Single string set ups

[Allegheny Tom]

Thanks for the info guys. I like the size of the kmag but that makes sense. I draw over 28” so I account for the weight stack but I hadn’t thought about finger pinch at those small angles. I’ll stay away from the kmag.

In case it wasn't already mentioned, your draw length will usually be shorter when going from a wheel bow to trad. I think I lost about an inch and a half.

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[gcr0003]

I have the hardest time trying to pin point my draw length.

 

[Jtaylor]

I may be wrong saying this but I'm able to hold my bow in my left hand (being right eye dominant) with a bend in my elbow depending on draw length and shoot just about any draw length bow. I can shoot my wife's 25" draw bow just as well as a 29". When it comes to a recurve/longbow you're only limited on what the builder's/manufacturers max draw length is, correct? As long as you're not over drawing the bow and as long as the anchor point doesn't move from bow to bow and shot to shot ya should be good to go. The draw lengths and poundage are just a benchmark to go off.

 

[Vtbow]

I may be wrong saying this but I'm able to hold my bow in my left hand (being right eye dominant) with a bend in my elbow depending on draw length and shoot just about any draw length bow. I can shoot my wife's 25" draw bow just as well as a 29". When it comes to a recurve/longbow you're only limited on what the builder's/manufacturers max draw length is, correct? As long as you're not over drawing the bow and as long as the anchor point doesn't move from bow to bow and shot to shot ya should be good to go. The draw lengths and poundage are just a benchmark to go off.

I have a hard time shooting with an overly bent elbow and being accurate. it causes my form to change, and torques my shoulde pretty bad. I aslo find the more you bend your left elbow(when right handed) it causes your left hand to turn clockwise more, and cant your bow more, which form me changes point of aim. Just doesnt feel natural to me, and key to consistency(in my opinion) is a natural, repeatable form that I don't have to think about.

 

[gcr0003]

I have a hard time shooting with an overly bent elbow and being accurate. it causes my form to change, and torques my shoulde pretty bad. I aslo find the more you bend your left elbow(when right handed) it causes your left hand to turn clockwise more, and cant your bow more, which form me changes point of aim. Just doesnt feel natural to me, and key to consistency(in my opinion) is a natural, repeatable form that I don't have to think about.

With no bend you have to wear an arm guard though?

 

[Vtbow]

With no bend you have to wear an arm guard though?

I dont lock my elbow, just stick it out naturally. I ALWAYS wear a bracer though shooting trad gear. With proper form it doesnt hit(except with my recluse when I torque my grip, which has just under a 6" BH though!). I had an arrow snap on release and the back half of the shaft bounce off the top of my forarm leaving a nasty bruise and cut a couple summers ago. If it had gone 1/2 inch lower it would have impaled my forearm...right where the bracer should have been.

 

[Gumbymedic]

I am new to traditional archery. I bought a SA Spyder recurve (Samick Sage 2) and have been practicing with it for fun. Due to a shoulder injury that doesn't seem to be getting any better, I am thinking of selling my Reign 6 and switching over to traditional. (either that or crossing over to the dark side...crossbow) The traditional bows don't seem to bother my shoulder at all and I am starting to fall for Hill style longbow. I shot a Bear Montana (55 @ 28) the other day and got a bullseye at 10 yds on the first shot. All of my dozen shots after that were in the circle. The arrow I was using I had just randomly grabbed out of the bin. I've never had that happen before where I just pull out a bow and shoot so well. I'm not sure about just getting a Montana or biting the bullet and ordering a custom. Any thoughts on that? I may be hitting you guys up with other questions on the way if you don't mind.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I have a hard time shooting with an overly bent elbow and being accurate. it causes my form to change, and torques my shoulde pretty bad. I aslo find the more you bend your left elbow(when right handed) it causes your left hand to turn clockwise more, and cant your bow more, which form me changes point of aim. Just doesnt feel natural to me, and key to consistency(in my opinion) is a natural, repeatable form that I don't have to think about.

Me too.
I shoot best when I fully push a straight arm at the target with my elbow and shoulder locked in place, before I even begin the draw.

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[brentbarclay]

68" Liberty English longbow 47# @ 30"
6 strand SBD string w/ small catwisker silencers
31.5" Trad Only 400 carbon
3-5" parabolic feathers, Bohning classic nocks
75 grain brass glue in/on adapters
160 grain Cutthroat single bevel heads

 

[Bigfoot522]

It's hard to give advise over the phone but this is a favorite of mine. Proper hold with a fully drawn arm.
Next time you are at a shoot, watch the good shooters, their elbows point behind them. The mediocre shooters will have an elbow that is near 90 degrees to their body or somewhere in between on the way to proper draw.
Draw your bow in front of a mirror normally and see, then draw until you see your elbow extended back, you will feel your shoulder kind of " ball" up at a point. You may not feel your back muscles immediately but as you practice this draw you will begin to feel your back muscles along with that certain feel in your shoulder, a feel you don't get at lesser extension.
Your bow arm should feel like your going to brush the string on your clothes more so than out in front of you with too much triangle. This puts your bow arm into bad alignment.
My bow arm is extended and feels just like if you lean one handed on a post.
Just extended but not pushing into hypertension.
I hope this helps one person.
Good luck.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

60" Allegheny Mountain Recurve 52# @ 27". B50 flemish string with beaver balls string silencers.
Bow was built by local bowyer Bill Kerner whom allowed me to participate in building the bow. Bill made bows for ~40 years until he retired and sold the design.
I love the bow. Side story... On one hunt, I had the bow hanging on a small stub of a branch that SEEMED secure. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw the branch break and the bow fell 20 feet and hit the ground hard...SH!+.
I thought it just had to be damaged.
I climbed down looked it over and cautiously drew and tested it for damage. It was fine. 3 hours later, I killed 4 year old 8 point. Try that with a gadget bow!
28" tapered carbon shafts...Alaska Bowhunting Supply Sitkas, Three 5" LW helical feathers.
Currently shooting 150 grain single bevel Samurai heads, 545gr TAW, 18.5 % FOC, but I recently bought 200 grain Samurai and will convert to right wing/right bevel.
I would like to build some adult arrows so I'm wanting to add 100 grains and increase FOC 6 to 10 percent more.
I shoot off the shelf.

 

[gcr0003]

I just picked these up today. One of them will be my go to soon enough.

 

[Bigfoot522]

This is my rig. Sweet shooter.

I was out shooting the range this afternoon enjoying the sound of the run off.

I shot wearing my climbing rig and climbed a tree along the way.
60 degrees in Waukesha today!

 

[Vtbow]

What limbs you getting with the titan. I had a titan it was awesome.


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So I thought I'd follow up on this. The limbs are OMP reaper, #50(nothing special from what I've read). This thing feels so unsubstantial compared to the blocky bighorn, but still somehow extremely comfortable in my palm.

 

[Bigfoot522]

There's alot of Tradtech risers out in the world. They have a big following. I would be shooting one but I got a Das first and they are so similar in geometry.
Nice riser, good platform for any limb of your choice.

 

[Vtbow]

There's alot of Tradtech risers out in the world. They have a big following. I would be shooting one but I got a Das first and they are so similar in geometry.
Nice riser, good platform for any limb of your choice.

Thanks. It feels a little "dead" in my hand as I'm a woodguy. Wooden boats, ex furniture maker, wood trad bows. I'm glad the previous owner pit a wood hoyt grip on it well see. I'm probably selling a bunch of my other bows to force myself to commit to ILF, otherwise, I know myself and I won't give it a fair shot...

 

[gcr0003]

So I thought I'd follow up on this. The limbs are OMP reaper, #50(nothing special from what I've read). This thing feels so unsubstantial compared to the blocky bighorn, but still somehow extremely comfortable in my palm.
View attachment 26009View attachment 26010

I was told these were frowned upon by the trad purists ha! The first bow I picked up a few months ago had a riser with the cut away like that and I was told it was too easy to shoot, and that it was not a real “one string”. That kinda peeved me because I was picking it up fairly quickly (maybe because it was more forgiving). I ended up selling it but not for that reason. I’m restarting on a wood recurve and trying to fine tune form then I think I’d like to get a modern take down Recurve I guess like what you got pictured there. It still amazes me that anywhere you go, and any hobby you pick up, there are those that are big try hards trying to ruin the fun. Nice bow! Happy shooting.

 

[Vtbow]

I was told these were frowned upon by the trad purists ha! The first bow I picked up a few months ago had a riser with the cut away like that and I was told it was too easy to shoot, and that it was not a real “one string”. That kinda peeved me because I was picking it up fairly quickly (maybe because it was more forgiving). I ended up selling it but not for that reason. I’m restarting on a wood recurve and trying to fine tune form then I think I’d like to get a modern take down Recurve I guess like what you got pictured there. It still amazes me that anywhere you go, and any hobby you pick up, there are those that are big try hards trying to ruin the fun. Nice bow! Happy shooting.

Eh, all my wood takedown risers are cut past center. Males it a hell of a lot easier to tune, no archers paradox if all is good. Oh, and my wood risers are all from the 80s or early 90s, so "vintage". Shoot what works for you. "Trad" is a fad. People in the 50s and 60s shot "trad" because it's what existed. People who could afford a cimpound when they cam out transitioned. Hell, Fred bear shot a compound for a while. It's all archery.

 

[Bigfoot522]

This not my first forum, I been in on and read years of discussion about what is traditional.
Metal risers go back before most people on this forum were born.
Sights were used on bows. There are pictures of a young Fred Bear with a sight on a bow.
Bows were and are made bottom heavy, When I first started making bows I went for a balanced bow but prefer bottom heavy. It's a preference.
Some bows were made with stabilizers.
Elevated tests were also used.
My club allows elevated rests but you can't have a sling or any external/ add on weight or it's not considered Trad. Quite the joke because the most useful of the three is the rest, you can even shoot vanes if you use a rest!
Oh, you shoot good because of a lil hot dog stabilizer. Again a joke.
A good shooter will beat yourn with hisun and he will beat hisun with yourn.
I shot a Black bear with a 25" #42 Olympic target bow without all the add ins, we call them Bare bows. I love shooting it just as much so I decided to take her on a hunt. Blew right through.
Dance with the girl you brought.
And last of all, friends dont get drawn into this debate as it is usually started by someone that has no idea about the evolution of the bow.

 

[joel0711]

Older Kodiak Hunter 45# with flipper 2 rest