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Srt with oplux

20ftup

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Joined
Aug 18, 2017
Messages
430
Is anyone using srt with oplux? I seen the pretzel hand ascender will work but was wonder if there were any belay device rated for 8mm similar to the giri or safeguard.


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Is anyone using srt with oplux? I seen the pretzel hand ascender will work but was wonder if there were any belay device rated for 8mm similar to the giri or safeguard.


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I doubt you’ll get them to put it in writing but I spoke with Sterling about using belay devices with the 8mm OpLux. They said (I’m paraphrasing) the devices are typically only rated down to 9mm because 99% of the available ropes are that size of larger. OpLux is one of the first ropes on the scene uses newer fiber tech for rappelling applications. They didn’t see any reason why the Safeguard wouldn’t work with OpLux but I’d encourage you to call them yourself.


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I doubt you’ll get them to put it in writing but I spoke with Sterling about using belay devices with the 8mm OpLux. They said (I’m paraphrasing) the devices are typically only rated down to 9mm because 99% of the available ropes are that size of larger. OpLux is one of the first ropes on the scene uses newer fiber tech for rappelling applications. They didn’t see any reason why the Safeguard wouldn’t work with OpLux but I’d encourage you to call them yourself.


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Search youtube for canyonlux and lifeguard. It's been tested by a *very* reputable tester. interpret the test results as you will.
 
Yep, tracking. Still not technically rated for 8mm.


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Correct. Better than many devices a lot of people here are using - but not rated. It's up to the user to evaluate any such tests and whether they find them sufficient.
 
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My 50 feet of Sterling 9mm HTP weighs 2.1 pounds, 50 feet of Sterling Oplux 8mm weighs 1.4 lbs.... until they make devices for 8mm rope I think I'll carry the extra 11.2 ounces....just saying!
 
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My 50 feet of Sterling 9mm HTP weighs 2.1 pounds, 50 feet of Sterling Oplux 8mm weighs 1.4 lbs.... until they make devices for 8mm rope I think I'll carry the extra 11.2 ounces....just saying!
There are ascenders rated for 8mm (kong duck, ropeman 2, petzl ascension and peobably most hand ascenders...). There are rapelling devices as well. If you are ok to switch devices between going up and going down, you can stay in spec.

Note: the properly rated ascenders will in many/most cases almost certainly damage the rope sooner and fail at lower loads than the safeguard shown.
 
The rope ‘fails’ almost at 2000lb force. OSHA maximum fall arresting force on a human in a body belt is 4kn(900lbs). Why? Do you know what happens to your body if you generate 2000lb of force when you fall and then stop that fall with a static rope?

that number goes up double(8kn) with a 5pt harness, which distributes the load more evenly across your body.

you can interpret the test however you want. What is not up for interpretation is what will happen to your body if you fall far enough in a saddle to generate 2000lb of fall force.

how far does a 250lb person have to fall to generate 8kn? Just over two feet.

the test performed in the video is an important one. It relates to what we do in certain ways. It does not translate into ‘rope breaking at 8kn is not good enough for saddle hunting’.

Someone is going to break their neck or back saddle hunting because they think that their rope being capable of withstanding 2000lb or force will protect them in a fall that generates that much force. Please be careful.
 
The rope ‘fails’ almost at 2000lb force. OSHA maximum fall arresting force on a human in a body belt is 4kn(900lbs). Why? Do you know what happens to your body if you generate 2000lb of force when you fall and then stop that fall with a static rope?

that number goes up double(8kn) with a 5pt harness, which distributes the load more evenly across your body.

you can interpret the test however you want. What is not up for interpretation is what will happen to your body if you fall far enough in a saddle to generate 2000lb of fall force.

how far does a 250lb person have to fall to generate 8kn? Just over two feet.

the test performed in the video is an important one. It relates to what we do in certain ways. It does not translate into ‘rope breaking at 8kn is not good enough for saddle hunting’.

Someone is going to break their neck or back saddle hunting because they think that their rope being capable of withstanding 2000lb or force will protect them in a fall that generates that much force. Please be careful.
Ropeman cutting the rope at 4KN? That's concerning, a bit close for my comfort, and a failure mode that I don't like. The results of those tests? I'm more than comfortable with that device/rope combination (I'll break before it does, and if I put myself in position to generate greater loads I need to add something to dissipate those loads). In general, (toothed) ascenders are going to fail at around 6KN.

It's certainly a safe and reasonable approach to use only devices certified for a given diameter rope, and in the manner in which they are designed/certified. It's also useful to look into what that certification means, and hunt down test results of similar devices (whether used according to directions, or "misused") for comparison.
 
I like the belay devices that slip at 4kN. A slight slip will absorb some of the force on a fall. The Safeguard is not as good in that case and in fact damages the rope.
 
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