• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Important Information on Sterling Hollow Block

kyler1945 said:
...

Check out this link to the user's manual on the hollow block. It is a great tool meant for a specific use. Please read, and be sure you're using it properly.

https://amga.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/care_hollow-block-1.pdf

Pay specific attention to two details - it is NOT intended for use as primary connection, and extended UV exposure can weaken the fibers by up to 50%.
Click to expand...


@kyler1945

I am a canyoneer based in southern Utah, and not a hunter. It's interesting to see folks applying the same techniques and equipment across varying disciplines. This forum popped up in a recent Web search for hollowblock info. I am impressed with the level of safety awareness on display in this thread, and thank you for helping spread the word about this often misunderstood product. FWIW, here's a short take from the canyoneering world:

While working as a canyoneering guide back in 2011, I witnessed a hollowblock fail under bodyweight: a few guides were hanging around the basement of the outfitter shop, doing rope maneuvers a foot or two off the floor (rope anchored to ceiling beams). At that time, the guides were using HollowBlocks as a multipurpose tool: mainly as a "third hand" (aka autoblock rappel safety / backup) but also (hypothetically) as a friction hitch (e.g. Prusik) for ascending rope, or other primary attachment. One of the guides was practicing a changeover maneuver (changing from rappel to ascent) and had a hollowblock as his upper attachment point to the rope (tied in a friction hitch of some kind, probably an autoblock). Anyway almost immediately after weighting it, it failed and he fell a couple feet to the floor. Ouch, but NBD. It shook us up b/c although the hollowblock was worn and fuzzy, it was a unit that was part of the guiding equipment cache and still in service. We quickly assembled a few more worn samples and tried to break them by applying bodyweight, and by simply pulling by hand. I was able to break one with my bare hands (and I'm not particularly strong in the upper body dept.)

Also at that time, Sterling's product info/care sheet for the hollowblock was quite generic, covered several different sling and rope products and contained very little info specific to the product. Long story short, we immediately stopped viewing the hollowblock as anything other than a "third hand" and did a major inspection + culling of the equipment cache. We also stopped sales of the hollowblock and sourced an alternative product that could actually function as a multipurpose device: third hand, friction hitch for ascent, etc.

To add to your "two important details" above: a third important detail is the wear state. From the current care sheet:

Before EVERY use of the product, visually inspect the entire surface area of the product:

If any single yarn appears to be partially or fully cut, DO NOT use the product.

If the stitching under the plastic protective cover shows any signs of wear DO NOT use the product.

If the protective plastic cover is not present, do not use the product.

Significant or “fuzzy” looking yarns indicates damage to the fibers and therefore the strength of the product has been REDUCED from the value indicated on the label.

The amount of strength loss is extremely difficult to quantify without destructive testing and therefore the product should not be used after there is evidence of “fuzzing” on all of the yarns.


My overall takeaway: I would not carry and/or use a hollowblock—as standard kit—for any purpose, except in a pinch (e.g. borrowed gear in an emergency). All of my standard gear needs to be easily inspect-able and the hollowblock fails completely on that front. I also prefer items carried to be multipurpose. Perhaps the biggest problem is that the hollowblock appears to be fall protection equipment (Category III PPE), but is not - it's more like an accessory product.

After the bodyweight hollowblock failures in Winter 2011, testing was done, which revealed that making a good strength assessment of used hollowblocks via visual inspection was impossible. For this reason we switched to a sewn kernmantle cordage product, which are easily inspected for wear due to the core + sheath construction. If anyone is interested, I can dig up the test data and pix of the hollowblocks that were broken in testing.

===

-nm

October 2011 hollowblock web page (with link to product care/info sheet)

Sterling Rope :: Canyoneering Rope » Hollow Block

Shop Sterling Ropes, maker of the highest quality Canyon Rope and most technically advanced Canyoneering Rope for over fifteen years. Durable, light, and better handling means extraordinary performance in all conditions. The Hollow Block is a unique sewn prusik or climb heist made from our RIT...
web.archive.org web.archive.org
 
Last edited:
I went to practice and in getting up all my rappelling stuff realized my hollowblock was missing. Long story short I went out in the yard and found it underneath the last tree I had climbed, a week prior, and I had cut the grass so it definitely got run over by the mower. I picked it up and other than minor fuzzing, there is no noticeable damage. I was planning to continue to use it (as an autoblock rappelling with figure 8)...until I read this above post. Think I’ll get a replacement.
 
Last edited:
lecerfagile said:
@kyler1945

I am a canyoneer based in southern Utah, and not a hunter. It's interesting to see folks applying the same techniques and equipment across varying disciplines. This forum popped up in a recent Web search for hollowblock info. I am impressed with the level of safety awareness on display in this thread, and thank you for helping spread the word about this often misunderstood product. FWIW, here's a short take from the canyoneering world:

While working as a canyoneering guide back in 2011, I witnessed a hollowblock fail under bodyweight: a few guides were hanging around the basement of the outfitter shop, doing rope maneuvers a foot or two off the floor (rope anchored to ceiling beams). At that time, the guides were using HollowBlocks as a multipurpose tool: mainly as a "third hand" (aka autoblock rappel safety / backup) but also (hypothetically) as a friction hitch (e.g. Prusik) or other primary attachment. One of the guides was practicing a changeover maneuver (changing from rappel to ascent) and had a hollowblock as his upper attachment point to the rope (tied in a friction hitch of some kind, probably an autoblock). Anyway almost immediately after weighting it, it failed and he fell a couple feet to the floor. Ouch, but NBD. It shook us up b/c the hollowblock was worn/fuzzy but it was a unit that was part of the guiding equipment cache and still in service. We quickly assembled a few more worn samples and tried to break them by applying bodyweight, and by simply pulling by hand. I was able to break one with my bare hands (and I'm not particularly strong in the upper body dept.)

Also at that time, Sterling's product info/care sheet for the hollowblock was quite generic, covered several different sling and rope products and contained very little info specific to the product. Long story short, we immediately stopped viewing the hollowblock as anything other than a "third hand" and did a major culling of the equipment cache. We also stopped sales of the hollowblock and sourced an alternative product that could actually function as a multipurpose device: third hand, friction hitch for ascent, etc.

To add to your "two important details" above: a third important detail is the wear state. From the current care sheet:

Before EVERY use of the product, visually inspect the entire surface area of the product:

If any single yarn appears to be partially or fully cut, DO NOT use the product.

If the stitching under the plastic protective cover shows any signs of wear DO NOT use the product.

If the protective plastic cover is not present, do not use the product.

Significant or “fuzzy” looking yarns indicates damage to the fibers and therefore the strength of the product has been REDUCED from the value indicated on the label.

The amount of strength loss is extremely difficult to quantify without destructive testing and therefore the product should not be used after there is evidence of “fuzzing” on all of the yarns.


My overall takeaway: I would not carry and/or use a hollowblock for any purpose, except in a pinch (i.e. borrowed gear in an emergency). All of my gear needs to be easily inspect-able and the hollowblock fails completely on that front. Perhaps the biggest problem is that the hollowblock appears to be PPE, but is not - it's more like an accessory product.

After the bodyweight hollowblock failures in Winter 2011, testing was done, which revealed that making a good strength assessment of used hollowblocks via visual inspection was impossible. For this reason we switched to a sewn kernmantle cordage product, which are easily inspected for wear due to the core + sheath construction. If anyone is interested, I can dig up the test data and pix of the slings that were broken in testing.

===

-nm

October 2011 hollowblock web page (with link to product care/info sheet)

Sterling Rope :: Canyoneering Rope » Hollow Block

Shop Sterling Ropes, maker of the highest quality Canyon Rope and most technically advanced Canyoneering Rope for over fifteen years. Durable, light, and better handling means extraordinary performance in all conditions. The Hollow Block is a unique sewn prusik or climb heist made from our RIT...
web.archive.org web.archive.org
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting this.
Any information on the Beal Jammy? I use one for my backup tether.
 
This is interesting. I’ve been using the beal jammy on my tether and now will have to find the manual for that. I was also practicing repelling this afternoon and experimenting with the autoblock above and below my figure 8. I guess it needs to stay below.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Tr33_n1nj@ said:
I went to practice and in getting up all my rappelling stuff realized my hollowblock was missing . Long story short I went out in the yard and found it underneath the last tree I had climbed, a week prior, and I had cut the grass so it definitely got run over by the mower. I picked it up and other than minor fuzzing, there is no noticeable damage. I was planning to continue to use it (as an autoblock rappelling with figure 8)...until I read this above post. Think I’ll get a replacement.
Click to expand...

If it's completely undamaged, then probably still good for a "third hand" / autoblock-below-device application, at least in the short term. Over the long haul, yeah, I'd replace it with a sewn (or tied) kernmantle cord sling that can be easily inspected. For rappelling short distances at low speed, nylon accessory cord (the rated stuff) works fine for an autoblock sling.
 
bj139 said:
Thanks for posting this.
Any information on the Beal Jammy? I use one for my backup tether.
Click to expand...

I haven't seen or used the Jammy so I Googled it up...it's a sewn kernmantle cord, so easily inspected compared to the hollowblock. It's also certified PPE so can be used as a primary attachment. Two points in its favor, at least on paper (I mean, screen).

BTW what is a backup tether ?
 
aclawrence said:
This is interesting. I’ve been using the beal jammy on my tether and now will have to find the manual for that. I was also practicing repelling this afternoon and experimenting with the autoblock above and below my figure 8. I guess it needs to stay below.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Rappel backup: above or below? The general consensus in the climbing / canyoneering world is that below is the way to go.

Problems with the autoblock-above-rappel-device configuration:

- In an out-of-control rappel situation, the user is likely to death-grip the autoblock, which doesn't help much to slow the descent. With the hitch below the device, a death-grip on the hitch might prevent it from engaging, but this grip can provide significant braking force (via the rappel device) that could prevent a ground-fall.

- If the autoblock gets used during descent (e.g. to stop momentarily), it can be difficult to release b/c it supports the user's full bodyweight when loaded. This is more likely to happen if the rope or sling is wet, dirty, fuzzy, etc and/or the load is especially great (heavy user, sudden stop, etc.). Anyone choosing to use this configuration must know how to temporarily transfer their load to another system, in order to release the stuck sling. Cutting the sling is a last-resort maneuver that carries major additional risk. Note: I'm coming at this from a worst-case perspective: hanging in free space, which may not happen so often in trees / hunting situations ? I have very little tree experience.

- Both hands are required to descend, which can be inconvenient and/or problematic

Problems with the autoblock-below-rappel-device configuration:

- If improperly set up, the hitch can jam against the bottom of the rappel device, which can prevent it from grabbing the rope. It is essential to prevent this from happening: this is typically accomplished by extending the rappel device with carabiners or slings so as to make it impossible for the autoblock to contact the rappel device, even if the user is hanging upside down in the harness.

- As mentioned in the "above" configuration, death gripping the hitch can prevent it from engaging, but this grip can provide significant braking force (via the rappel device) that could prevent a ground-fall.

Problems with both configurations:

- The autoblock fails to grab the rope. Make sure to do a solid grab-test before starting your rappel, to make sure your hitch is grabbing the rope. If it doesn't grab, adjust as necessary until it does.

- The user is relying on the backup system to cover a lack of skill and/or knowledge. Many accidents have happened because of this, usually from failure to rig the rappel device with enough friction for the descent. Typical of these accidents: a person begins rappelling, starts to lose control, death-grips the autoblock and prevents it from engaging, rides fast to the ground and hits hard. A typical example is found HERE

Best advice on this issue: use a rappel device that offers easily adjustable friction and lockoff options, and learn how to use it well. Backup systems might be a good idea in certain situations, but they won't necessarily work when needed. Best strategy is to develop the ability to have solid control over the descent, with the backup there in case s*** happens (and even then, there's no guarantee it will work).

Good reads on above vs. below configurations:


 
Last edited:
lecerfagile said:
I haven't seen or used the Jammy so I Googled it up...it's a sewn kernmantle cord, so easily inspected compared to the hollowblock. It's also certified PPE so can be used as a primary attachment. Two points in its favor, at least on paper (I mean, screen).

BTW what is a backup tether ?
Click to expand...
Saddle hunters use a tether to attach to the tree. I climb SRT but I carry a backup tether with a Prusik loop for adjustment just so I can advance my rope up the tree further, if needed. I typically attach it in addition to the SRT line since I have it with me.

 
lecerfagile said:
Rappel backup: above or below? The general consensus in the climbing / canyoneering world is that below is the way to go.

Problems with the autoblock-above-rappel-device configuration:

- In an out-of-control rappel situation, the user is likely to death-grip the autoblock, which doesn't help much to slow the descent. With the hitch below the device, a death-grip on the hitch might prevent it from engaging, but this grip can provide significant braking force (via the rappel device) that could prevent a ground-fall.

- If the autoblock gets used during descent (e.g. to stop momentarily), it can be difficult to release b/c it supports the user's full bodyweight when loaded. This is more likely to happen if the rope or sling is wet, dirty, fuzzy, etc and/or the load is especially great (heavy user, sudden stop, etc.). Anyone choosing to use this configuration must know how to temporarily transfer their load to another system, in order to release the stuck sling. Cutting the sling is a last-resort maneuver that carries major additional risk. Note: I'm coming at this from a worst-case perspective: hanging in free space, which may not happen so often in trees / hunting situations ? I have very little tree experience.

- Both hands are required to descend, which can be inconvenient and/or problematic

Problems with the autoblock-below-rappel-device configuration:

- If improperly set up, the hitch can jam against the bottom of the rappel device, which can prevent it from grabbing the rope. It is essential to prevent this from happening: this is typically accomplished by extending the rappel device with carabiners or slings so as to make it impossible for the autoblock to contact the rappel device, even if the user is hanging upside down in the harness.

- As mentioned in the "above" configuration, death gripping the hitch can prevent it from engaging, but this grip can provide significant braking force (via the rappel device) that could prevent a ground-fall.

Problem with both configurations:

- The autoblock fails to grab the rope. Make sure to do a vigorous grab-test before starting your rappel, to make sure your hitch is grabbing. If it doesn't grab, adjust as necessary until it does. Too-grabby is much better than no-grabby.

- The user is relying on the backup system to cover a lack of skill and/or knowledge. Many accidents have happened because of this, usually from failure to rig the rappel device with enough friction for the descent. Typical of these accidents: a person begins rappelling, starts to lose control, death-grips the autoblock and prevents it from engaging, rides fast to the ground and hits hard. A typical example is found HERE

Best advice on this issue: use a rappel device that offers easily adjustable friction and lockoff options, and learn how to use it well. Backup systems might be a good idea in certain situations, but they won't necessarily work when needed. Best strategy is to develop the ability to have solid control over the descent, with the backup there in case s*** happens (and even then, there's no guarantee it will work).

Good reads on above vs. below configurations:


Click to expand...
I measured the force required on the tag end of the line to hold me while hanging from a rope with an ATC and it was between 5 and 10 lbs. Almost anything would work as an autoblock if it only has to hold 10 lbs. I have used paracord and it worked fine. That is why you can rappel with one hand on the loose end of the rope since 10 lbs can be handled easily with one hand.
 
Squirrels said:
Just some experience, I found that the Hollowblock did not play with Sterling Oplux at all when tied in French Prusik (aka autoblock) manner. I may be wrong and correct me if I am, but autoblock refers to how that piece is used below your ATC and not necessarily what hitch is used. Meaning, a person could use a prusik or french prusik hitch for their autoblock? If that is the case in my testing the Hollowblock did not grab the Oplux at all using a french prusik no matter how many or few wraps I used. I did not test a standard prusik hitch as I wasn't sure you should use that hitch as an autoblock. I have ordered a Beal Jammy and will test it out.
Click to expand...
I had same results playing in basement, could not get it work with Oplux, but I'm still learning. I just stuffed them away in case I try a bigger rope at some point.
 
lecerfagile said:
Rappel backup: above or below? The general consensus in the climbing / canyoneering world is that below is the way to go.

Problems with the autoblock-above-rappel-device configuration:

- In an out-of-control rappel situation, the user is likely to death-grip the autoblock, which doesn't help much to slow the descent. With the hitch below the device, a death-grip on the hitch might prevent it from engaging, but this grip can provide significant braking force (via the rappel device) that could prevent a ground-fall.

- If the autoblock gets used during descent (e.g. to stop momentarily), it can be difficult to release b/c it supports the user's full bodyweight when loaded. This is more likely to happen if the rope or sling is wet, dirty, fuzzy, etc and/or the load is especially great (heavy user, sudden stop, etc.). Anyone choosing to use this configuration must know how to temporarily transfer their load to another system, in order to release the stuck sling. Cutting the sling is a last-resort maneuver that carries major additional risk. Note: I'm coming at this from a worst-case perspective: hanging in free space, which may not happen so often in trees / hunting situations ? I have very little tree experience.

- Both hands are required to descend, which can be inconvenient and/or problematic

Problems with the autoblock-below-rappel-device configuration:

- If improperly set up, the hitch can jam against the bottom of the rappel device, which can prevent it from grabbing the rope. It is essential to prevent this from happening: this is typically accomplished by extending the rappel device with carabiners or slings so as to make it impossible for the autoblock to contact the rappel device, even if the user is hanging upside down in the harness.

- As mentioned in the "above" configuration, death gripping the hitch can prevent it from engaging, but this grip can provide significant braking force (via the rappel device) that could prevent a ground-fall.

Problem with both configurations:

- The autoblock fails to grab the rope. Make sure to do a vigorous grab-test before starting your rappel, to make sure your hitch is grabbing. If it doesn't grab, adjust as necessary until it does. Too-grabby is much better than no-grabby.

- The user is relying on the backup system to cover a lack of skill and/or knowledge. Many accidents have happened because of this, usually from failure to rig the rappel device with enough friction for the descent. Typical of these accidents: a person begins rappelling, starts to lose control, death-grips the autoblock and prevents it from engaging, rides fast to the ground and hits hard. A typical example is found HERE

Best advice on this issue: use a rappel device that offers easily adjustable friction and lockoff options, and learn how to use it well. Backup systems might be a good idea in certain situations, but they won't necessarily work when needed. Best strategy is to develop the ability to have solid control over the descent, with the backup there in case s*** happens (and even then, there's no guarantee it will work).

Good reads on above vs. below configurations:


Click to expand...

Wow thanks. You really provided a great response there. I was preferring it above my figure 8 but that death grip scenario makes perfect sense. Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
weekender21 said:
I haven’t tried the OpLux but that doesn’t surprise me. That stuff is pretty thin.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have another recent post where I’m setting up to start one stick / rappelling with JX3... I went with the 8mm Resc Tech and I’m hoping I can figure out a good autoblock knot to use with the TRC. Guess lll start three feet off the ground.
 
lecerfagile said:
Rappel backup: above or below? The general consensus in the climbing / canyoneering world is that below is the way to go.

Problems with the autoblock-above-rappel-device configuration:

- In an out-of-control rappel situation, the user is likely to death-grip the autoblock, which doesn't help much to slow the descent. With the hitch below the device, a death-grip on the hitch might prevent it from engaging, but this grip can provide significant braking force (via the rappel device) that could prevent a ground-fall.

- If the autoblock gets used during descent (e.g. to stop momentarily), it can be difficult to release b/c it supports the user's full bodyweight when loaded. This is more likely to happen if the rope or sling is wet, dirty, fuzzy, etc and/or the load is especially great (heavy user, sudden stop, etc.). Anyone choosing to use this configuration must know how to temporarily transfer their load to another system, in order to release the stuck sling. Cutting the sling is a last-resort maneuver that carries major additional risk. Note: I'm coming at this from a worst-case perspective: hanging in free space, which may not happen so often in trees / hunting situations ? I have very little tree experience.

- Both hands are required to descend, which can be inconvenient and/or problematic

Problems with the autoblock-below-rappel-device configuration:

- If improperly set up, the hitch can jam against the bottom of the rappel device, which can prevent it from grabbing the rope. It is essential to prevent this from happening: this is typically accomplished by extending the rappel device with carabiners or slings so as to make it impossible for the autoblock to contact the rappel device, even if the user is hanging upside down in the harness.

- As mentioned in the "above" configuration, death gripping the hitch can prevent it from engaging, but this grip can provide significant braking force (via the rappel device) that could prevent a ground-fall.

Problems with both configurations:

- The autoblock fails to grab the rope. Make sure to do a solid grab-test before starting your rappel, to make sure your hitch is grabbing the rope. If it doesn't grab, adjust as necessary until it does.

- The user is relying on the backup system to cover a lack of skill and/or knowledge. Many accidents have happened because of this, usually from failure to rig the rappel device with enough friction for the descent. Typical of these accidents: a person begins rappelling, starts to lose control, death-grips the autoblock and prevents it from engaging, rides fast to the ground and hits hard. A typical example is found HERE

Best advice on this issue: use a rappel device that offers easily adjustable friction and lockoff options, and learn how to use it well. Backup systems might be a good idea in certain situations, but they won't necessarily work when needed. Best strategy is to develop the ability to have solid control over the descent, with the backup there in case s*** happens (and even then, there's no guarantee it will work).

Good reads on above vs. below configurations:


Click to expand...


Its nice to have someone with your background on the site. We have quite a few arborists, but fewer members with your specific skill set. Thanks for the input! If you ever want to learn how to use your experience to fill your freezer with local, organic meat to feed you and those close to you, don't hesitate to reach out. We would be happy to help you learn to do that.
 
bj139 said:
Saddle hunters use a tether to attach to the tree. I climb SRT but I carry a backup tether with a Prusik loop for adjustment just so I can advance my rope up the tree further, if needed. I typically attach it in addition to the SRT line since I have it with me.
Click to expand...


@bj139

Thanks for that clear picture. Do you typically rappel with an ATC, or perhaps that Grigri I see in the photo? What's the main reason hunters use an autoblock? Convenience (e.g. stopping on rappel), safety (accidentally letting go of the brake line, ...) ?

Pardon all the questions - I'm curious.
 
BackSpasm said:
Its nice to have someone with your background on the site. We have quite a few arborists, but fewer members with your specific skill set. Thanks for the input! If you ever want to learn how to use your experience to fill your freezer with local, organic meat to feed you and those close to you, don't hesitate to reach out. We would be happy to help you learn to do that.
Click to expand...

Thanks. On my part, I always enjoy learning about rope techniques from other user groups: cross-pollination can produce good technical tips.

And I appreciate the offer re: hunting skills. Only...we got a bit of a tree problem around here...lol...maybe should have spent less time in the caves when I lived in Chattanooga... :)
 
weekender21 said:
You really should read the user manual and understand what it says. With that, you are using it for one of its primary purposes.

"Rappel safety back up friction hitch that is placed BELOW the rappel device on single or doubled strands of life-safety rope when repelling or performing rescue operations."

If you're using it below an ATC, it's not the sole or primary connection point. That gets a little grey once you go hands free although it's still not the primary connection point, your ATC is. You should always keep one hand (break hand) on the tag end of your rope. However, you can tie a quick loop in the running end (alpine butterfly as an example) and connect that loop to your harness via a locking carabiner to easily solve that problem. I'd also recommend (just my opinion) you familiarize yourself AT GROUND LEVEL with how fast your rope goes through the ATC. All ATC's will be different but it's something I'd like to be aware of in case my autoblock broke or wasn't tied properly to begin with.

Great conversation, education will prevent accidents. Bottom line: read manufacture recommendations and be familiar with your equipment.
Click to expand...
bhett28 said:
Hey guys,

I like the thouroughness and safety discussed here. Quick follow up question regarding the autoblock topic. So I'm climbing up using stepps and tethering in. Then I have a second, static rope Im planning to use for the rappel down. I was struggling when practicing with the autoblock earlier this week, but I'm guessing I didn't have the autoblock tied correctly.

Essentially, I'm using the static rope with an ATC XP and utilizing the Sterling autoblock below it. Now that this thread has enlightened me on the correct way to tie the autoblock knot, I have two questions.

1) It seems to be appropriate to tie the autoblock to the static rope and hook it to an appropriate carabinier attached to a leg strap on my kestrel flex?
2) Ideally, I'd like to be able to stop, untie, and stow the steps during my rappel. With practice I hopefully will be able to do that one handed. Although the discussion in this thread seems to indicate that might not be my safest play to rely on the autoblock for that if I'm understanding correctly? Can one of you guys clarify if this qualifies as unsafe.

Appreciate the insight.
Click to expand...
Are you using the 6.8mm hollowblock or the 6 mm sterling cord that is called an autoblock? I have 8 mm oplux tether and rappel rope, and I own both the 6.8 and the 6. The 6 isn't "hollow", and it's the one I use as an autoblock when rappelling as a backup on my tether (I use separate ropes for rappel and tether). I have not much use for the 6.8 hollowblock, except as maybe a gear hanger prusik. It doesn't grab the 8mm Oplux worth a crap for me. Definitely not well enough I'd trust my life with it. The 6mm sterling autoblock works excellent, for me, to hold me in place while I free my hands up to remove a stick or whatever. I use a grivel mono master.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top