Turning down the poundage

[MNFarmHunter]

I have a 70# bow that is currently turned down to 58# and have zero desire to turn it up past 60# at most. The bow works, effectively kills deer and is accurate. The question I don't know and can't seem to get a straight answer on is whether I should leave well enough alone or get a new bow that is max 60#.

By having it turned down, I assume I'm losing efficiency but would 60# limbs be more efficient than 70# limbs turned down to 60#?

Does turning down the poundage increase noise?

 

[MattMan81]

What kinda bow? Generally there is a loss of efficiency. How much? Depends on the bow. Extra noise? Possibly. Depends on the bow. @Nutterbuster mentioned when he tuned bows before, that he noticed a noise difference when turned down. He noted a 60 shooting at 60, was faster than a 70 set at 60 say. How much? Not sure. Depends on the bow. If you really like it, maybe see how much replacement limbs are? Or if it's tuned good, and noise doesn't seem that bad. Keep on killing with it.

 

[Hunter260]

Old bows were much more efficient when maxed out. That’s because our manufacturing technologies were not where they are today. There was slop and rattle in the limbs if they weren’t cranked down tight. Today, there’s debate about whether or not there’s a difference. In new bows, it’s so precisely done and the limb pockets usually have more than 1 bolt to hold them in place that it probably doesn’t matter. What you’ll find today though is new flagship bows only have a 10lb range of draw weight.

Just for comparison my wife shoots a diamond that goes from 7lb to 70lb set at like 40lb. It’s loud and shoots like a turd.

My opinion is by a 60 and max it out.

 

[raisins]

I have a 70# bow that is currently turned down to 58# and have zero desire to turn it up past 60# at most. The bow works, effectively kills deer and is accurate. The question I don't know and can't seem to get a straight answer on is whether I should leave well enough alone or get a new bow that is max 60#.

By having it turned down, I assume I'm losing efficiency but would 60# limbs be more efficient than 70# limbs turned down to 60#?

Does turning down the poundage increase noise?

Older bows were bad about this. If you turned a bow way down, then the already squishy backwall became horrible.

Based upon that, I always buy a 60 lbs max bow and crank it down all the way.

The new bow at 30 inches is only 58 lbs maxed out, even though back in the day most 60 lbs bows would go slightly over 60 in that configuration.

I can pull back 70 lbs pretty easy, but like you I find that 60 lbs is plenty for deer. I'd take it elk hunting also, if given the chance.

Plus, a bow maxed out looks nicer (doesn't really matter, but it does look better), and you don't have to count turns to make it even. If you have to turn the limb bolts down for some reason (to make cam removal easier, etc), then just crank it down all the way when done.

 

[woodsdog2]

I have a 70# bow that is currently turned down to 58# and have zero desire to turn it up past 60# at most. The bow works, effectively kills deer and is accurate. The question I don't know and can't seem to get a straight answer on is whether I should leave well enough alone or get a new bow that is max 60#.

By having it turned down, I assume I'm losing efficiency but would 60# limbs be more efficient than 70# limbs turned down to 60#?

Does turning down the poundage increase noise?

Generally, the entire bow system will be more efficient with the limbs maxed out. If you want to shoot 58lbs buy a 60lb limb bow but I agree with @Hunter260, buy a 60 shoot it at 60. Buy a 45, shoot it at 45. Buy an 85, shoot it at 85.

 

[Red Beard]

The bow works, effectively kills deer and is accurate.

Sounds like you want a new bow. Your statement above answers your end question with a "who cares".

 

[Exhumis]

Old bows were much more efficient when maxed out. That’s because our manufacturing technologies were not where they are today. There was slop and rattle in the limbs if they weren’t cranked down tight. Today, there’s debate about whether or not there’s a difference. In new bows, it’s so precisely done and the limb pockets usually have more than 1 bolt to hold them in place that it probably doesn’t matter. What you’ll find today though is new flagship bows only have a 10lb range of draw weight.

Just for comparison my wife shoots a diamond that goes from 7lb to 70lb set at like 40lb. It’s loud and shoots like a turd.

My opinion is by a 60 and max it out.

Man I have an old diamond as a back up and that thing sounds like a tornado hit a ball bearing factory its so loud.
To the OP I had a 70# Mathews HTR, widely regarded as one of the quietest and smoothest drawing bows that I shot at #60 and it was pretty quiet. I've been shooting a Bowtech Realm SS #60 bow and it's maxed at 60 and its smoother, quieter and shoots harder than my HTR did. When I say it shoots harder I'm getting deeper penetration(I know this because I put an arrow through the basement wall please don't tell the wife) and greater passthroughs of deer with the same arrow build on new strings. My son was shagging arrows for me one night and commented daddy this bow is quieter than you old bow, so I know if a young pair of ears noticed then it must be something. Just my thoughts. But what @Red Beard said, I think you need a new bow. Good news is new year is around the corner! Classifieds are about to be flooded!

 

[Weldabeast]

I'm a dummy...keep that in mind..

Doesn't the projectile determine how efficient the bow is at using the energy the limbs produce.....for a given arrow weight there will be a corresponding draw weight that would be the most efficient....and as draw weight changes the projectile weight would change right along with it....right? I'm not sure how u figure that 1 out...

 

[Hunter260]

I'm a dummy...keep that in mind..

Doesn't the projectile determine how efficient the bow is at using the energy the limbs produce.....for a given arrow weight there will be a corresponding draw weight that would be the most efficient....and as draw weight changes the projectile weight would change right along with it....right? I'm not sure how u figure that 1 out...

Nah

 

[woodsdog2]

The law of diminishing returns sets in with any system. The projectile is part of the system yes but so is the bow. The bow's design in terms of its ability to store potential energy is determined by many factors including the cam design, amount of limb pre-bend, deflection, etc. all have to be taken into account into the equation. If a bow is designed to store 60 lbs. with x amount of limb prebend, with this cam, at this draw length, with this length string and this length cable, and then you enter a variable (like loosening the limb bolts) into that, you are making the system theoretically more inefficient. It doesn't mean the bow is bad or good, it just means there are optimal settings for that bow based on its inherent design. Any deviation from that may equate to a less efficient potential energy storage system. So upon release of the arrow, with the design tolerances now physically changed, other inefficiencies like friction, resistance etc. enter into the equation at a greater rate or level. The bow is still totally usable and highly effective at doing its job.... just perhaps not at its optimal design capacity.

The weight of the arrow comes into the equation when the bows' potential energy moves to kinetic energy (or the shot). And yes, generally the heavier the arrow the more of the bows' stored energy goes into moving that heavier arrow than being wasted by friction compared to a lighter arrow but there is still the point as to how effective the bow builds up energy during its draw cycle prior to the shot and then again how its overall system helps or (detracts) in its ability to convert that stored energy to the arrow upon release. That's why minute adjustments like cable and string twists all have an impact including how far out or in a bows limb bolts are adjusted.

 

[RamBam]

I switched to all 60lbs. The speed difference isn’t much. But I’d rather the bow work at its max efficiency. Plus most 60lbs bows can pull upwards of around 64 no issue. My 60# Darton was twisted up and tuned at 65 from them. I have zero regrets going from 70 nor does my shoulder. Still flings logs pretty good. 595 grain arrow and 28” draw exact shooting 241 fps on my chrono. No peep. Just a nose button and d loop.

 

[OHtard]

Older bows were bad about this. If you turned a bow way down, then the already squishy backwall became horrible.

Based upon that, I always buy a 60 lbs max bow and crank it down all the way.

The new bow at 30 inches is only 58 lbs maxed out, even though back in the day most 60 lbs bows would go slightly over 60 in that configuration.

I can pull back 70 lbs pretty easy, but like you I find that 60 lbs is plenty for deer. I'd take it elk hunting also, if given the chance.

Plus, a bow maxed out looks nicer (doesn't really matter, but it does look better), and you don't have to count turns to make it even. If you have to turn the limb bolts down for some reason (to make cam removal easier, etc), then just crank it down all the way when done.

sounds like you need to twist the cables up a couple turns. Measure brace height, and ata. I’m guessing you have a bit of string/cable stretch.

 

[raisins]

sounds like you need to twist the cables up a couple turns. Measure brace height, and ata. I’m guessing you have a bit of string/cable stretch.

i checked all that, it was like that from the factory (custom order shipped to shop and i picked it up next day) and ata, brace, and draw length are all dead on

bowtech measured it at 29 inches at 60 lbs on the dot, so their tag said

the difference is likely that i measure draw weight using a draw board with an infinitely adjustable worm gear and a crane scale inline, i draw it very slowly and pause after each microturn while near peak weight and measure peak weight while the bow is static/string not moving

in comparison, many shops and makers have weight scales that measure max weight experienced and then they draw back the bow in one fell swoop, like a bow shop with their scale mounted overhead and they pull down

the harder/faster you pull down, then the higher the weight measured because you are measuring holding weight plus the force of acceleration (holding a 5 lbs weight vs moving it quickly overhead)

which is more accurate? you actually experience whatever weight determined by how quickly you draw the bow because the weight isn't really a weight (mass x force of gravity) but rather the force imparted

the more consistent way, shop to shop, is how i do it because otherwise you'd have to specify the rate of draw (inches per second)

 

[woodsdog2]

i checked all that, it was like that from the factory (custom order shipped to shop and i picked it up next day) and ata, brace, and draw length are all dead on

bowtech measured it at 29 inches at 60 lbs on the dot, so their tag said

the difference is likely that i measure draw weight using a draw board with an infinitely adjustable worm gear and a crane scale inline, i draw it very slowly and pause after each microturn while near peak weight and measure peak weight while the bow is static/string not moving

in comparison, many shops and makers have weight scales that measure max weight experienced and then they draw back the bow in one fell swoop, like a bow shop with their scale mounted overhead and they pull down

the harder/faster you pull down, then the higher the weight measured because you are measuring holding weight plus the force of acceleration (holding a 5 lbs weight vs moving it quickly overhead)

which is more accurate? you actually experience whatever weight determined by how quickly you draw the bow because the weight isn't really a weight (mass x force of gravity) but rather the force imparted

the more consistent way, shop to shop, is how i do it because otherwise you'd have to specify the rate of draw (inches per second)

Yes, a draw board with a turnbuckle or worm gear type adjustment is the most accurate way to check the bows' draw weight.