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Zinger Fletches

KingSinglePin

KingSinglePin

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2022
Messages
60
Location
Northeast Georgia
Anyone running Zingers? I'm contemplating an entire upgrade/overhaul of my archery gear before 2023 season and thinking of using Zingers but looking for first hand reviews
 
KingSinglePin said:
Anyone running Zingers? I'm contemplating an entire upgrade/overhaul of my archery gear before 2023 season and thinking of using Zingers but looking for first hand reviews
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I didn’t like how they would move every few shots (whisker biscuit). Also if you use lighted nocks it might take the nock out while going through a deer. I used them last year and ended up glueing them into the arrows but have since moved on. They’re pretty expensive compared to fletching your own arrows if you plan on doing more than a dozen. Had no problems with arrow flight if that helps though.


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jtw0057 said:
I didn’t like how they would move every few shots (whisker biscuit). Also if you use lighted nocks it might take the nock out while going through a deer. I used them last year and ended up glueing them into the arrows but have since moved on. They’re pretty expensive compared to fletching your own arrows if you plan on doing more than a dozen. Had no problems with arrow flight if that helps though.


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Thats a good point though. Lots of options that would be more consistent for practice/hunting scenarios. I greatly appreciate your input!
 
I’ve used them for three years now and really like them. They have a lifetime warranty (you just pay shipping) by shipping your damaged ones to them and they will send new ones back. I like that you can spine tune your arrows and then continue to rotate them on each shaft to get all your shafts flying very well. I’ve had instances where I’ve had to rotate or nock tune even after shooting off the stiffest part of the spine of the shaft and it makes that shaft still very usable. I’ve been using the Z1’s but bought the newer Z2 and will likely try them out this season. I can’t speak highly enough about them and I have built my own arrows for years.
 
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I use them also. I have the 4 blade ones. I like them but on pass thru shots they do pop off. My lighted nock stayed on but I wasn't able to find my zinger. Only looked for a few minutes, but 0 for 2 on finding them. Lol. I too like them for the ease in turning the arrow to the bow.
 
I tried them but have since switched to micro diameter shafts (Vector HMR) that came fletched and haven’t gone back. I suck at fletching arrows so I found them appealing to be able to slip on and still tune.

Maybe depends on what your goals are. I watched the live stream of the Lancaster Archery classic last weekend and don’t recall seeing anyone using them on their target arrows. When I used them on my hunting arrows, I didn’t notice flight problems. I have nowhere near the shooting skills of the tournament shooters though.

like the others have said, you will want to put a couple dabs of fletching glue on them once you get them set so they don’t come off on a passthrough.

For the guys that used them, what degree offset did you find worked best?
 
I went with the 6° offset. Not worried about speed and figured the six would stabilize better. I shoot a drop away rest so wasn't worried about a WB rest. I have a new bow on order now (Bowtech Revolt XL) and I have 300, 250 and 200 shafts so I should be able to rebuild suitable high foc arrows to fit new bow with the zinger fletchings. And be able to bare shaft tune also.
 
They seem so stiff that if they barely touched a twig they would massively deflect.
 
woodsdog2 said:
I’ve used them for three years now and really like them. They have a lifetime warranty (you just pay shipping) by shipping your damaged ones to them and they will send new ones back. I like that you can spine tune your arrows and then continue to rotate them on each shaft to get all your shafts flying very well. I’ve had instances where I’ve had to rotate or nock tune even after shooting off the stiffest part of the spine of the shaft and it makes that shaft still very usable. I’ve been using the Z1’s but bought the newer Z2 and will likely try them out this season. I can’t speak highly enough about them and I have built my own arrows for years.
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Lifetime warranty is definitely a nice touch. I have a lot to learn about arrow builds and the process. Such as spine tuning as you mentioned. I'm glad you've had a great experience with them
 
BlessdHuntr said:
I use them also. I have the 4 blade ones. I like them but on pass thru shots they do pop off. My lighted nock stayed on but I wasn't able to find my zinger. Only looked for a few minutes, but 0 for 2 on finding them. Lol. I too like them for the ease in turning the arrow to the bow.
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I may have misunderstood but I thought I'd read somewhere that the design was for them to fall off on a passthrough shot so you know where the point of impact was? I can see where this would be helpful in tracking in a perfect world but, as in your experience, recovering them seems like it'd be tough.
 
I shot them this year. One pass through, found it easily laying 2' from my arrow buried in the dirt. Shooting 100gr inserts and 125gr single bevel heads. Good enough accuracy out to 50 with my shooting abilities. I like them. Sold off some arrows last year as I changed spine, slipped em off and put em right on my new arrows.

Shooting woody's Starburst nocks they did not pull them out of the arrow.
 
raisins said:
They seem so stiff that if they barely touched a twig they would massively deflect.
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They’re actually quite malleable. You can scrunch them in your hand but they go right back to shape. The only thing I noticed with the OG Z1’s is my drop away rest was slipping and I didn’t realize it. I shot several times and one of the three vanes on several started to split. I then looked at my Limbdriver rest and realized the timing was off. I pulled the rest cord taught again and voila!, no more split vanes. I shipped the ones that ripped back to the company and they sent me all new ones for the cost of postage only. It was $6.00 I believe.
 
woodsdog2 said:
They’re actually quite malleable. You can scrunch them in your hand but they go right back to shape. The only thing I noticed with the OG Z1’s is my drop away rest was slipping and I didn’t realize it. I shot several times and one of the three vanes on several started to split. I then looked at my Limbdriver rest and realized the timing was off. I pulled the rest cord taught again and voila!, no more split vanes. I shipped the ones that ripped back to the company and they sent me all new ones for the cost of postage only. It was $6.00 I believe.
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I've said it before but I'll say it again, being able to send damaged ones back for replacements is a pretty nice in my opinion
 
Couple questions; do they float? If u do glue them on to were they won't fall off are they able to be removed again without damage.

I've looked at them for a while and like the ease of install and tuning but not sold on them coming off. I tape the lighted nocks on so I hopefully don't loose any of those. Having 100 white feathers already doesn't help....feathers getting beat up so quick is the only reason I was looking at these. I never weighed but interwebs says 3.6 grains for 3 feathers of the flavor I have. How much does a 3 wing zinger weigh?
 
KingSinglePin said:
I may have misunderstood but I thought I'd read somewhere that the design was for them to fall off on a passthrough shot so you know where the point of impact was? I can see where this would be helpful in tracking in a perfect world but, as in your experience, recovering them seems like it'd be tough.
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Yeah the plan is to find them. But I have lost two so far. Lol. I guess the warranty Is useless if I don't take the time to find them.
 
Weldabeast said:
Couple questions; do they float? If u do glue them on to were they won't fall off are they able to be removed again without damage.

I've looked at them for a while and like the ease of install and tuning but not sold on them coming off. I tape the lighted nocks on so I hopefully don't loose any of those. Having 100 white feathers already doesn't help....feathers getting beat up so quick is the only reason I was looking at these. I never weighed but interwebs says 3.6 grains for 3 feathers of the flavor I have. How much does a 3 wing zinger weigh?
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Z1 = 10 - 16.0 gr
Turkey = 14 - 22 gr
Zingers = 12 - 16.5 gr

I am looking at feathers too, to save weight. Some of the lightest vanes I've found are SK2 from flex fletch @ 4.5 each I believe

Edit: Zingers look to be 20% off right now
 
Weldabeast said:
Couple questions; do they float? If u do glue them on to were they won't fall off are they able to be removed again without damage.

I've looked at them for a while and like the ease of install and tuning but not sold on them coming off. I tape the lighted nocks on so I hopefully don't loose any of those. Having 100 white feathers already doesn't help....feathers getting beat up so quick is the only reason I was looking at these. I never weighed but interwebs says 3.6 grains for 3 feathers of the flavor I have. How much does a 3 wing zinger weigh?
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I wouldn't glue them. When you order you tell them the spine, outside diameter and make and model of shaft you are using. They are a tight fit at first. The only movement I've experienced with them is target shooting. I install them 1.5" from the back the shaft or base of the nock. I then take a paint marker and dab an orange dot on each end so if my practice ones do slide, you just slide them back between the two marks. I was using a sharpie but it wore off. The paint markers work way better.... also better for nock tuning marks as well fyi.
 
When installing the zingers, I wipe the shaft down with rubbing alcohol first. When nock tuning I've also had to take some warm water and a drop or two of dawn dish soap and drop them in it then slide it on the shaft. Works great but with the Z1's I was never able to move them rotationally around the shaft, you have to slide them back of, then orient it on the location you want then slide it back on. I believe this keeps them from loosening as much as people trying to rotate them around the shaft at the location you want them. Does that make sense?
 
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