• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

When do you switch to Broadheads?

Joe_Bow

Joe_Bow

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2019
Messages
249
If this has been asked before, I apologize - I did a search and could not find a thread.

For the archers out there - when do you switch from field points to a practice broadhead?
 
Joe_Bow said:
If this has been asked before, I apologize - I did a search and could not find a thread.

For the archers out there - when do you switch from field points to a practice broadhead?
Click to expand...

Personally, I do as soon as I think my bow is properly tuned. If it’s perfectly tuned you won’t have a poi shift. If my broadheads (fixed blades) are hitting off from my field points I continue to fine tune until I get both shooting the same. Hope that helps.


Sent from parts unknown
 
I shoot 1 or 2 broadheads a day starting way back in the spring. I have some of the big plastic cold steel cheap shot broadheads that I practice with. If you can get those to fly with your field points anything will
 
Joe_Bow said:
If this has been asked before, I apologize - I did a search and could not find a thread.

For the archers out there - when do you switch from field points to a practice broadhead?
Click to expand...

Part of my tuning process is broadhead tuning to make my field points and broadheads hit at the same point. I do this during initial set up and during periodic tuning checks and right before season. Other than that, I practice with field points because if they shoot the same as broadheads, then I see no point in shooting the broadheads much.

I find that if bareshafts and fletched shafts both have perfect tears and my bareshafts and fletched hit at the same point at 20 yards, then my broadheads and field points hit the same out to 40 yards. If they do not, then I microadjust my rest until they do. I then go back and recheck my paper tears and bareshaft groups at 20 yards. If they are the same or even better, then I am happy and assume that the 40 yard tweak actually improved the bow tune.
 
I don't really switch to/sight in broadheads, but I will check/verify throughout the season that my practice head is grouping with my fieldpoints. Infact just this morning I verified that they group out to 60 yards. I don't spend any time indexing my broadheads but when I build my arrows I do verify that they all spin true with a broadhead that I know is straight. As long as your bow is tuned and your arrow is moving perfectly down the power stroke of your bow you shouldn't see any poi shift (as others have already mentioned) from FP to BH.
 
heretic said:
I don't really switch to/sight in broadheads, but I will check/verify throughout the season that my practice head is grouping with my fieldpoints. Infact just this morning I verified that they group out to 60 yards. I don't spend any time indexing my broadheads but when I build my arrows I do verify that they all spin true with a broadhead that I know is straight. As long as your bow is tuned and your arrow is moving perfectly down the power stroke of your bow you shouldn't see any poi shift (as others have already mentioned) from FP to BH.
Click to expand...

A game changer for me has been a lumenock arrow squaring device. I square the nock end before fletching. I also square the insert end before gluing and then square the insert after it is glued in. I no longer get that weird arrow that doesn't spin right.
 
When my field points an broad heads are hitting right next to each other or touching then I feel comfortable shooting either in practice.( severable good YouTube videos on turning your broadheads to your field trips )
I’ll shoot a broad head at 30 and shoot a field point next to it.
You go to the woods with a lot of confidence.
 
Tree hunter said:
When my field points an broad heads are hitting right next to each other or touching then I feel comfortable shooting either in practice.( severable good YouTube videos on turning your broadheads to your field trips )
I’ll shoot a broad head at 30 and shoot a field point next to it.
You go to the woods with a lot of confidence.
Click to expand...

Just my opinion, but I never shoot arrows at the same spot on a target (especially when broadheads are involved). Do this enough and you'll start tearing up arrows (your first robin hood is cool and the rest are just wasted money). I shoot pin nocks and even that isn't a guarantee even with field points. This is doubly true if you shoot wraps because they will hide arrow damage at the back of the arrow. This year, I hit an arrow hard when bareshaft tuning (I broke my rule of placing separate dots on the target) and thank goodness I unwrapped it. The last 1/2 inch of carbon was spider webbed and probably would have caused a dry fire or worse.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top