Tuning help

[ketch22]

Ok guru’s, I’ve been tuning my bows for a few years now but I am now stumped. I switched up arrows this year for something heavier. Yes, I’m still within the spine chart so I’m ok there.

Bow: Hoyt Tenacity master cam
Draw weight: 60
Draw length: 29
ATA: 36
Brace Height: 6-1/2
Cams are in time
Release type: cobra trigger release
Rest: whisker biscuit
Arrows: day six gear 350 spine
Outsert: 50G
Tip: 125 (I also have 100’s)

I took some bare shaft arrows and began paper tuning. I had between 1/4-1/2 inch tail high, tail right tear. I added one twist to each right side of my yokes, it took the right tear out. I bumped the rest up a hair, no change. I bumped it one more time and now I’m getting a 2 inch tear right that’s still about 1/4 inch high.

Obviously I’m going to bump the rest back to where it was, but before I go any further, is there something I’m missing here? I’m stumped and I don’t want to start changing more things and chasing my tail.

 

[Weldabeast]

U seen if there any nock pinch? U got the d-loop set dead center/90 degrees off the string?

 

[ketch22]

No nock pinch, it was at 90° before I bumped the rest.

 

[Weldabeast]

Both my bows had to be a smidget nock high to bareshaft tune. I'm not an expert

 

[ketch22]

The black arrows are the the fletched ones I was messing with. (I had more without fletching). At this point, I’ll probably just settle for close enough, fletch them and start shooting, then jump into broad head tuning.

 

[woodsdog2]

Tune with a bareshaft up close (7yards) through paper and get that to a bullet hole, use the same bare shaft.

If you are using different shafts through paper it could be your carbons need to be indexed so you are consistently shooting off the most rigid part of each shaft. I had inconsistent tears like this through bare shaft tuning through paper until I took the time to bare shaft tune each shaft and rotate the nocks 1/4 of a turn each time until the hole shrunk to a bullet or very close to it. But don't shave off all of your fletches, bare shaft tune with one shaft and then shoot through paper with a fletched shaft and make sure your tears are reasonable then start group tuning.

If you are getting flyers with broadheads and fully fletched shafts you can start to dial in each shaft by slow mo video with your cell phone. Then turn your nocks a quarter turn to smooth out the flight with your fletched shafts. Don't try to do it all at once too as when you get tired your form will start to suffer. You will start pulling the shot or plucking when you release (yes you can do this if you get tired) which will cause more string side to side movement upon release causing your arrow to tear. Tear right usually means a stiff arrow btw if you do not think it is your release. You could increase point weight a little too. Do not bareshaft tune with broadheads!!!

 

[ketch22]

I forgot to mention that in the original post, I did nock tune every arrow, they were all consistent and the same slight high right tear prior to making any adjustments.

 

[bloodsoakedberber]

Have you shot it with the 100s instead of the 125s?

 

[ketch22]

I have not yet but they were so close with the 125’s I thought I could get it.
I’ll try the 100’s later and see if it helps.

 

[ketch22]

Have you shot it with the 100s instead of the 125s?

I bumped the rest back. these are both 125 grain holes through two different arrows. The 100’s through those arrows looked the same.

do I chase the rabbit? Or do I fletch ‘‘em up and go right to French tuning and BH tuning.

 

[bowhunthard88]

French tuning and bh tuning will eventually get you where you need to go. A "perfect" bs paper-tune is "supposed" to get you closer to your final tune, but it is still a starting point. I would consider checking timing, or moving your loop (vs. the rest) slightly. Every bow setup has a different final tuning solution lol.

 

[ketch22]

You’re not lying lol, I’ll let you know how it goes.