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Yay trad section!

Hey Brian, Yeah trad. section. I like it!
As a matter of fact I just acquired a dozen F.M.J. shafts in camo. "kind of like the camo of the xx75's from years ago."
I've been shooting the regular F.M.J. shafts for the last 10/15 years but the black diamond plate pattern always looked ugly to me, so these will look cool when I get them fletched up.
 
I've got nothing new in the wings other than increasing my FOC weight. I'm going to buy my daughter a new Samick Sage sometime this year. She doesn't hunt but she's always had to shoot garage sale bows so it's time she gets a new one.
 
This is great! I love it.
I have several new things this year...changed my limbs and fast flight string, new arrow shafts, fletch, broadheads, quiver on the way.
I can give better details later. Its been a long day...teaching a couple kids to fish. Nobody got a hook in them.
 
I've actually got two new bows I am playing with this year, both built by my father. He finished up the first bow a couple weeks ago and just got the second bow done this past weekend. I spent the weekend camping and shooting them both.

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Both bows are 62"long, the bow on the right was the first one he finished. It's 52# @ 29". The bow on the left I just got this weekend and is quickly becoming my favorite, it's 47# @ 29". Both have carbon in the limbs. Not only are these bows gorgeous but they shoot great, the 52# shoots a a 450 g arrow at 195fps and the 47# shoots the same arrow at 190fps.

bow1.jpgbow2.jpgbow3.jpgbow4.jpgbow5.jpgbow6.jpgbow7.jpg
 
I am trying to switch over to trad hunting from a compound, but it hasn't been a clean break. I bought a Bear Montana longbow and I played with arrow/insert/broadhead weights. I've got all that nailed down; I just have to finish the arrows. My problem is consistency. I tried instinctual, split vision and gap and I don't feel warm and fuzzy about any of them. It may just be my form that's causing it. Does anyone else look "through" the string at the target? Or is this something that I am holding onto from shooting a compound all my life?
 
As a matter of fact, just got 2 doz Easton axis traditional 500 shafts in. Brass inserts, 3 aluminum 1916 shafts to make footers, and some gateway feathers. I’ve been using true flight feathers but I find them too soft and they get messed up easily. Gateway feathers are a bit stiffer, but may not solve the problem.


3d2328166bbf7c1ee7cbdaabc5262357.jpg
 
I am trying to switch over to trad hunting from a compound, but it hasn't been a clean break. I bought a Bear Montana longbow and I played with arrow/insert/broadhead weights. I've got all that nailed down; I just have to finish the arrows. My problem is consistency. I tried instinctual, split vision and gap and I don't feel warm and fuzzy about any of them. It may just be my form that's causing it. Does anyone else look "through" the string at the target? Or is this something that I am holding onto from shooting a compound all my life?

Got to break those compound habits and become the arrow! Lol
 
As a matter of fact, just got 2 doz Easton axis traditional 500 shafts in. Brass inserts, 3 aluminum 1916 shafts to make footers, and some gateway feathers. I’ve been using true flight feathers but I find them too soft and they get messed up easily. Gateway feathers are a bit stiffer, but may not solve the problem.


3d2328166bbf7c1ee7cbdaabc5262357.jpg
Let me know how the gateway feethers work for you. I've had serious issues with durability in the past with the feathers ripping off the quills of some after like 100 shots. They are stiffer fir sure and I wonder if that makes them more brittle. The arrows I have fletched with truflights are at least 5 years old and seem to be holding up soooo pop much better.
 
Well guys, Ive come pretty much full circle. I had a setup that was workig great for me, but my shoulder decided it didnt like it anymore. I sold all my custom "fancy" bows and ended up with just one actual shooter(I have a few other old projects). I now have a Timberhawk Talon hunter and it is a fantastic bow. I"ve honestly been having a bit of a rough time getting used to it and it tuned. I love the feel of the grip as it is very similar to what my asbell bighorn was. BUT I cant seem to keep the fletching from hitting my hand and cutting it pretty bad sometimes. I"ve tried adjusting nock point to where it wasnt hitting, but then the arrows are porpoising bad... I'm having a really hard time I think mostly because the shelf has such a dramatic curve to it, and all my others have always been perfectly flat. Put on top of it I"m going from a 70# bow to a 48# bow(@28, and I draw 30.25 so a little over 50#) and my mind just cant catch on, its like learning all over again-- and a "little" frustrating.
 
Well guys, Ive come pretty much full circle. I had a setup that was workig great for me, but my shoulder decided it didnt like it anymore. I sold all my custom "fancy" bows and ended up with just one actual shooter(I have a few other old projects). I now have a Timberhawk Talon hunter and it is a fantastic bow. I"ve honestly been having a bit of a rough time getting used to it and it tuned. I love the feel of the grip as it is very similar to what my asbell bighorn was. BUT I cant seem to keep the fletching from hitting my hand and cutting it pretty bad sometimes. I"ve tried adjusting nock point to where it wasnt hitting, but then the arrows are porpoising bad... I'm having a really hard time I think mostly because the shelf has such a dramatic curve to it, and all my others have always been perfectly flat. Put on top of it I"m going from a 70# bow to a 48# bow(@28, and I draw 30.25 so a little over 50#) and my mind just cant catch on, its like learning all over again-- and a "little" frustrating.

I'm struggling with tuning myself at the moment. I am getting a constant nock high. I have adjusted my nocking point from 7/8 high to even and it doesn't change. I thought I had developed something in my release that was causing it but, someone recently told me they had a similar issue and increasing brace height got rid of it. I plan on trying it this weekend. The effects that adjusting brace height can have is something I tend to forget about when tuning. Might be worth a try in your case also.
 
I'm struggling with tuning myself at the moment. I am getting a constant nock high. I have adjusted my nocking point from 7/8 high to even and it doesn't change. I thought I had developed something in my release that was causing it but, someone recently told me they had a similar issue and increasing brace height got rid of it. I plan on trying it this weekend. The effects that adjusting brace height can have is something I tend to forget about when tuning. Might be worth a try in your case also.
Thanks! Yeah, I've been anywhere from 7 1/2 to 8 3/4 and it seems to like 8 1/4ish the best. I ThinkI have a grip problem and am used to shooting with a higher wrist than what this bow is allowing, which isnt great sincce its my "natural" hand position. there are certain things in form I feel like its better to just find a bow that works with it, vs. changing form...especialyl when its a natural feeling. As hard as I train myself I always seem to settle back in that position when any pressure and game is in the picture...
 
I was having problems tuning my new Ashby style arrows after I fletched them. Bare shaft, paper shooting was pretty good but as soon as I put the A&A style feathers on, the flight got erratic.
Then a buddy told me to watch one of the Blackwidow videos which advocated shooting the cock feather at 12 o'clock. That seemed crazy to me but I figured "what the hell" I will try it. The difference was amazing. I doubt that I will ever shoot a 9 o'clock (right handed shooter) again. Try it.
 
I was having problems tuning my new Ashby style arrows after I fletched them. Bare shaft, paper shooting was pretty good but as soon as I put the A&A style feathers on, the flight got erratic.
Then a buddy told me to watch one of the Blackwidow videos which advocated shooting the cock feather at 12 o'clock. That seemed crazy to me but I figured "what the hell" I will try it. The difference was amazing. I doubt that I will ever shoot a 9 o'clock (right handed shooter) again. Try it.
interesting. Same spine shaft and everything?
 
Just got a bear paw penthalon riser Friday switched out the das bushings and put in ILF fittings on my DAS foam longbow limbs and man it’s a shooter quick and quiet it’s gonna go great with my DAS carbon recurve and switched from 70# to early 50#s and loving it
 

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interesting. Same spine shaft and everything?

Yep, that's a good point by @Allegheny Tom. I've been shooting with a 12'oclock cock feather for so long I didn't even think about that helping. My dad started doing it 20 years ago (probably when he shot a black widow and watched the video). It would probably help with your fletching hitting your hand.

Edit: Something really crazy to me is that Tom Clum shoots with a 3 o'clock cock feather.
 
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