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Yay trad section!

swampsnyper said:
I’ve come across the same problem with setting my nick height once before. It was a form issue.
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Remember what it was specifically? I feel like I'm getting a good release. I thought it might be a bottom finger issue (I shoot split finger) but I took the bottom finger completely off the string and shot with two fingers and I still get the same nock high.
 
GCTerpfan said:
Yep, that's a good point by @Allegheny Tom. I've been shooting with a 12'oclock cock feather for so long I didn't even think about that helping. My dad started doing it 20 years ago (probably when he shot a black widow and watched the video). It would probably help with your fletching hitting your hand.

Edit: Something really crazy to me is that Tom Clum shoots with a 3 o'clock cock feather.
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Cock feather position shouldn’t have an affect on clearance if you bow is tuned to your form. I’ve shot plastic vanes with no issues. When something isn’t making sense with my tuning, it’s almost always my form. And that happens a lot! Lol
Every time I think I know what I’m doing, something crazy happens and makes me scratch my head! Lol
 
Form and execution can have a huge effect on everything traditional! Anytime something of mine is off I can sure tell my accuracy is majorly affected!!!
 
GCTerpfan said:
Remember what it was specifically? I feel like I'm getting a good release. I thought it might be a bottom finger issue (I shoot split finger) but I took the bottom finger completely off the string and shot with two fingers and I still get the same nock high.
Click to expand...

I still don’t know what it was. I was probably just tire from shooting. Put the bow up and came back another day. Started off with some blind bail shooting then went back to tuning and I was able to tune the nock point, which was lower than 1/2 in. I wasn’t expecting that. Never had one tune that low. And that was shooting 3 under. It has something to do with a bow that’s tillered for 3 under and small dia arrows.
A new arrow rest can change everything. Also I changed to a new tab. It’s a lot slicker and it also changed my tuning. The slicker the rest and tab, the faster the arrow will go and that changes tuning. But it’s small changes and feathers will hide most of it. I always tune with a bare shaft and keep a bare shaft in my arrow box to check my set up periodically. And I mark all of my arrows with a sharpie, while nocked in the string, at the back of the shelf, so I can alway check brace height instantly at any time.
 
swampsnyper said:
I still don’t know what it was. I was probably just tire from shooting. Put the bow up and came back another day. Started off with some blind bail shooting then went back to tuning and I was able to tune the nock point, which was lower than 1/2 in. I wasn’t expecting that. Never had one tune that low. And that was shooting 3 under. It has something to do with a bow that’s tillered for 3 under and small dia arrows.
A new arrow rest can change everything. Also I changed to a new tab. It’s a lot slicker and it also changed my tuning. The slicker the rest and tab, the faster the arrow will go and that changes tuning. But it’s small changes and feathers will hide most of it. I always tune with a bare shaft and keep a bare shaft in my arrow box to check my set up periodically. And I mark all of my arrows with a sharpie, while nocked in the string, at the back of the shelf, so I can alway check brace height instantly at any time.
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Thanks, that's basically what I did. I started getting frustrated so I put the bare shaft down took a fletched shaft and went out and kicked a ball around the yard and watched my fletched arrows fly perfectly and hit what I was aiming at which gave me back some confidence. I'm planning on digging back into the tuning this weekend. I like the idea of marking arrows to check brace height. I have never thought of that.
 
I'm shooting a Caribow Lynx longbow drawing 50@28. Great shooting bow. As for arrows, I have been shooting Beman Whiteouts. 500 spine cut to 31 1/4 with 145 grain field points. I have a new dozen Goldtip Traditional 500 spined arrows on the way.
 
Vtbow said:
interesting. Same spine shaft and everything?
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Exact everything. And yesterday, I was getting a slight, tail left kick (it was hardly even noticeable) and I scrutinized my feather position a little closer. I noticed my cock feather was ever so slightly off of 12 o'clock. I rotated the nock a smidge and it shot better.
Now, I can't say for sure if rotating the nock is helping me because of feather clearance, or because the spine is now in a different orientation.
Unlike aluminum shafts, these carbon shafts DO have a stiff side. So 2 things happen when a nock is rotated...spine changes and clearance changes.
 
My Toelke SuperD (66" 41#@27") should be here in a couple weeks. And my Northern Mist American (67" 44#@27") should be here a few weeks after that. I'm going to be using around 490gr arrows with them (300gr total up front). ~26.6% FOC. Using a Tactisaddle and DIY OPLUX tether and lineman's belt with Kong duck. I hope to post my kills this year!!!

Sent from my LIO-AL00 using Tapatalk
 
I shoot three under and can deal with a little nock high with a bare shaft. Once its fletched it is gone. Mind you just a little.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
Exact everything. And yesterday, I was getting a slight, tail left kick (it was hardly even noticeable) and I scrutinized my feather position a little closer. I noticed my cock feather was ever so slightly off of 12 o'clock. I rotated the nock a smidge and it shot better.
Now, I can't say for sure if rotating the nock is helping me because of feather clearance, or because the spine is now in a different orientation.
Unlike aluminum shafts, these carbon shafts DO have a stiff side. So 2 things happen when a nock is rotated...spine changes and clearance changes.
Click to expand...

I’m thinking rotating is changing the flight because of the spine orientation.
 
swampsnyper said:
I’m thinking rotating is changing the flight because of the spine orientation.
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That may very well be the case. After reading @GCTerpfan post #20 mentioning Tom Clum, I thought I'd go out and shoot a few arrows with the cock at 3 o'clock.

I swear it shot even better.
I will say that I have not tried shooting thru paper with the cock at 12 or 3. I've only shot paper with the cock at 9. And with it at 9, I just can't get bullet holes until I shoot out to about 10 yards. I get a tear of about 1.25" at 5 to 9 yards. I really would like my arrows to correct faster...mostly because I want to be able to shoot thru smaller shooting windows in brush. Sometimes we need to thread the needle with our shots.
So, is this a spine issue, or a clearance issue, or a combination of the two?
 
Allegheny Tom said:
That may very well be the case. After reading @GCTerpfan post #20 mentioning Tom Clum, I thought I'd go out and shoot a few arrows with the cock at 3 o'clock.

I swear it shot even better.
I will say that I have not tried shooting thru paper with the cock at 12 or 3. I've only shot paper with the cock at 9. And with it at 9, I just can't get bullet holes until I shoot out to about 10 yards. I get a tear of about 1.25" at 5 to 9 yards. I really would like my arrows to correct faster...mostly because I want to be able to shoot thru smaller shooting windows in brush. Sometimes we need to thread the needle with our shots.
So, is this a spine issue, or a clearance issue, or a combination of the two?
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It sounds like a spine issue. Do you have any heavier/lighter field points to play with?
 
Charles Gray said:
It sounds like a spine issue. Do you have any heavier/lighter field points to play with?
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I have shot a wide range of point weights. And I have also played with building out my strike plate. Its really surprising how consistently I get an inch and a quarter paper tear at 5 to 8 yards. It doesn't matter if I shoot 100 grain field point or 200 grain and everything in between. I've also messed with different insert weights.1.25" tear is the standard for close range paper shots. At 10 yards, it corrects and shoots bullet holes.
 
I never shoot through paper. I know my form isn’t that consistent. I just shoot bareshaft arrows until it looks like it’s flying straight. If a bareshaft looks to be flying straight, with the help of feathers, I know it’s pretty darn good. And that’s good enough for my shooting ability. I wish my form was dead solid.
 
swampsnyper said:
I never shoot through paper. I know my form isn’t that consistent. I just shoot bareshaft arrows until it looks like it’s flying straight. If a bareshaft looks to be flying straight, with the help of feathers, I know it’s pretty darn good. And that’s good enough for my shooting ability. I wish my form was dead solid.
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I'm with you 100%. If I'm shooting darts at a paper plate at 25yrds, I'm happy.
 
swampsnyper said:
I never shoot through paper. I know my form isn’t that consistent. I just shoot bareshaft arrows until it looks like it’s flying straight. If a bareshaft looks to be flying straight, with the help of feathers, I know it’s pretty darn good. And that’s good enough for my shooting ability. I wish my form was dead solid.
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Im not a die hard paper shooter, but I do think its a good starting point. Get the tears as good as you can (which I did get them less than an inch), and at that point, a fletched shaft should fly perfect, right? That's what I thought, but the fletched shafts flew worse...until I rotated the nock.
Im not saying rotating the nock is the cure for everyone's flight issues, but it has been a big help for me.
Its one of the nice things about push in nocks. Just turn it at will and if it doesn't improve, then turn it back.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
Im not a die hard paper shooter, but I do think its a good starting point. Get the tears as good as you can (which I did get them less than an inch), and at that point, a fletched shaft should fly perfect, right? That's what I thought, but the fletched shafts flew worse...until I rotated the nock.
Im not saying rotating the nock is the cure for everyone's flight issues, but it has been a big help for me.
Its one of the nice things about push in nocks. Just turn it at will and if it doesn't improve, then turn it back.
Click to expand...
Yeah, unfortunately, I shoot cedars and xx75....no rotating nock. But I do make sure i get the grain orientation correct on my woodies we builing them...
 
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I've also adjusted my brace height to get better arrow flight. Most of the time the higher brace height delivered better flight especially with shafts that were marginally stiff to begin with. I've learned that the Bowyers suggested brace height is just that. Some I had to go lower(rarely) most on the upper end or higher.Been doing this for at least 40 years and only had one bow that I could not get to tune no matter the arrow or point combination. I swear I was so frustrated I just wanted to wrap it around a tree. That was about 20 years ago but it seems like yesterday LOL
 
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