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Tuning help…..again

ketch22

ketch22

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2021
Messages
738
Last year I papertuned and got nice clean bullet holes. I then did some walk back tuning out to 50, got everything hitting nice and pretty. Then I broadhead tuned. At that point everything was so close I think one adjustment did it, I was touching field points and broadheads (montecs) out to 40.

I have a 97 Hoyt tenacity that was my grandfathers and I’m still hunting with it because it shoots like a dream plus it has a very high sentimental value.

I had a great season last year getting a nice doe with my bow and my first buck during gun season. A week ago I busted out the paper tune rack to start all over again. I’ve Nocktuned all of my arrows. Every single one is giving me between a 1-1.25 inch right tear.

At this point, the bow is timed, center shot is set at 13/16, ATA is dead nuts, brave height is a hair long but still within spec, and the Nock point is right around 1/8 high (that’s what she likes). I have added up to six full twists to both right side yokes, which I backed off to 3 because the lean was getting a bit sketchy. I’ve bumped my rest back and forth 3/16 in either direction and I’m still getting the same tear on every shot.

Do I cut my losses and go right into walk back tuning again then broadhead tuning or is there some magic voodoo I’m missing here?
 
I'm wondering what changed in your setup since last year? Arrows or broadheads?
Reguardless, broadhead flight is king. If they hit every time where you want them to then there is no reason to worry about paper.
 
Personally, I don’t go back to paper if bh and fp have same POI. So if last year was good and NOTHING has changed, I would just stick to bh tuning. Some minor things to consider: Maybe string stretch? How often do you shoot bow during the off-season? Bc grip pressure can affect paper.
 
nighthawkF-117 said:
I'm wondering what changed in your setup since last year? Arrows or broadheads?
Reguardless, broadhead flight is king. If they hit every time where you want them to then there is no reason to worry about paper.
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Olegrad said:
Personally, I don’t go back to paper if bh and fp have same POI. So if last year was good and NOTHING has changed, I would just stick to bh tuning. Some minor things to consider: Maybe string stretch? How often do you shoot bow during the off-season? Bc grip pressure can affect paper.
Click to expand...

I did change arrows, but my old arrows are getting the exact same thing.

I try to get a couple of arrows in a week, before I started paper tuning I did go out back and fling a few at 20 and my POI as the same as it was when I setup up last year.
 
You said it's been a while. Is it a form issue? Releasing different? I would put the bow back where it was. Spend some time at practice and really concentrate on your form and release. Then go back to the paper. If I paper shoot and my arrows are off. It's because I'm doing something wrong and over thinking it.
 
jhunter13 said:
Paper tuning is a starting point, not and ending point.
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This is the best way to look at it.

My order is paper, walk back, broadhead tuning.

If I have any arrows I don’t like I’ll try and nock tune that arrow, or keep it in the back of the quiver. If your broadhead hits where the pin is sitting then not much else really matters
 
Consistent groups with your broadheads at your maximum effective range is all you should worry about. I don't know how many times I've read or heard of major tournament archers winning and then they paper tuned their bow it had a 3 inch tear!!! Consistent grouping is your goal.

If you want to drill down, and I don't recommend doing it if you're getting the groups you want as stated before, you may want to bare shaft tune to see if there is a subtle rest adjustment or something. Before you do that; however, If you are getting a nock right tear move your rest slightly left like 1/32" or 1/16" to the left and try it again with your fletched shafts. Even if you're at center shot, if you adjust 1/8" or less either way with your rest that is within accepted practice.

You may want to check for fletching clearance issues, perhaps your cable guard moved a bit, perhaps fletches were stored some way with a slight bend and they're now hitting something just slightly as they pass through the rest. Use some lipstick on the end of your fletches to see if it is hitting your rest.

You said you nock tuned your arrows as well? So most likely its not an issue with them. Did you go to a different release or are you anchoring a little differently? Maybe putting a little more side tension on your loop at full draw those kind of things, think relaxed bow hand and releaxed release hand at full draw so you're not slightly torquing the string a little more to the right? You would be surprised at when subtle form issues can manifest as well.

Has your d loop stretched a little? That can slightly lower your draw length and cause your arrows to act a bit stiffer. That's not an awful tear so a few subtle adjustments should get you at decent tears.

Finally, I don't know how many times I'll shoot my bow through paper to start our and I'm getting nice tears then later on they are starting to get a little wonky, that is form type stuff and sometimes it helps to give yourself a break and go back to it in a day or so.
 
I did change arrows, a touch heavier spine but added 100grains in TAW. But even so, I’m getting same tears with the lighter arrows.

I haven’t changed a thing in the bow, possible myD loop stretched, I can try shrinking that up, maybe it had me over extending a bit.

I’m traveling for work today but I’ll be back late Tuesday so Wednesday I’m going to head outside and shoot some groups.
 
Paper is not realy tuning.it just gives you a rough estimate that the arrow is coming off the bow strait.you must fine tune after that and the tiny adjustments in fine tuning will cause a tear if shot through paper again.but pay no mind to that.a bow that is perfectly tuned at 60 yards will tear the paper a little up close.but we are not tuning right off the bow.the arrow isn't even stabilized in the air yet,its still bending back and forth.if you break nocks at thirty but tear paper at 7 it's tuned.
 
I'm to the point I don't use paper at all any more.i just set the rest level tap it down a 16 of an inch.center it a little to the inside ,it's a mathews, and walk back tune.a tap or 2 to the inside towards the riser.break nocks at 40.
 
If with the same arrows that previously shot bullet holes and you now have bad tears, and everything else being equal, it's likely the tear is from you.

Try shooting through paper. Take some shots with your normal form and see what tear you get. Now change your grip purposefully, put extra pressure on your thumb and take a few shots. Note your tear. Now put extra pressure on your index, middle fingers. Again note your tear. You should see changes in your tear with each different grip pressure. If you don't see changes in your tear it's very likely something is out of wack with your equipment. If you do see changes consistent with your grip changing the problem is likely your form.

Lots of us have issues with our form from time to time. It's one of those things you have to constantly keep on top of to prevent loss of skill. This is a surefire technique I've used to determine if the problem was me or the bow.
 
Strings are 18 months old, I’ll do some playing around Wednesday when I’m back home and see what happens
 
nighthawkF-117 said:
If with the same arrows that previously shot bullet holes and you now have bad tears, and everything else being equal, it's likely the tear is from you.

Try shooting through paper. Take some shots with your normal form and see what tear you get. Now change your grip purposefully, put extra pressure on your thumb and take a few shots. Note your tear. Now put extra pressure on your index, middle fingers. Again note your tear. You should see changes in your tear with each different grip pressure. If you don't see changes in your tear it's very likely something is out of wack with your equipment. If you do see changes consistent with your grip changing the problem is likely your form.

Lots of us have issues with our form from time to time. It's one of those things you have to constantly keep on top of to prevent loss of skill. This is a surefire technique I've used to determine if the problem was me or the bow.
Click to expand...
I agree with the above. If the same arrows that previously were shooting bullet holes now have a decent tear either your form has changed or something stretched.

I will respectfully disagree with some of the target comparisons made earlier in the thread. Target archery is about being able to place the arrow in the center of the target and as mentioned that can happen without a really dialed in arrow tune. The objective of a hunting arrow is to drive a broadhead through an animal. Poor tune is going to rob the arrow of energy that could have been used to drive the broadhead through the critter. The cleaner the arrow flight from start to finish the better the terminal performance will be.
 
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