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Suggestions for simple/first time SRT setup

Swingin' Free

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
631
Location
Central NY
I'm looking to try SRT for next season. I have been checking out the various threads and just keep getting more confused/intimated. I plan on using presets but still want the option to "pick it and sit it" on a whim.
I know ya'll can help me out....
Thanks in advance ️
 
I'm looking to try SRT for next season. I have been checking out the various threads and just keep getting more confused/intimated. I plan on using presets but still want the option to "pick it and sit it" on a whim.
I know ya'll can help me out....
Thanks in advance ️
First of all, I'm quite new to this. This means 2 things: I'm probably missing something important, but I'm hopefully remembering basics that long timers might forget to mention.
  • Well, the first thing you need is some rope. Climbing rated. Static. Sterling HTP 9mm is what I have and is well regarded. You need at least enough to get up to your tie-in point around the tree, with some left over to make a loop on the end.
  • Next thing you need is a way to get it up in the tree. For presets you can use e.g. paracord loops, for hunting on the fly and otherwise climbing unprepped trees, you need to get a cord over a limb and/or around the tree above hunting height. For this you need a weighty object attached to some cord. Normally this is a throw bag with throw line. You need this to be at LEAST twice as long as you plan to fix your line, and probably want it longer. Some people have used/tried things like fishing weights and fishing line, along with a slingshot, but get the fundamentals first. Too thin of a line bites into the tree bark and your hand.
Pick a branch, the sturdier the better, at or above hunting height. Your goal is to get your climbing rope anchored here, and you start by by getting your smaller, lighter, easier to place throw line up there. If the limb is strong enough to clearly support you NO QUESTIONS ASKED, then you can use it for support directly. Otherwise you need to use the main body of the tree so the trunk, not the branch takes the weight. Whichever you choose, you want use the throw line to pull the rope into position, and girth-hitch the climbing rope around your chosen anchor point.

Throw your throw bag over the branch, with your throw-line attached. You want to "isolate" your tie-in point, so that you can form a girth hitch with ONLY your chosen branch or the main trunk of the tree "in the loop". If the tree has a lot of branches, you might need to throw the bag over/around more than once. Once your anchor point is isolated, remove the throw bag from the throwing line, and tie on your climbing rope. Pull the rope up and over your limb, and pull the line through a loop/eye/delta link, etc. A delta link is nice (makes the rope easier to pull down when done) but you can just knot it for now.

Once you have the rope safely anchored, you need to climb it. You need 2 ascending devices. You can make this work with knots if needed! A favorite combination for righties is a left-hand petzl ascension and a madrock safeguard, which also acts as a rappel device to descend. The petzl ascender you hang a foot loop/aider from the bottom (easy to make, or buy). This is the device that you pull yourself up with (by simultaneously pulling down and stepping down). It also makes it easier to hang a pully or carabiner from this to route the "brake end" of your climbing rope through, but you can get by without

The safeguard, you want to attach to a "short bridge" with a carabiner - this keeps the safeguard away from the petzl ascender on the rope, and in front of you where you can operate it. You should also attach the petzl ascender to your bridge to provide for redundancy on ascent. Otherwise you're relying 100% on the safeguard.

Basic equipment list:
  • Madrock safeguard
  • petzl left-hand ascension
  • way to make a short bridge. I use an 18.5 in "hollowblock" looped through my bridge loops, with a carabiner to connect to the safeguard.
  • Either a foot aider like a petzl footape, or some webbing/accessory cord to make one.
  • carry a couple of hollowblocks, prusik loops, carabiners, etc. that aren't used when your SRT rig is in use, and have a contingency plan to use them if you do something like drop an ascender/safeguard

Starting from 0 the whole concept of SRT gear selection and acquisition is SOOO much more intimidating than the reality, as you're dealing with so many completely foreign words. HOWEVER - if you don't have a climbing background, PLEASE take things super slow, safe, and redundant to make sure that you don't inadvertently misuse something, or overlook something with serious safety implications. Start low and slow. carry backups, and get experience. Watch what others are doing and refine your system. You've got months to work on it, and in practice it is SUPER SIMPLE and not nearly as equipment-heavy as people make it out to be. But your life is hanging on a piece or rope and some mechanical doodads - respect that.
 
I’m wanting to try this method as well but believe in redundancy. If you added a blakes above one of the ascenders and attached it to your bridge/harness would it be easy enough for it to get pushed up the rope by the ascender? And then on the rappel how hard would it be to leave it on and slide it down, or is it better to just tie on an auto block for the rappel?
 
I'm looking to try SRT for next season. I have been checking out the various threads and just keep getting more confused/intimated. I plan on using presets but still want the option to "pick it and sit it" on a whim.
I know ya'll can help me out....
Thanks in advance ️
In my opinion, maybe outside of spurs, SRT is the absolutely the least strenuous method to climb I have used. The only downside to it for me is for the as you say "pick and sit" opportunities. Most of my hunts are this style and I have yet to find a good way to get the rope in the tree for these sits. If I could master that I would only use SRT. That said I didn't use SRT once this year because of the aforementioned issue.
 
I’m wanting to try this method as well but believe in redundancy. If you added a blakes above one of the ascenders and attached it to your bridge/harness would it be easy enough for it to get pushed up the rope by the ascender? And then on the rappel how hard would it be to leave it on and slide it down, or is it better to just tie on an auto block for the rappel?
An autoblock is redundancy. The safeguard instructions say to not connect a knot below it (or risk damage). Starting a thread to collect opinions on the acceptability of an autoblock below the safeguard was on my To-do list for this week.

On the ascent as long as you connect both ascending devices to your saddle you are redundant to that extent. Or a hitch above the hand ascender.
 
I tried paracord the only thing I found that it snagged a lot. I found a solution to the problem that works really well. Use masonry string it works and is very cheap. You could also use it for your throw line too. I’m really starting to like this method.
 
I was watching it since this am, just trying to find a way to convince the wife I "need" o
it.... Looks like I snoozed. I missed a $27 petzl ascender last night too
 
I tried paracord the only thing I found that it snagged a lot. I found a solution to the problem that works really well. Use masonry string it works and is very cheap. You could also use it for your throw line too. I’m really starting to like this method.

You could just buy purpose built throw line. Petzl airline is just one of several brands available.

https://www.amazon.com/Petzl-AIRLINE-rope-throw-line/dp/B00JWZKA2C


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The safeguard, you want to attach to a "short bridge" with a carabiner - this keeps the safeguard away from the petzl ascender on the rope, and in front of you where you can operate it. You should also attach the petzl ascender to your bridge to provide for redundancy on ascent. Otherwise you're relying 100% on the safeguard.

For @Swingin' Free 's reference, this method is known as RADS
https://www.newtribe.com/documents/tip4.htm
 
Anybody have any recommendations on the gri gri or safeguard? Is either better for our use? Are there any comparable options? Is there anything you can hang on once at height or is switching over to a ropeman or hitch on your tether necessary no matter what you choose?
 
I have the safeguard and really like it. I will only be using it for ascention and repelling though. Plan to use a tether and rooeman for that. You could probably use it as that, but I'd tie a butterfly knot below it for safety reasons. There are other ways to lock it in but then you are losing the adjustment of it.
 
I have the safeguard and really like it. I will only be using it for ascention and repelling though. Plan to use a tether and rooeman for that. You could probably use it as that, but I'd tie a butterfly knot below it for safety reasons. There are other ways to lock it in but then you are losing the adjustment of it.

The paperwork accompanying my Safegurd specified that a knot should never be used below it.
 
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