Tell me your Lansky secrets

[HaunSolo]

Tell me how you sharpen your broadheads using the Lansky sharpening system.

I received my sharpening system yesterday and after watching multiple videos and reading the instructions I went to work on my stingers. I must've worked on the one stinger for two hours and I couldn't ever get it to shave.

I know somebody here has an SOP!

 

[Blacksmith]

Tell me how you sharpen your broadheads using the Lansky sharpening system.

I received my sharpening system yesterday and after watching multiple videos and reading the instructions I went to work on my stingers. I must've worked on the one stinger for two hours and I couldn't ever get it to shave.

I know somebody here has an SOP!

The Wranch Fairy Has Good Videos on Sharpening The Two Blade...Mine Are Sticky Sharp.

 

[Dmathews87]

I fixed my lansky system by ordering the jig Ranch Fairy uses in the videos Blacksmith referenced....its worked ok on my knives, but never could get my stingers how i wanted them...

 

[BowhunterXC]

* Keep your stones clean....after a couple of minutes of stroking the broadhead, check the stone to see if there's a build up of metal and wipe it off with a rag, add fresh oil and keep going.
* Check the blade's edge angle to make sure the angle you're using is the same as the edge angle on the broadhead.
* Once you get down to a ceramic stone, don't forget to strop the edges. A board mounted leather strop will put that polished edge on a broadhead that can't be beat.
* Along with that board mounted leather strop, I feel a "must have" is a Stay-Sharp accessory!!! This little jig will maintain the angle while you sharpen any broadhead....whether you're using fine grit sandpaper, a diamond plate or a leather stop. I have been able to get that "mirror edge" on all broadheads with this jig. I have one for fixed and removable blade broadheads.
https://staysharpguide.com/products

 

[Ckwilli]

Lansky recommends using the oil to clean the stones only and not to lubricate them. That tripped me up at first. For me the lansky hasn’t been the best option for broadheads.

 

[HunterBob]

Lansky recommends using the oil to clean the stones only and not to lubricate them. That tripped me up at first. For me the lansky hasn’t been the best option for broadheads.

That's actually not true, they recommend using oil before you work on sharpening, then clean as needed.

Here is a website I found that has helped me a ton. I'm getting my broadheads shaving sharp and able to cut paper now.

Some Lansky sharpener tips (warning, pic heavy!)

Hi all! As the title suggests, I thought I would post some photos with some tips and tricks I've learned about using the Lansky sharpener. This is...

www.edcforums.com

 

[Ckwilli]

That's actually not true, they recommend using oil before you work on sharpening, then clean as needed.

Here is a website I found that has helped me a ton. I'm getting my broadheads shaving sharp and able to cut paper now.

Some Lansky sharpener tips (warning, pic heavy!)

Hi all! As the title suggests, I thought I would post some photos with some tips and tricks I've learned about using the Lansky sharpener. This is...

www.edcforums.com

Ah, their instructional video years ago said it was for cleaning the stone so that’s what I based that on. They say not to use oil on the diamond stones but to use it on the natural Arkansas stones. It will clog the diamond stones.

 

[Crawdaddy4]

I have the Lansky Arkansas stones, but they only go up to 800 grit which isn't fine enough for hair-shaving sharpness. They work well for damaged edges (heavy wear, chips, or dings) in getting them reprofiled. I will use the Lansky to repair an edge and then go to my whetstone and leather strop for finishing. Main thing I have learned in sharpening is patience....you have to get that bur. Ranch Fairy has some good tips as does the Innovative Outdoorsman on YouTube.

 

[JC3]

I would add, the way you clean your stones is important.
When a black build up (the steel you are cutting from the blade) starts to appear, take a minute to clean the stone, it will work much better
Cleaning involves oil and your finger tip.
Coat the stone lightly with oil and using your finger tip, go in a circular motion to get the metal particulates to suspend in the oil.
DAB, do not wipe, with a paper towel, wiping just pushes the particulate back into the stone pores.
This may take a few sequences, depending on how "dirty" or clogged your stones are.
I have also cleaned diamond plates with oil for years with out clogging the plate, don't know where they came up with that one.
I also use oil with the diamond plates, during sharpening, for the same reason oil is used with a natural stone.
Sharpening oil is basically there to help keep the stones or diamond plates clean.

 

[HaunSolo]

Well everyone, thanks for your feedback.

I found out, as usual, that the problem was me. I read multiple sources that said to sharpen the stingers at a 25 degree angle. When I went back and watched the official Magnus video again he said to set a lansky system at 20 degrees for stingers.

So that's what I did. I set my stinger in there and after about 5 minutes I had a broadhead that would shave hair off my arm(albeit it wasn't super sharp, but I didn't strop it either).

I am a glutton for learning lessons the hard way.

Thanks again.

 

[BackSpasm]

Lots of great tips here. I will add that with a lansky set it’s stil useful to me to color my bevel edges with a sharpie to see where my strokes are contacting and make sure they aren’t too deep or shallow even with a “known degree bevel” also it helps to figure out how you want to accurately or reliably clamp your blades the same way every time in every axis

 

[Iron_llama]

Lots of great tips here. I will add that with a lansky set it’s stil useful to me to color my bevel edges with a sharpie to see where my strokes are contacting and make sure they aren’t too deep or shallow even with a “known degree bevel” also it helps to figure out how you want to accurately or reliably clamp your blades the same way every time in every axis

I pretty much always Sharpie my edges while I'm setting the bevel on whatever gizmo I'm using. Sometimes I'll even geek out with a jewler's loupe, or zoom in with my phone camera, to get a close look at the edge.

 

[DrDillicious]

Sharpie the edge and use light constant pressure. Switch sides every stroke if you’re new to sharpening. I free hand with a benchmade Diamond sharpener (can get it cheaper from the manufacturer that benchmade outsourced to but forgot the name). I sharpen at about what feels like a 15-17 degree angle then micro bevel a 20 degree angle and strope with a leather belt. Consistent pressure and consistent even patterning seems to be the problem most people new to sharpening have that I have seen. The mico bevel makes sharpening a lot faster once you have achieved it. I keep all my pocket knives shaving sharp and it takes about 5-7 passes to get it back there each time on micro bevel.