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???DIY Woodpecker Drills????

I find myself conflicted... I would like to see it in person just to see what it's like, but I feel like I would grab a hand hold only to find myself hanging in space like Wile Coyote with a sign. Minus the sign just a post. I hunt mostly public land here in missouri and damaging a tree in anyway shape or form is illegal so I think this would be out. But they are fuzzy on climbing gaffs. The law says "spikes" not gaffs so I think that's the way the people that use gaffs read it. Honestly I think the law is to just prevent people from leaving metal in tree producing a ton of scetchy lumber.

I can't use this system on any state or USFS land, but the Army Corps of Engineers allows it. Corps property around me totals upwards of around 30,000 acres of deer hunting and another 1,800 acres of pig only land where bolts, spurs, and screw in steps are fair game. I really think spurs will end up being my go to system, but I love the idea of the bolts. Perhaps my pre-set, year after year, stands will get bolts and anything I'm not too sure I will sit just get cleaned up in preparation for using spurs. I will definitely be doing lots of testing at ground level to see if I am comfortable with 2" holes, or if I decide to go deeper. It sure just sounds good to go in with a Sit Drag, platform, and a duo pouch full of bolts as your whole system...


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Using the bolts is an awesome system if you are willing to prep your trees just prior to, or in season.
 
Using the bolts is an awesome system if you are willing to prep your trees just prior to, or in season.

Any ideas on how early you can drill them and not have issues with the tree growing in and making the hole unusable?


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Any ideas on how early you can drill them and not have issues with the tree growing in and making the hole unusable?


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No I'm not sure. I have only been using this system for a place where I can't access it until right before the season, so I go around and set my spots then.
 
How are the bolts as a platform?

I have heard they're about like screw in steps. (i.e. Uncomfortable) I plan on using my DaveT1963 platform with them. Also, there's been some talk of modifying bicycle pedals with a bolt for a platform.


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Well, I went out a bought a 3/8" kreg bit with drill stop. $20 out the door at Lowes. The "fat kid on cake" is a great description of how this bit chews through wood... I like it.
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What do you use as the handle / actual drill part? I found the bits in the store but no hand drill to use them in...
 
What do you use as the handle / actual drill part? I found the bits in the store but no hand drill to use them in...

I would use this with a cordless drill, not modified into a hand drill. I plan on using spurs for anything I didn't get to prep before season.


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I would use this with a cordless drill, not modified into a hand drill. I plan on using spurs for anything I didn't get to prep before season.


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I see, thanks!

I'll need something a little more quiet, have a bunch of trees with gnarly bases that I would like to hunt out ASAP...
 
Been using woodpecker drill and 3/8" X 6" GRADE 8 Bolts for over thirty years. The key I have found is make sure you don't let drill wobble when drilling hole or you will have a loose fit. I drill tree first time in - pull bolts out on way down and reuse hole next time to the same tree. I do not use them in pines always in some type of hard wood and have had many great hunts - never been left hanging or dangling for that matter!!!
 
Been using woodpecker drill and 3/8" X 6" GRADE 8 Bolts for over thirty years. The key I have found is make sure you don't let drill wobble when drilling hole or you will have a loose fit. I drill tree first time in - pull bolts out on way down and reuse hole next time to the same tree. I do not use them in pines always in some type of hard wood and have had many great hunts - never been left hanging or dangling for that matter!!!
I'm assuming you are using the hand drill if you're drilling first time in?
 
How are the bolts as a platform?[/QUOTE
I started with bolts early this season and found them to be much more comfortable than screw ins. I think the main reason is that I'm able to put them close together (can't turn screw ins into the tree if they are very close to each other). I set three on each side of the tree, about three finger widths apart and angling up the tree so my angle is in a neutral position. Then I put one in between them on my side of the tree, and one a bit higher on the back of the tree. That's eight for my platform. I have trouble with my feet (gout) so the way I stand makes a huge difference. This technique and adjusting my saddle have made all the difference in going from using the saddle in a pinch to using it all the time because it's comfortable.
BTW, I weigh 245, use grade 5 bolts (smooth shank!), and the EZ Cut sinks them 2 5/8 into the tree. I put them at a slight upward angle, and they never budge, even when I'm standing on only two and wrangling limbs out of a tree for shooting lanes.
 
I started with bolts early this season and found them to be much more comfortable than screw ins. I think the main reason is that I'm able to put them close together (can't turn screw ins into the tree if they are very close to each other). I set three on each side of the tree, about three finger widths apart and angling up the tree so my angle is in a neutral position. Then I put one in between them on my side of the tree, and one a bit higher on the back of the tree. That's eight for my platform. I have trouble with my feet (gout) so the way I stand makes a huge difference. This technique and adjusting my saddle have made all the difference in going from using the saddle in a pinch to using it all the time because it's comfortable.
BTW, I weigh 245, use grade 5 bolts (smooth shank!), and the EZ Cut sinks them 2 5/8 into the tree. I put them at a slight upward angle, and they never budge, even when I'm standing on only two and wrangling limbs out of a tree for shooting lanes.
How much do the bolts cost each? This might be something I considered for a permanent set tree in my property for my daughter.
 
How much do the bolts cost each? This might be something I considered for a permanent set tree in my property for my daughter.
I'm sure you can get them cheaper, but I buy them by the box and pay fifty bucks for fifty of them. I cover them down to the insertion point in camo duct tape. I didn't mention size...I use 6x3/8. They slide in easy, and they're easy to pull when you come down the tree. I owe much to the fella who posted the video about treebolts and the woodpecker drill.
 
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How much do the bolts cost each? This might be something I considered for a permanent set tree in my property for my daughter.

Here's a great deal on bolts someone posted on here a while back -
$30 for 35 bolts - Grade 8. I got two boxes to prep trees after season.
I'll be using a power drill tho - :expressionless:
 
when I used to do this with the grade 8 bolts, I would just use an old 'bit n brace' I bought at a flea/antique mart. quiet and plenty of leverage. since the advent of climbing sticks and the ban on bark piercing in most public lands I haven't bothered. I just don't see how bolts and drill could be anywhere close to as quiet and quick a few sticks are.
 
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