear. Good points.

 
pesqimon said:
Sure, but the fig8 will provide you a smoother rappel, under more control with less wear on your climbing line. So worth the weight, no doubt. Absolutley one should know how to rapp with just the carabiner though (munter hitch).
Click to expand...

I’m not worried about wear on my rope since it’s a backup method that I would hope to never use.

Also I was recently schooled by an arborist who works at my local outdoor activity store where I bought my rope and he explained why climbing rope isn’t as good as actual arborist rope for wear so next year I’m going to invest in arborist rope.


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robstewart said:
I’m not worried about wear on my rope since it’s a backup method that I would hope to never use.

Also I was recently schooled by an arborist who works at my local outdoor activity store where I bought my rope and he explained why climbing rope isn’t as good as actual arborist rope for wear so next year I’m going to invest in arborist rope.


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Care to share the insight? What rope do you use now and which do you plan to purchase?
 
pesqimon said:
Care to share the insight? What rope do you use now and which do you plan to purchase?
Click to expand...

I’m using: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4001-886/11mm-KMIII-Nylon-Static-Rope in black.

The arborist at the Barrie store explained that ropes have a strength ratio between core and sheath. In the case of an arborist rope the core has a higher percentage of the strength and the sheath is designed for being pulled through trees.

A climbing rope I was told has a higher amount of strength in the sheath and is more susceptible to damage and therefore a higher amount of strength is lost.

Seemed to make sense after I did some further reading.


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robstewart said:
I’m using: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4001-886/11mm-KMIII-Nylon-Static-Rope in black.

The arborist at the Barrie store explained that ropes have a strength ratio between core and sheath. In the case of an arborist rope the core has a higher percentage of the strength and the sheath is designed for being pulled through trees.

A climbing rope I was told has a higher amount of strength in the sheath and is more susceptible to damage and therefore a higher amount of strength is lost.

Seemed to make sense after I did some further reading.


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Makes sense.

After your comment, I checked the Sterling website, and was happy to see 9mm HTP (my choice of rope) listed under their "arborist" offerings. For whatever that is worth.
 
I sure that is correct arborist ropes are better and hTp 9 mm sounds great but I have hunted 7 times this fall. So the wear on my rope compared to someone who uses it daily is large. I don’t carry a chain saw to the tree either

Now my corn is done I hope to double my fall hunting. From 7 days to 14. Still maybe 3 weeks of wear for an arborist

Oplux 8 mm or 8 mm ultra tech are lighter and more compact


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