pesqimon
Well-Known Member
Yes I may do that after I come out of Saddle Hunter haze to practice with it enough to make up my mind.
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Trad bow
- Thread starter bongo
- Start date
Yes I may do that after I come out of Saddle Hunter haze to practice with it enough to make up my mind.
GBlevins92
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- Nov 27, 2016
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- 782
I think I'm gonna start less than that, I know you pick up some pounds for every inch past 28 and I shoot a 31" draw on my compound so I figured I might be best to buy a 25 or 30lb bow to get started.
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You’re right, stay light.
Good thinking. I always recommend 40-45 pounds just because most guys won’t go lower but 25-30 is perfect for form development. When I started I shot a 70 pound compound and thought for sure I could handle a 60 pound trad bow. Back then I was and had been working out with heavy weights and my ego wouldn’t let me shoot a “girls” bow. My bonehead mistake cost me valuable time in getting good form down and I had to retrain myself after I came to my senses. A motorcycle wreck and broken left shoulder helped with that. I had to work my way up from a 20 pound kids bow. Now I hunt with 40-50 pound bows because that is all that is needed.
New Jersey has a minimum poundage of 30 lbs from what I RE her. @redsquirrel or @lsr1456 may be able to comment better on this than me. I live in Va now & the law here for minimum bow strength is to cast an arrow 100 yds. What I am trying to say is depending on your state laws and your level of confidence you may able to hunt with a 30 lb bow.
My Hoyt is 50. But I also have a 31 draw. So I know I pick up some lbs.
My Hoyt is 50. But I also have a 31 draw. So I know I pick up some lbs.
Gettin Closer
Well-Known Member
As a rule of thumb (never exact but usually close), you will gain 2.5# to 3# in draw weight for every inch above or below the marked draw weight.
Example: the bow is marked 50# @ 28"
If you draw 31", you would be pulling about 57.5# to 59#.
Do keep in mind that the longer you draw, the longer bow you will need. Again, there are many different designs so call the Bowyer or Manufacture for guidelines on their bow. I draw 31 3/4" (monkey arms) and I could get by with a 62" bow but a 64" bow is much better. You can usually take a 60" bow up to 30" or so. Again, there are forward handle and many other designs that change this but it is a good rule of thumb.
I cannot agree more with the start low and build up. It will greatly improve your learning curve. Another huge recommendation is to get in touch with Tom Clum at RMS gear. (They are in Colorado but he can help through the web and video.) Best thing I ever did was spend $$$ on an archery clinic that was here in TX. My form, consistancy and accuracy have all improved.
Start off right and do not hurt your shoulders. Many have much success for years and then have to rebuild their shoulders due to improper form.
Now that I have all that hot air out of me, enjoy it! It is the most frustrating and enjoyable thing in the world! I started a couple of years ago and have sold my compound since then. I enjoy getting close and not getting a shot opportunity with my longbow more than getting a harvest with a rifle. That said, if I get invited to an open area, I still grab the rifle from time to time.
Vtbow
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- Mar 21, 2018
- Messages
- 5,516
I shoot anywhere from 43# to 50#. Personnally I find the shorter the bow, the more you feel the weight at anchor. When I have off days with the stronger bow, I always go back to the 43# and just concentrate on the basics. Amazing how helpful it is...
35#
noxninja
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- Dec 21, 2015
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- 1,388
Is this a "shoot off the shelf bow? I don't see that it is tapped for a rest so I am guessing that it is???Well just dropped the big bucks on a trad bow. Black Hunter from Hong Kong $132. # 40 60”We’ll see what it’s like on the dark side.
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Yes off the shelf. I thought about ILF but this was cheap and something to start with.
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noxninja
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- Dec 21, 2015
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have you gotten it in yet and if so what do you think?
Vtbow
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- Mar 21, 2018
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- 5,516
You can add a flipper rest if you don't want to shoot off the shelf. This would allow you to shoot vanes. You'd just have to throw the square on it and tie up some new knock points.
pesqimon
Well-Known Member
I have this bow and at least for now I added the stick on rest. Even though I suck at it, I think this bow is great! Very light and well finished. I really need to dedicate more time to it!
Oh no I just ordered it from Hong Kong last week. Not sure when it will come. I’m in the Eastern Mediterranean Just left Larnaca, Cyprus bound for Israel. I get off work first of August.
I joined a bowclub about 6 months ago used to be in it about 10 years ago. Anyway a lot of Trad shooters there with everything from cheap recurves to Expensive Olympic. A fellow that’s been there a long time had one of these and I shot it and had fun doing it. Talked to several people at the club and watched reviews on this particular bow and decided that it would be a good starter. And the guy that let me shoot it has some much more expensive bows but preferred this one.
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Good to know thanks. It’s hunting season when I get home so I’ll play with it but hunt with a compound this year.
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Not sure I know what I’m talking about. But the way it was explained to me was the longer your draw the longer you want your riser. In my mind the longer the bow the less force it takes to load it . The shorter the more force is put on the limbs and riser. So long arms long bow.
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GBlevins92
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- Nov 27, 2016
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Makes sense to me.... It's all geometry..... I've always liked longer bows my compound is 36 ata and I don't think I would have a problem hunting with even longer than that, short bows for me just always made the string angle so severe that it really brings the peep away from your eye. I think I'm going to look for something in the 64"-68" range.
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I just checked Va. it longer has a distance to cast an arrow. It now says archery tackle may be used.