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Timber hitch questions

I have found the key is absolutely not the just having more wraps, but rather to have the wraps 180 degrees from the stick/step/platform.

The number of wraps is going to vary based on the type and diameter of rope you are using. For instance, 3/16” Amsteel likes 3 or 4 wraps for me (The type of bark on the tree plays a factor).

If you do too many wraps, you lose the ability to tighten it. It’s a delicate balance, but I have only been messing around with it for three days and I already have the muscle memory to get it right the first time almost every time.

I am having the same observations - it’s a solid connection


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And just to be clear....instead of capture the main line and double back to start your wraps, u guys have a fixed point on 1 side of the platform and u capture a versa button or leg of platform or whatever then double back to start ur wraps? I have a fixed loop anchor point on the main line that gets captured with the tail end of the rope...I don't think u guys are using it that way correct?
I use like this video....anchor point is on the standing end


 
How many fid lengths in a full bury?

Full bury means if you start with a 12’ length of Amsteel, you will fold it in half a fish about 6’ back through itself. It won’t end up being 6’ because you need a little loop and you lose some due to having double diameter line.


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And just to be clear....instead of capture the main line and double back to start your wraps, u guys have a fixed point on 1 side of the platform and u capture a versa button or leg of platform or whatever then double back to start ur wraps? I have a fixed loop anchor point on the main line that gets captured with the tail end of the rope...I don't think u guys are using it that way correct?
I use like this video....anchor point is on the standing end



Correct. We are not using it like that video. We capture fixed point and double back. Main point is to have the wraps 180* from middle of platform or versa button for sticks.


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Full bury means if you start with a 12’ length of Amsteel, you will fold it in half a fish about 6’ back through itself. It won’t end up being 6’ because you need a little loop and you lose some due to having double diameter line.


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Thanks for the reply, I’ve done the same with double braid rope, taken the core out and run the cover in. It makes a uniform diameter and the friction hitch can slide right up to the eye.
 
I have a Scout Solo in order, so I have been messing around with the Timber Hitch on my Ridge Runner and various climbing sticks. It works fantastic.
If anyone is interested, here is s a picture of a couple of variations that are working well for me:
eafc7d2564fc84ff51e17153606d4e05.plist


Both have a finished length of 8’

The top is 1/8” with a full bury. 1.38 oz

The bottom is 3/8” with just a locked Brummell loop at one end. 1.62 oz

They both work well. I think the 3/8” is a little easier to make the hitch and definitely faster to make a new one.

The 1/8” is a little lighter and might hold up better (thanks to the full bury) against the repeated cycle of compression that comes with a Timber Hitch.

I’ve been using 1/8” without a full bury. Seems to work fine. Other than fraying anything I should be concerned about using that diameter with the timber hitch?


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I’ve been using 1/8” without a full bury. Seems to work fine. Other than fraying anything I should be concerned about using that diameter with the timber hitch?


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Nope. It will just probably need to be replaced sooner.


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Is timber hitching the stock strip on from a Predator or Mission a good idea?
 
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