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Important Information on Sterling Hollow Block

fawnzy said:
So is there a consensus? If rappelling using an ATC what is the safest back up/ friction hitch.?


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Hollow block will work great as an autoblock for rappelling. An autoblock doesnt hold hardly any weight. They're saying it isnt safe for life support. Like using it on your tether as a friction hitch.
 
Sorry. I’m not trying to add confusion.
An autoblock is used below an ATC during rappel. If held down, it slides along the main rope and you can descend in a controlled manner wheelie controlling the tag end of your rope with your brake hand. Correct?

If the auto block is released it tightens on the rope and stops your descent.

Is that not the purpose of an autoblock? Could you not use it to hold position while removing a step?

Is an autoblock less safe than a Prusik. If so, is it the knot itself that is less safe or that is is attached to a leg loop?

Or is it the material used on the autoblock?


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Sorry long typed response.


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When dealing with rope each situation could be different. Saying what is safe with one brand of rope/ prusik combination WILL NOT apply to others. Testing the desired combination at ground level is the only way to know. I would trust a TESTED rope/prusik combination autoblock situation to hold me hands free. I mean tested by me, not the manufacturer.
 
“NEVER to be used as the sole or primary connection”

That means precisely what you think it means. Anything that would leave you dangling from the hollowblock (and only the hollowblock) is not recommended by the manufacturer. This would definitely include use as your primary bridge connection while hunting.


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cb750 said:
I will point something else out here. I spoke to a climbing guy at a store similar to but not REI about how I climb and what I intended to use mine for. He thought it would be fine. But at no point did he go into detail and truthfully I believe he did not understand. Point being while this guy rock climbs he is likely hoping I know what I want/need. Its entirely possible that he misunderstood or just played along to make a sale. Either way no comfort to someone falling after their hollow block breaks. This isn't a dig at sales staff. It's me advocating for personal responsibility.

I've actually seem some wear on mine after very limited use. I will be getting rid of it.

We need to take extreme ownership of our actions and our gear. We can and should listen to advice and experience from others. But the choices are ultimately ours alone and literally our lives could depend on it. So act accordingly.
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I'm glad you said not REI because REI is definitely not a climbing store. More like a big box store with a small climbing department. The technical knowledge at places like REI is very hit and miss from my experience.
 
fawnzy said:
So is there a consensus? If rappelling using an ATC what is the safest back up/ friction hitch.?


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I seriously doubt you're going to get a consensus but the Sterling hollowblock is designed to be used as a friction hitch below a rappel device. Those exact words are on the instruction manual. It will continue to be my go to hitch for that purpose as it's the best I've found.

As discussed earlier in the thread, it should not be used as a primary safety connection at any time (i.e. bridge to tether). Great catch by the OP or whoever was responsible for starting this thread. I can easily see why someone would have assumed that to be a proper use of the product.
 
The Sterling Hollowblock is a high temperature resistant Prusik cord. If you are rappeling 800 feet down a cliff at high speed, you need it.
If you are rappeling 20 feet down a tree it is overkill. IMHO.
 
Just some experience, I found that the Hollowblock did not play with Sterling Oplux at all when tied in French Prusik (aka autoblock) manner. I may be wrong and correct me if I am, but autoblock refers to how that piece is used below your ATC and not necessarily what hitch is used. Meaning, a person could use a prusik or french prusik hitch for their autoblock? If that is the case in my testing the Hollowblock did not grab the Oplux at all using a french prusik no matter how many or few wraps I used. I did not test a standard prusik hitch as I wasn't sure you should use that hitch as an autoblock. I have ordered a Beal Jammy and will test it out.
 
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Squirrels said:
Just some experience, I found that the Hollowblock did not play with Sterling Oplux at all when tied in French Prusik manner. I may be wrong and correct me if I am, but autoblock refers to how that piece is used below your ATC and not necessarily what hitch is used. Meaning, a person could use a prusik or french prusik hitch for their autoblock? If that is the case in my testing the Hollowblock did not grab the Oplux at all using a french prusik no matter how many or few wraps I used. I did not test a standard prusik hitch as I wasn't sure you should use that hitch as an autoblock. I have ordered a Beal Jammy and will test it out.
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You're wrong. An autoblock is a specific type friction hitch. Just like the prusik and others.

An autoblock will "grab" any typical size static rope. When you tie the autoblock you can vary the number of turns around your mainline depending on the diameter of both. I typically use 4 wraps on 9mm HTP with the Sterling Hollowblock used as an autoblock friction hitch...as an example. Outdoor research has a good YouTube video explaining how to tie some of the different friction hitches.

 
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weekender21 said:
You're wrong. An autoblock is a specific type friction hitch. Just like the prusik and others.

An autoblock will "grab" any typical size static rope. When you tie the autoblock you can vary the number of turns around your mainline depending on the diameter of both. I typically use 4 wraps on 9mm HTP with the Sterling Hollowblock used as an autoblock friction hitch...as an example. Outdoor research has a good YouTube video explaining how to tie some of the different friction hitches.

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Thank you for clarifying that. The Hollowblock hitched as an autoblock would not grab the Oplux when I tried it though.
 
kyler1945 said:
To be honest, that instruction manual is by far the clearest one I’ve read on a climbing device in a while - they’re mostly quite confusing if you don’t understand common climbing language. Which is a problem that we alone are responsible for. Many of us are borrowing equipment from a different world, and just guessing at how it will work for us, or taking the advice of a guy on the Internet.
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This is a great point. I consider myself a pretty smart guy and I have to read and re-read instructions on these things and then I still don't fully understand. The jargon is this issue. I have basically given up on using anything but the basic climbing techniques because of this. I don't know what I don't know.

Climbing rated rope, rated prussik loops, and climbing rated caribiners are about the extent of my climbing inventory now....
 
I think that's one of the beauties and the beast of this saddle hunting community. People are always trying to find something new. I enjoy the reads, I enjoy the findings, but I am afraid there will be someone soon who doesn't get another chance at tinkering due to a failure. To be honest, i'm not sure at all what's to gain from going from a 6.5# set up to a 5.8# set up. Please know the limits of the materials you're using and then use extra caution.
 
I think this brings us back to the good old conversation about being a conscientious consumer. It's you're responsibility to know what you're buying and it's correct application, nobody else's. Do you assume Sunny D is pure Florida Orange Juice because it's Orange, or do you read the label to find out what it really is?
 
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