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Traditional arrow?

Mtnbowhunter

Mtnbowhunter

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2017
Messages
43
Need some advice selecting arrow shaft for an old Ben Pearson recurve probably a 70s model I guess. It's 45# at 28 inches and my draw length is 29 inches. I was planning on shooting 200 grain heads. What spine carbon arrows would you trad guys recommend? I have a spine chart that says 340s but everything I been reading on forums is saying 500 spine. Also would you recommend shooting a lighter head out of this bow? Always hunted with a compound so this is all new to me.

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What model pearson? It's important to know if it is center cut or not.... most of that era are, but....
 
I'm shooting about the same draw weight and draw length as you and I'm shooting the Easton axis traditionals in 400 spine. I have the 75 grain brass insert in the arrow and I shoot a 125gr point. My bow shelf is cut to center too. I guess I should also add that my arrows are 31.5" long too as that has a lot to do with the spine.
 
Vtbow said:
What model pearson? It's important to know if it is center cut or not.... most of that era are, but....
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Yes it's center cut. I will post a pic when I get home. Would there be any downsides to learning to shoot with an older bow like that?

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Mtnbowhunter said:
Yes it's center cut. I will post a pic when I get home. Would there be any downsides to learning to shoot with an older bow like that?

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Cool. Not in my opinion--if it fits and you like it. My favorite bows are from the 50's :)
 
Mtnbowhunter said:
Yes it's center cut. I will post a pic when I get home. Would there be any downsides to learning to shoot with an older bow like that?

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No downsides. There were some great bows back in the day. I've got a '50's Bear Kodiak @38# that is a dream to shoot.
Regarding arrow spine, I'd suggest you contact 3 Rivers Archery and talk to the experts. That's what they're there for, whether you buy from them or not. They don't care if you buy somewhere else, they probably supply the dealer you buy from anyway.
 
Order a 3 arrow test kit. Also since your new, dont cut arrows. Get something thats close and learn to shoot. There are enough of us that dont fit the "charts" to consider them anything but a starting point.
 
I shoot a 500 spine carbon with a normal insert and 200 grain broadheads. I glued inserts in at full length and experimented until I got the best arrow flight. My recurve and longbow are both 54# @28" I draw 27" and the arrows ended up 30" long. They fly great out of both bows.
 
I say get a set of POC hunters from rose city in 45-55....just doesn't seem right to shoot carbons.... but that's just me:)
 
Here's some pictures of the bow.
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I love the looks of wooden arrows but carbons are more durable for starting out and end up being cheaper in the long run. Plus, they are easier to change point weights on when tuning.
 
Love the wooden arrow thing too, but practicality made me choose carbon. More consistent, tougher, etc. I shoot my recurve and longbow because of the simplicity. I worked in an archery shop for 4 years many moons ago and I worked on enough compounds to last me the rest of my life. I love hunting out of a harness with my recurve, but mostly in thick areas where shot distance is limited.

I have a Hoyt Nitrum to stretch things out.
and I have a 200# recurve limb Kodabow Zulu Scout when I'm feeling lazy.

Of course I had my share of arguments at that shop over traditional vs. modern materials of both arrows and bows. when you start down that slippery slope you always end up with a long stick and a stone point.
 
Honestly, I have just found wooden arrows easier to tune-- and I went trad for the same reason as @Whispers Death simplicity. I do shoot some aluminums as well, and find them easier to tune myself than carbons as well. I can cut them no problem, and they're cheap enough I can experiment with them and not feel bad if the suck. I'm guessing a proper lengthed Easton xx75 in 2216 would fly pretty darn straight and smooth out of that bow as well...
 
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I had nothing but problems with carbon arrows....because They are just too stiff. I tried 400s....kept adding weight to the front. I even put liners in them to get the gpi up. They just kept clacking on my riser....not enough flex. Only when I went to the 500 series did things turn around. For Aluminum I had my best luck with XX75 2018s with 125 gr heads. Never tried 200 grain heads. Probably would have worked good with 2216s.
 
I would guess you're in the the .600/500 spine. I am a black eagle arrow dealer and will gladly help you get into some. I also own a small side business making traditional strings if you ever need anything. (hcbstrings.com)
 
1)What is the grand total arrow weight/broad head weight that most guys are aiming for in a whitetail hunting arrow? Assuming most guys are shooting in that 45-55 lb range.

2) Is there a noticeable benefit in using insert weights to achieve that weight, opposed to a normal insert and a heavy broadhead?

Heavier broadhead = more drag, but more cutting surface. Or smaller broadhead = less drag, less cutting length?
 
GodsCountry said:
1)What is the grand total arrow weight/broad head weight that most guys are aiming for in a whitetail hunting arrow? Assuming most guys are shooting in that 45-55 lb range.

2) Is there a noticeable benefit in using insert weights to achieve that weight, opposed to a normal insert and a heavy broadhead?

Heavier broadhead = more drag, but more cutting surface. Or smaller broadhead = less drag, less cutting length?
Click to expand...

I always shoot for anywhere from 450-525 depending on what poundage i'm shooting. I desire a good cast with my bows, so I typically stay around 9 grains per pound (gpp).

As far as a heavier broadhead and insert verses just a heavy arrow, check out Dr. Ashby's reports of FOC. There are some amazing studies out there to prove the benefit of them, but I don't get too caught up with that. Imo, a well tuned arrow is a well tuned arrow, regardless of where the weight is.
 
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