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Traditional Bow Recommendations

slonstdy said:
What draw weight should I start out with? I've never shot a trad bow but for reference my Switchback is at 62# draw weight and 29.5 draw length. Do I start out low to practice good form and then move up in weight or can I start out at say 50# being I've shot bows for 20+ years? I know shooting a trad is different but my thought process is since I've been shooting a long time as opposed to a person just starting out in archery I feel I have the muscle strength/memory to jump to a higher poundage right from the start. What do you guys think is best?
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My recommendation: Pick up a Samick Sage (they're inexpensive) throw a Fast Flight Flemish Twist string on there and start shooting. Do a bunch of research on adjusting brace height and nock point height, and arrow tuning. Start with a 40 or 45 pound draw.... they're easy to pull so you can shoot often and are plenty for hunting. It's not a matter of how much weight you can pull. I used to shoot a 70# compound and could pull a really heavy recurve BUT developing good form is extremely important when learning to shoot a trad bow. A low draw weight will allow you to develop proper form and shoot a lot. Don't risk shoulder injury or bad habits just to pull a heavy bow. Anywhere you look for advice from experienced traditional archers they will all tell you start with a low draw weight. 40-45 is low enough to do all this AND still hunt with.

I killed a buck this year with a 40# Sage.... I hit a little forward but still blasted through the shoulder, hit lungs, and got a complete pass through. 40# is plenty if you tune your arrows and shoot good sharp broadheads. I used VPA penetrators (two blade, double bevel). WOrry about upgrading bows after you 1) determine if trad is for you and 2) learn to shoot well with the Sage without breaking the bank. THat's exactly what I did and am now looking to upgrade simply because I love bows and want to have multiple bows.
 
ThomasHemlock said:
My recommendation: Pick up a Samick Sage (they're inexpensive) throw a Fast Flight Flemish Twist string on there and start shooting. Do a bunch of research on adjusting brace height and nock point height, and arrow tuning. Start with a 40 or 45 pound draw.... they're easy to pull so you can shoot often and are plenty for hunting. It's not a matter of how much weight you can pull. I used to shoot a 70# compound and could pull a really heavy recurve BUT developing good form is extremely important when learning to shoot a trad bow. A low draw weight will allow you to develop proper form and shoot a lot. Don't risk shoulder injury or bad habits just to pull a heavy bow. Anywhere you look for advice from experienced traditional archers they will all tell you start with a low draw weight. 40-45 is low enough to do all this AND still hunt with.

I killed a buck this year with a 40# Sage.... I hit a little forward but still blasted through the shoulder, hit lungs, and got a complete pass through. 40# is plenty if you tune your arrows and shoot good sharp broadheads. I used VPA penetrators (two blade, double bevel). WOrry about upgrading bows after you 1) determine if trad is for you and 2) learn to shoot well with the Sage without breaking the bank. THat's exactly what I did and am now looking to upgrade simply because I love bows and want to have multiple bows.
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I would add to that to shoot heavier arrows, too. Minimum 10 grains per pound. So a 40# bow should shoot at least a 400 grain arrow....rule of thumb.
 
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I would also add that i'd go around #40 pounds to start. You're going to learn really quickly that it isn't the same as a compound. Not even comparable. I shooting #70 all day with my compound and don't have any complaints. With my tradbow, I couldn't dream of shooting #70. I shooting mid to high 50's, butI have also been shooting one for 7ish years now. It is definitely something you have to grow into, imo. Make small changes in draw weight, such as going up one poundage increment at a time and then get used to it and slide up to the next one. Eventually you'll have both proper form AND be shooting around #50 with no problem.

As far as arrow weight goes, I differ than a lot of people on that, I typically shoot 9 grains per pound. On heavier bows(close to #60), I shoot 8-9, staying closer to 8 most of the time.

I have a friend who shoots #43 @27 and shoots a 373 grain arrows with a COC head. He sees pass throughs regularly. I already read one time from a much wiser archer than myself, "a sharp broadhead adds pounds to a bow". The sharper your broadhead, the less resistance on the broadhead while passing through. YMMV.
 
For strings talk to Allan Schafer at 10 ring strings. He is in Virginia too! He is a lefty but should be able to hook you up with some more local guys to try out bows. Also consider the Baltimore bowmen shoot or the star shoot in addition to ETAR.
 
After what you guys suggested I will most likely go with a Samick Sage at 40#'s and work on form. As far as arrows and draw length, how can I determine that? When I bought my Mathews the shop had me draw a bow and they measured for my draw length and gave me the proper bow. Is it done the same way with a trad?
 
slonstdy said:
After what you guys suggested I will most likely go with a Samick Sage at 40#'s and work on form. As far as arrows and draw length, how can I determine that? When I bought my Mathews the shop had me draw a bow and they measured for my draw length and gave me the proper bow. Is it done the same way with a trad?
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no sir. It's based off of where you anchor. I would bet with #40 limbs, you'll be in the .600 spine arrow. The best thing to do is to get consistent and THEN try to find arrows. If you're not consistent, trying to tune an arrow can make you want to break a bow! Buy some .600 spine arrows fletched with feathers and go with it. (small plug: I am a black eagle arrow dealer and can help some with getting you set up and also own a small traditional archery string business). Let me know if you need any help with anything!
 
slonstdy said:
After what you guys suggested I will most likely go with a Samick Sage at 40#'s and work on form. As far as arrows and draw length, how can I determine that? When I bought my Mathews the shop had me draw a bow and they measured for my draw length and gave me the proper bow. Is it done the same way with a trad?
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There is "true draw" and "traditional draw". True draw is measured from the throat of the nock to the rest. Traditional draw is measured to the front of the bow shelf. I always thought traditional draw was kind of arbitrary because different handle designs could have different shapes, widths, etc.
Seems to me that nock to rest would be the most consistent way to measure a shooter's draw length.
 
With a stick bow your actual draw to anchor will be different than what it is when pulling a wheel bow. Also the design of the grip and riser will determine how long your shafts need to be regardless of which method is utilized to determine your draw length. Remember shaft length affects spine, at least when utilizing natural materials. I would think the same would be true with carbons or any other material.
IMHO I would recommend avoiding the use of fast flight type string material for use on any traditional bow including those that state they are designed for its use. There is no stretch in FF type material which translates into more shock to the limbs, which equals shorter life of the bow and in my limited experience more noticeable hand shock and a noisier release. If arrow speed is a major concern stick with wheels. Tuning your equipment and insuring your broadheads are scary sharp is far more important in regard to arrow penetration than arrow speed. Again, JMHO.
Norkal
 
I'm still a bit confused concerning arrows. Can I shoot my old 30" xx75 2216's with helical fletchings to start out with and once I get my form consistent then purchase the proper arrows or do I need to be fitted with arrows when I purchase the bow? And for that matter is spine weight the main difference between trad and compound bow arrows?
 
slonstdy said:
I'm still a bit confused concerning arrows. Can I shoot my old 30" xx75 2216's with helical fletchings to start out with and once I get my form consistent then purchase the proper arrows or do I need to be fitted with arrows when I purchase the bow? And for that matter is spine weight the main difference between trad and compound bow arrows?
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what pound bow are you wanting to get?
 
40#. Would use my old arrows just to practice getting comfortable with an anchor point and aiming and not really concern myself with arrow flight and tuning just yet.
 
slonstdy said:
I'm still a bit confused concerning arrows. Can I shoot my old 30" xx75 2216's with helical fletchings to start out with and once I get my form consistent then purchase the proper arrows or do I need to be fitted with arrows when I purchase the bow? And for that matter is spine weight the main difference between trad and compound bow arrows?
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Just shoot them! May need 200 grains up front to get them flying decent. You will break and lose a bunch learning anyway so no need for good arrows until then. It’s basically impossible to properly tune a Trad bow with inconsistent form.
 
I once owned an archery shop, I shot all kinds of stick bows, I love black widows. They are smooth and accurate. They will ship you a demo bow, you pay the shipping. I bought a PAX off this sight for 600, love it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Been shooting trad for about 20 years. One of the best deals in archery that last couple years is the Black Hunter. Goes by Galaxy and a couple other names. Chinese by birth. Excellent starter bow . Go over to the Leatherwall. If I were starting out, it would either be a BH or the Sage. Do yourself a favor and check out the BH. Generally around a $100.
 
About a year ago now, I bought a new Sage, a 68 inch one piece, put a new string on it, shot it till I found my shooting style and preference, got lucky in November and scored my first buck with it from a saddle to boot. Put a deposit down with Big Jim to get in line, Thunder Child. Bit of a gamble for never having shot one, but the few used ones I have seen up for sale were gone pretty quickly. Also really want something shorter - thinking 56 on the Thunder Child.
 
Check out Southwest Archery.They have a "smother,less blocky" Sage. Got one for my Grand son.he loves it.
 
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