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SRT Climbing using a Guide ATC

valerio024

valerio024

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Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
546
Location
Southwest Michigan
I recently went down a rabbit hole searching for different ways to climb SRT. I came across a method for SRT climbing used by rock climbers and mountaineers that utilizes a guide atc to ascend the rope. The guide ATC essentially replaces a Safeguard/Gri Gri/etc. in a typical SRT set-up. I can climb just as fast with the guide atc as I can with a safeguard. The nice thing about this set-up is that it's half the cost (or less) of a safeguard. Here's a video I made demonstrating the method. Let me know what you think.
 
I like how this can get folks into it for a lower price point. Obviously, compared to some of the mechanical devices, one needs to be on top of their game to hook and unhook things in the proper order.
 
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Just bought a Black Diamond Guide ATC. Looking to practice with it this off-season. I'm using Resc Tech rope with the ATC backed up with an autoblock.
 
arm breaker said:
I like how this can get folks into it for a lower price point. Obviously, compared to some of the mechanical devices, one needs to be on top of their game to hook snd unhook things in the proper order.
Click to expand...

You got that right. Pro - price point. Con - extra steps and time.


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I tried that when I was a beginning climber and tried to come down the rope in guide mode. It was hard to release and I got stuck up the rope until I figured out how to get down. I bought SRT components from someone here which had a GriGri. Once I used the GriGri, I saw no point in going back to the ATC. With the GriGri or any of this type of device, no re-configuring is necessary. I think for a beginning climber, the ATC guide mode method might get them stuck. Is it worth it? For me, no. When I'm hunting, I just want something to work with no trouble. If I have to reconfigure something in the dark, I would rather not. The belay devices are a store of value and can easily be sold here or on a climbing forum for a small loss from the new price.
 
bj139 said:
I tried that when I was a beginning climber and tried to come down the rope in guide mode. It was hard to release and I got stuck up the rope until I figured out how to get down.
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I'm a bit confused...you can't go down in guide mode, it literally locks it up unless the device is unweighted. It's as straightforward as using a Gri Gri for ascending unless you decide you need to go down mid climb (which I don't think many people do), then the extra steps come into play. When it comes to rappelling down from your platform the only extra step is tying on the prusik or autoblock, not a lot of work. For some guys the cost benefits outweigh the hassle.
 
valerio024 said:
I'm a bit confused...you can't go down in guide mode, it literally locks it up unless the device is unweighted. It's as straightforward as using a Gri Gri for ascending unless you decide you need to go down mid climb (which I don't think many people do), then the extra steps come into play. When it comes to rappelling down from your platform the only extra step is tying on the prusik or autoblock, not a lot of work. For some guys the cost benefits outweigh the hassle.
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You can release the ATC in guide mode by pulling down with a sling tied to the release hole. As I noobie at climbing I did not know this. This seems to be more of an expert climbing method once you have a lot of experience. Once again, I am just relating what happened to me when I started trying to go cheap. For a noobie, I don't think being cheap is the safest way. If you have a lot of experience it looks like the ATC / SRT would be fun to try. The way you do it looks very safe.
 
So I played with the guide mode ATC this week (I used it exclusively on a summer climbing trip in the Tetons and loved the simplicity vs the Gri-Gri). The switch from ascend to descend was a bit cumbersome at first, but got easier with some practice. I didn't mess with trying to go back into ascend - would you just recommend going all the way back down after making the switch or just reversing the same procedure (transferring weight into the foot loop) and switching back into guide mode when ready to keep going up?

To me, that is the clear edge on the Gri-Gri - you just go up or down without any setup changes. I still don't know which I'm going to use more - I guess much of it comes down to how often I find needing to change direction the more time.

Gri-Gri is definitely seems noisier and heavier (and I like nothing mechanical in the ATC), but it is sure nice to go up and down at will!
 
I didn’t like that the biner thru the rope flops back and forth when changing directions hitting the guide biner or the ATC and making noise. Otherwise, it’s a really smooth ascent.

Like BJ, I tried rappelling in guide mode with a third biner and also a sling, didn’t work great for me…was either fully locked or fully unlocked, which is less than ideal. One butt bounce from 6” off the ground was enough for me!


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FrankNess14 said:
Yeah I like this, but was trying to come up with a way to not have to tie a hitch in the dark for SRT. Any other methods?
Click to expand...
Pretie the hitch and slide it down when installing the line. The method above puts a bend in the rope so any ascender use would have to be above the hitch, which would work with a sit-stand system, like the RADs. I typically use a foot ascender, or my foot as an ascender to go shorter distances so need something that doesn’t bend the rope.

A hitch tied on a figure eight works the same without the bend, but the rope has to be installed. The Sticht hitch is another cheap option for ascending and descending.
0B6CCB50-0BB3-4013-8633-F6A922F4C658.jpeg
 
I found the ATC guide to be pretty nice for SRT, but as previously mentioned it can be a pain to switch from ascent to descent. I tried both using the toggle with a binder or sling and transition in and out of guide mode while suspended. I always used a 3rd hand below it for safety.
Another con for me was that once I reached hunting height the ATC doesn’t hold my position and adding a friction hitch like seen above stretches so much that I have to place my tether height higher than desired to account for it. Also dislike the need for 2 biners when in guide mode.
I think it works well to go up, switch over to a different attachment method (friction hitch, ropeman, figure 8, etc), then switch back to it to rappel down.


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