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Truck build

I had to bypass the solenoids and "hot wire" it to work but the first pull on the winch was winching me up onto the trailer when my friend showed up to rescue me. Winched out and it lowered the truck straight onto the lift. The winch brake I rebuilt was working correctly.
 
I was a little nervous and second guessing myself when I went to fire it for the first time....it wouldn't fire off and was backfiring while trying to start.....so I removed the distributor cap so start the process of finding TDC and the dang rotor button was broke. I now it wasn't broke prior and when I put the cap back on it wasn't broke.....first attempt to start it broke. My hypothesis is the chain I was using for lifting the motor swung down and hit the bottom cracking it but not breaking it. The attempt to start finishes it off...or at least that what I think happened. Run to the parts house,.install new rotor, and it fired first try.View attachment 104315
Are you going to get time to hunt?
 
For anybody following along thinking of replacing the timing gears on ur 300 the way I come up with to remove the fiber gear was to drill and tap 2 5/16 18 holes into the fiber stuff 90 degrees of the holes in it and then use ur standard timing gear puller. I was nervous cause it was taking some real pressure.....couple cranks on the ratchet, spray with penetrating oil and give it some taps with a soft punch on the snout of the cam shaft, wait a little, couple cranks, repeat.....take ur time.....if that gear shatters and u don't have anything to pull against anymore and u go na be real sad. I guess u would have to cut the collars off with a grinder or dremel if the gear exploded and the collars were still pressed onScreenshot_20240708-055938~3.png
 
Well....couple days after buttoning everything back up and all is well. No leaks or noises (other than the definite metal on metal gear whine which I believe to be the new norm but I think it's supposed to sound like that) or anything out of the ordinary. I was thinking about doing some sort of crankcase flush but between the top end rebuild 3 or 4 years ago and the extra anal retentive cleaning job I just did on the bottom end I changed my mind and just gonna let it ride. She seems a little tired based off compression while turning the crank over during the timing job but the first thing I did was donuts out in the front field of the property where I worked on it.....she still got plenty of go. The lower gears in the axles are really gonna help it there so I'm not sweating it. It doesn't burn oil and basically a new motor now with all the best upgrades with the new 3g alternator and Saginaw steering pump. The steering is by far the best thing so far. It makes it a new truck. I know it might be kinda difficult and cost ya couple hundred bucks but I highly encourage all u obs owners to research it and find a van with the parts u need.

Next on the list is new rear brakes. I'm torn between replacing factory drum stuff or if I spend an extra 150 could swap to disk. Disk is required for an off roader imo but this is just a daily driver/hunting truck that may occasionally do stupid stuff so I'm kinda thinking just replace what I got.

I discussed the 4x4 swap in depth while my buddy and I worked together on the timing job. It's coming but it may have been pushed back a little. I will probably be a poser for a little bit with a front axle and not driveshaft. The plan is to install all front suspension, front axle, new steering, brakes working, rear axle at new height, fenders trimmed,.and tires installed on the first round. The second round would be install 4x4.transmisson and transfer case, build appropriate mounts/cross members and modify the rear driveshaft and possibly build the front. Last phase would be would on the rear differential and install new gear set and locking differential.......then there is a while new set on skills I gotta learn with plumbing an air system to get the needed psi to the front axle to engage the front locking differential......when we'll be cooking with fire. Both rear wheels will spin all the time with no slippage when power is delivered to the rear axle. The front axle is "open diff/1 wheel peel" until I engage the front locking diff and then all 4 wheels spinning 100% all the time. Lockers and the winch (still need to fix it to work on a controller) and I don't think I'll be getting stuck any time soon while out hunting. Wet depth is a concern. 37" tire are big but not that big. It's normally good practice to check water depth before entering anyway right?
 
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