Want To Get Into Bow Hunting

[OHtard]

Go to your local shop and spend a some time with one of the employees. Pay for a lesson if they have rental bows, if not ask to shoot a few new ones. Find out your draw length, and what you like and dislike, along with the weight you are comfortable with. If they don’t charge you take them a pizza, or a 12 pack. You will need their help eventually, let them know you appreciate their help.
Take that knowledge and go to archerytalk and start shopping. You can easily pick up a nice used bow fully ready to hunt under $400.
If you want a recurve watch this.

It will cover the basics on what you need to start. And start light. 40-45 pounds tops!!! Have fun. If you need help with any trad questions feel free to messsage me, I have help a few of my buddy’s get into it.

 

[EricS]

I’ll preface this with I HAVE NOT killed a deer with traditional equipment. That said from ground level I was comfortable to 25 yards after only a month of practice. I’ll give it a go next year again. I’m going to recommend a clicker. It’s easy to short draw while in a tree and draw length changes much more than just speed. They are definitely more fun to shoot than compounds.

 

[bigjoe]

If you are interested in archery and a recurve, stick with your commitment. Just realize it takes time. A good recurve from Hoyt and others can be had for $200 -$300.00. It makes it very simplistic. It takes time to practice. Since you want to make a bow, there are probably a bowyer or two on this forum. I actually have a book on bowyers. I was fortunate and bought my first bow, an old Bear recurve at a yard sale. I practiced and practiced. Of course I was a kid. The riser was cracked and my dad fixed and it eventually split after several more seasons. I harvested a handful of deer with that first recurve. I got into compounds and bought a Bear Whitetail. I am telling you my age, lol. I never could settle into a the right compound. I eventually got a Mathews Helium, that is just incredible. That being said, I own a Hoyt recurve and still hunt with the Hoyt. It does take practice with a recurve. A lot of guys hunt a recurve with no sites. My younger brother never had site’s info his compound and I would tell you he was very proficient with it and better than most people. All depends on what you want to spend and time commitments.

 

[Kurt]

I just picked up a Samick Sage at 40#s. I've been shooting since the summer. I've bow hunted for 28 yrs with a compound, and killed a bunch of deer. Next year I'll come out of the gate sporting my recurve and depending how it goes I may never go back to the compound. That being said I'm hot on making hunting arrows for both the compound and the recurve. I may end up pulling out the compound for the 2 weeks that I usually hunt during the rut next year, but I'll see how it goes with the recurve. YOU CAN start things off with traditional equipment if that's what you want. Be realistic about the end result, because it WILL be harder to get as close as you will need to get with a trad bow. Only you know what your looking to do. If it's meat at the end of the year, just blast something with muzzy or your rifle.

 

[EricS]

Cabela's Ranger 62'' Recurve Bow : Cabela's

Cabela's Rangers is built with traditional style and designed for beginners. Beautiful hardwood riser features a comfort grip and is warm in the hand. Wood core and black fiberglass limbs power arrows with amazing authority. Ready to shoot out of the box with the nock set and rest installed...

www.cabelas.com

Everyone is going to tell you to start with lighter draw. That ones similar to the sage and 29lbs at a pretty good price. I wouldn’t hunt with that weight but it would be a good starting point for someone who has never used a bow. Stuff like your finger tab will work on your next bow but your arrows will be specific to your draw weight.

Like others said above if killing a big buck with a bow is super important you’ll want to look into modern bows.

Most guys that take the self bow route and cut /dry/straighten their own arrows are grinning ear to ear after they kill a button buck.

 

[DanCrossNYC]

I see no reason to start with any type bow other than the type you want. Allegheny Tom gave great advice.
Why not get into bowhunting for the challenge of getting as close as possible to your quarry. You will shoot at less deer than if you're carrying a longer range weapon. Only you can decide those limitations for yourself.
But if you have a preconceived picture in your mind of that big bucklying dead at your feet and the sooner that becomes reality the better then pick up the most effective arrow flinging device you can get your hands on so you can check that box off.
If method and process are more important then follow your heart. Lots of us did before we had ever heard of a compound. Absolutely no regrets here.

I think you hit it on the head here: it comes back to the goal.

When I was in the military we had an expression when training: "crawl, walk, run."

Jumping into the deep end with a trad now right out the gate may be just fine, provided you are ok with deferred success because it's that much harder. On the other hand, if you want a decent shot at filling your freeze next season, then go to the compound until you've mastered the basics of bowhunting, then step up the challenge with a trad bow.

 

[CrackbottomLouis]

I see no reason to start with any type bow other than the type you want. Allegheny Tom gave great advice.
Why not get into bowhunting for the challenge of getting as close as possible to your quarry. You will shoot at less deer than if you're carrying a longer range weapon. Only you can decide those limitations for yourself.
But if you have a preconceived picture in your mind of that big bucklying dead at your feet and the sooner that becomes reality the better then pick up the most effective arrow flinging device you can get your hands on so you can check that box off.
If method and process are more important then follow your heart. Lots of us did before we had ever heard of a compound. Absolutely no regrets here.

Yeah, much less worried about filling tags than learning a new skill I enjoy and becoming a better hunter/woodsman. Doesnt take me long to stock my freezer for the year. I can always take the rifle out when I want to. Also expecting first kid next summer and there are many archery opportunities closer to my house on public properties. Thinking next fall it will be a lot easier to get out for an afternoon than take a 2-3 day trip to my hunting lease.

 

[bj139]

If you are a gun guy and your state allows archery hunting with a crossbow I would buy that. Less time required to be accurate.

 

[CrackbottomLouis]

If you are a gun guy and your state allows archery hunting with a crossbow I would buy that. Less time required to be accurate.

Not as worried about successful hunting as I am with learning a fun new way to approach my favorite hobby. I've tried crossbows and I just dont like them. If I gonna do that I'd rather use a short range rifle like my 35 rem or 45/70. I hog hunt with my 10/22 and my favorite deer spots are deep in swamps with very short range shots so I dont think its gonna be as much of a drastic transition as it might be for rifle hunters hunting long distance. I shoot/teach long distance for target shooting but don't hunt that way. I'm in the southeast not out west so the vast majority of my "long" hunting shots top out at 100 yards or less.

 

[Medicgray]

Easiest way to get into bow hunting. Used compound, 50-60#. Appropriately spined and length arrows, aluminum are cheaper but can bend and get dings, great to start off with. carbon are more durable, until they snap. Use a wrist strap release or hand release. Use arrows around 500-600grains with a fixed Broadhead, mechanicals if you want, but 50-60# may not yield the best results. ( a lot of old timers have gone back to fixed...myself included). Whisper biscuit is cheap rest and great for hunting. If you can afford it, or have 1 a laser rangefinder is a game changer when starting out. Find 1 with angle compensation is better (gives true distance vs line of sight)
Have someone set the bow up to you and tune it. Arrows need to fly true and the bow needs to be adjusted to do this- punch a bullet hole in paper.
Then find a mentor, can be a bow hunter or a target shooter. You want to learn correct form. ( a lot of beginners don’t bend at the waist from a tree stand, throwing their form..and shot off)
The it just practice practice practice.
Don’t get caught up on speed.. the bow manufactures use speed as measuring stick about who’s bow is better, etc. instead concentrate on accurately placing a razor sharp arrow into your game. A self bow at 170fps with razor sharp Broadhead can and still does kill deer.



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[SETXsportsman6]

Yeah. That's the intimidating part. Completely relearning to hunt in a very different way.

But, your point about the end result becoming a much better hunter and woodsman really speaks to me. I think that's been the driving force behind my bowhunting itch and I'm really looking forward to it.

Even with a rifle most of my shots are within 50 to 100 yards. I don't hunt large fields unless I'm feeling particularly lazy. However, I'm sure the difference between 50 and 20 yards is going to be an eye opening challenge.

Dude, you are going to love bowhunting. It's freaking exhilarating. My personal opinion, a doe with a bow is a better trophy than a buck with a rifle from 200 yds away!

 

[gumby]

I may be the only one but I shoot a 62# compound and can draw it slow and easy, no problem. I also have a 45# Kodiak and it beats me to death, have a hard time holding at full draw.

 

[EricS]

I may be the only one but I shoot a 62# compound and can draw it slow and easy, no problem. I also have a 45# Kodiak and it beats me to death, have a hard time holding at full draw.

That’s because on your 62# bow you’re only holding 12-15 lbs at full draw.

 

[Weldabeast]

The only thing I would add is to skip shooting dots and go right to 3d targets.....I think it's counterproductive to teach your brain to focus on dots when nothing I ever shot at had anything even resembling a dot on it

 

[Weldabeast]

I may be the only one but I shoot a 62# compound and can draw it slow and easy, no problem. I also have a 45# Kodiak and it beats me to death, have a hard time holding at full draw.

I turned mine down to 58-60 once I got the saddle.....never checked on a scale.....but I wish I wouldn't have started at 70. 40 is the minimum allowed to hunt in my state and I'm really tempted to drop it down.

 

[Nutterbuster]

The only thing I would add is to skip shooting dots and go right to 3d targets.....I think it's counterproductive to teach your brain to focus on dots when nothing I ever shot at had anything even resembling a dot on it

That's why I like shooting at fawns. "Pick a spot."

 

[Weldabeast]

That's why I like shooting at fawns. "Pick a spot."

I saw that 1 coming as soon as I posted

 

[Westdesign03]

I may be the only one but I shoot a 62# compound and can draw it slow and easy, no problem. I also have a 45# Kodiak and it beats me to death, have a hard time holding at full draw.

You’re not the only one. I’ve never been able to draw 70 that I know of. Even if I could I doubt I would. Not worth the wear and tear on the shoulder. I’m probably around 62-63# and whacked my first buck this year at 32 yards no problem. Wasn’t a pass through but I still smoked both lungs without issue.


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[Bowmanmike]

Another guy here pulling a tad over 60# on my compound. I can shoot all day if i want and pull back as slow as i have to.

 

[GCTerpfan]

Not as worried about successful hunting as I am with learning a fun new way to approach my favorite hobby. I've tried crossbows and I just dont like them. If I gonna do that I'd rather use a short range rifle like my 35 rem or 45/70. I hog hunt with my 10/22 and my favorite deer spots are deep in swamps with very short range shots so I dont think its gonna be as much of a drastic transition as it might be for rifle hunters hunting long distance. I shoot/teach long distance for target shooting but don't hunt that way. I'm in the southeast not out west so the vast majority of my "long" hunting shots top out at 100 yards or less.

It sounds like you want to go the traditional route. If that's the case don't let people talk you out of it just because a compound is easier. If you wanted to take the easier route you would have stuck with the crossbow. I went back to my recurve this past year and had more fun killing the smallest spike I have ever seen in the woods, then I did killing bigger bucks with a crossbow.

The best advice I can give is get on some forums or better yet find someone that shoots trad close to you, get a cheap bow and some arrows that are close to the right spine and go shoot A LOT. You will figure the rest out as you go. Trad doesn't have to be complicated.