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Traditional arrow?

All this is good info, but no need to comllicate it. Call three rovers or someone and get some gt trade if you want to go carbon. They'll get you all setup. Choose a good screw in standard 2 blade like a zwicky, woodsman, whatever. Go shoot deer. After you've been hunting a while and shooting a ton, refine your setup. I've learned without good, repeatable form, you can't tune an arrow. Have fun and don't get caught in the weeds of FOC debate....unless you're into that kind of thing.
 
In addition to increased FOC which has definitely been a benefit for me with my recurve and crossbow, the greater benefit of a heavy broad head is to increase flex/weaken your shaft so it can get the proper paradox to bend around your riser. It has to be in the correct range for optimal arrow flight.
 
Vtbow said:
All this is good info, but no need to comllicate it. Call three rovers or someone and get some gt trade if you want to go carbon. They'll get you all setup. Choose a good screw in standard 2 blade like a zwicky, woodsman, whatever. Go shoot deer. After you've been hunting a while and shooting a ton, refine your setup. I've learned without good, repeatable form, you can't tune an arrow. Have fun and don't get caught in the weeds of FOC debate....unless you're into that kind of thing.
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Form is everything. I’ve been shooting traditional for close to 20 years and I have to tune myself up every now and then.
 
I've been shooting recurves and longbows since '89. I agree VT.....to a point. I have seen some awful arrow/bow/broadhead combinations in my time though. Hard to stay interested when you can't hit the broad side of a barn. Fighting your equipment can be a frustration. A mentor would be a big plus.
 
Whispers Death said:
I've been shooting recurves and longbows since '89. I agree VT.....to a point. I have seen some awful arrow/bow/broadhead combinations in my time though. Hard to stay interested when you can't hit the broad side of a barn. Fighting your equipment can be a frustration. A mentor would be a big plus.
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I completely agree. My point was, get something that's in the zone bassed on an experts recco, and run with it. No need to paper tune, worry about foc, etc. And a friend or mentor that's into it as well is a great help.
 
I got my arrows a couple days ago. I got full length 340,400, and 500 spine gold tip arrows just to try different stuff. I've shot from 85 to 200 grain points and honestly the 400 spine with a 125 points is what I'm most consistent with. By consistent I mean I can hit an 8 inch circle out to about 20 yds everytime not real great. One problem I've got is it's hard for me to put the point of my arrow on where I wanna hit, I do my best just drawing back and using peripheral to hold low while looking where I wanna hit.

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I shoot full length Easton axis 500 with 125 grr points and standard inserts.50lb Martin Howatt Hunter and my draw length is 30 inches.Also shoot 2114 aluminum with same points just as well.Prefer the axis for durability.
 
Mtnbowhunter said:
I got my arrows a couple days ago. I got full length 340,400, and 500 spine gold tip arrows just to try different stuff. I've shot from 85 to 200 grain points and honestly the 400 spine with a 125 points is what I'm most consistent with. By consistent I mean I can hit an 8 inch circle out to about 20 yds everytime not real great. One problem I've got is it's hard for me to put the point of my arrow on where I wanna hit, I do my best just drawing back and using peripheral to hold low while looking where I wanna hit.

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That's called split vision aiming and is what I use. I also found it helps if I shoot three fingers under so my arrow is closer to my eye when using this method. I'm glad to here you found some consistency with at least one arrow. As your form and release improves with time and practice ( and it will!) then tuning your arrow with different lengths and point weights will fine tune your shot. Good luck and don't give up. It often takes the average person a couple years to really shoot a traditional bow with real good consistency.
 
The 400 just seems to always be straight in the target no matter the distance the other two will hit straight 3 out 5 shots seems like and it could be something to do with my form idk lol

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Bare shafts or fletched? 8" at 20yds with bare shaft is good, assuming fletched hit same 8". If your arrows are fletched then order some more 400 and have fun. After your consistent you can mess around with tuning. You could also group tune by just changing point weight.
 
There are so many variables if it is working for you then shoot it. personally, I put more value in does my arrow fly where I look then how it impacts target while bare shafting (as far as tail right/left) as fletching corrects that fast. A fletched arrow that naturally goes where you look will be very helpful during hunting ;)
 
Yeah they're fletched. I didn't wanna get in over my head right off the bat with bareshafting lol. I'm just gonna keep shooting everyday I'm off work, then dive on in a little deeper when I get more comfortable. Did order a new string though, so that might change some things considering this is the string that came on the bow when my dad bought it back in the 70s.

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