Correct but most of us have first hand knowledge that a 400 grain arrow is not blowing through both shoulders. I had a 435 grain arrow not even make it through one shoulder. He was testing arrows that are were 600 and up which is why most people say 550 to 600 plus will do the job with high FOC. He stopped testing because he was smart enough to know and arrow set up of 600 grains and up high FOC with a compound and you will have zero issue for most animals...….All animals USA.My only issue is most of his testing was done with recurves which need all the help they can get penetration wise. In his kifarucast episode he said they tried testing with an older darton compound and it blew through everything, hard to measure which penetrates best when the arrows don't stop. So when thinking about his studies you should realize your compound has way more energy then the stick bows they were testing with.
I plan on building an arrow that can go through the tree behind the deer. I dont think it costs much if any more to build an arrow with these intentions.
What do you mean by "bow work harder"?Component wise, no. The cost is marginal.
In terms of getting your bow to tune and shoot such arrows? It will not be a trivial task.
IME, having played with arrows 400-650 grains in weight (I know, not 'ashby weight') the higher the weight the harder they get to tune. Higher FOC is achieved at the expense of dynamic spine, which in turn makes your bow work harder to fire them straight. Also you no longer have relatively flat shooting arrow at distances under 30.
That being said my default arrows are weighing about 460grains without any added weight. I've blew through opposite side shoulder blades twice (not the knuckle, mind you) and don't seem to have issues with penetration (except when I make really awful shots).
What do you mean "bow work harder"?
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If your building properly you should not be shooting weak spined arrows. Plus heavier arrows are more forgiving not less forgiving. The bows that I have worked on tuned easier with heavier arrows then lighter arrows. Your bow is quieter and just as efficient. They make 150 spine arrows so their is no way that you should be shooting a weak arrow.Just a generality. Being specific: weaker spines prefer lower draw weights, vice versa for stiffer. Bow timing becomes more critical, as does being able to set the appropriate draw weight for the arrow in question. Also re-adjusting site for a now pronounced arc for arrow flight. Also understanding that you may be compromising some of the forgiving 'features' of your bow for a heavier arrow, which requires more effort on behalf of the archer to have better form and execute better shots.
If your building properly you should not be shooting weak spined arrows. Plus heavier arrows are more forgiving not less forgiving. The bows that I have worked on tuned easier with heavier arrows then lighter arrows. Your bow is quieter and just ass efficient. They make 150 spine arrows so their is no way that you should be shooting a weak arrow. Stiff arrows are more forgiving and more efficient.
If you are going heavy you have to adjust your arrow spine. That all depends on how much weight you want to add, poundage, draw length and arrow length. You can not take you regular 400 grain and throw 200 grains on it and think your going to be good to go.
Have you tried tapered carbon shafts? They improve FOC and they correct fast coming out of the bow. I love my Grizzlystik shafts.Component wise, no. The cost is marginal.
In terms of getting your bow to tune and shoot such arrows? It will not be a trivial task.
IME, having played with arrows 400-650 grains in weight (I know, not 'ashby weight') the higher the weight the harder they get to tune. Higher FOC is achieved at the expense of dynamic spine, which in turn makes your bow work harder to fire them straight. Also you no longer have relatively flat shooting arrow at distances under 30.
That being said my default arrows are weighing about 460grains without any added weight. I've blew through opposite side shoulder blades twice (not the knuckle, mind you) and don't seem to have issues with penetration (except when I make really awful shots).
I like the idea of tapered shafts, my only concern when I was starting was if I was going to go all in full weight/FOC maximization and start with full length shafts and get into cutting the shafts in order to tune. Then you run into cutting from one end vs the other and having to do that on all of them...then I realized I was making a mountain out of a mole hill and still just went with regular shafts and decided to dumb it down a bit. reached out to ranch fairy and be brought me back to earth. I have a tendency to overthink myself into stupidity.Have you tried tapered carbon shafts? They improve FOC and they correct fast coming out of the bow. I love my Grizzlystik shafts.
I just adjusted tip weight.I like the idea of tapered shafts, my only concern when I was starting was if I was going to go all in full weight/FOC maximization and start with full length shafts and get into cutting the shafts in order to tune. Then you run into cutting from one end vs the other and having to do that on all of them...then I realized I was making a mountain out of a mole hill and still just went with regular shafts and decided to dumb it down a bit. reached out to ranch fairy and be brought me back to earth. I have a tendency to overthink myself into stupidity.