As I have many times with my shotgun and patterning. Where I aim is where is goes. Being off an inch or so makes no difference at these close of ranges. If youre that picky then there's definitely no persuading you
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Red dot on Crossbow
- Thread starter devildog
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
- Messages
- 6,379
It has nothing to do with me being picky. It’s just a matter of facts. You said “any decent red dot will be 100% parallax free to a certain distance. Well beyond bow range”
This simply isn’t true. It’s been tested, the data doesn’t lie. Read the report.
I’m not against red dot sights, I just think accurate information is a good thing.
Iron_llama
Well-Known Member
You're right, of course, but for OP's purposes it doesn't really matter that much. Is there one red dot you would recommend for a crossbow? Tube-type or window? Pistol or full-size?
I wish burris would make a crappier version of the fast fire, that’s a little dimmer at low light.
For now the vortex crossfire ii has been great for me. I can dial it all the way down, small dot and dim.
I shoot 40 and in with the mini.
I have been unable to miss where I aim with the bow since I’ve put it on. Zero did move over about 5 months of no shooting. Couple clicks and back to zero.
Has held across another 50-60 shots, and I shoot it once before I leave the house to hunt.
For now the vortex crossfire ii has been great for me. I can dial it all the way down, small dot and dim.
I shoot 40 and in with the mini.
I have been unable to miss where I aim with the bow since I’ve put it on. Zero did move over about 5 months of no shooting. Couple clicks and back to zero.
Has held across another 50-60 shots, and I shoot it once before I leave the house to hunt.
This is good to hear. I have a vortex sitting in a it's box waiting to be put on something. Maybe it belongs on my crossbow.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2020
- Messages
- 6,379
I don’t hunt with a crossbow.
I like Aimpoint, Shield, Eotech. Trijicon is fine, just more sensitive to consistent form.
In the end it’s what works for the shooter.
I’m just saying don’t throw form completely out the window thinking it makes zero difference.
I put a Crimson Trace red dot on the HC and I like it better than my FF3s on my turkey guns because it has more range on the dot intensity.
devildog
Well-Known Member
On my crossbow I really like the Aimpoint Pro which is tube style. I think the tube helps you line up your check weld and keeps your shooting form half way decent, because you can't see the dot if you look through at an angle. I know I have put many bolts down range since I put on the Aimpoint and I everytime I am acurate or within an inch up or down at ranges from 10 yrds to 40yrds. My crossbow is shooting at 385 so that probably helps.
Someone explain this please:
Shot 1 bottom right, low right. Shot 2 bottom left, low right. Shot 3 top left, low right. Shot 4 top left, bullseye to the fletches. Haven’t changed the sight since I zeroed it. Only difference between first three shots and fourth was that I was 20 degrees right of the target or so, then on the last shot I was right in line. Same distance, basically same elevation. I’m confused.
Shot 1 bottom right, low right. Shot 2 bottom left, low right. Shot 3 top left, low right. Shot 4 top left, bullseye to the fletches. Haven’t changed the sight since I zeroed it. Only difference between first three shots and fourth was that I was 20 degrees right of the target or so, then on the last shot I was right in line. Same distance, basically same elevation. I’m confused.
Took two more shots. One was low right. The other was dead on. I’m thoroughly confused.
In your pic the first arrow seems to be more knock right. Is that correct?
Yes but I believe that shot was actually a little more FROM the right than 2 and 3. Maybe like 30 degrees instead of 20. 90% sure.
I wondering if it is a arrow issue. I number my arrows with a silver marker. I would take 1 arrow and shoot it several times. Be sure you have a good rest and set up so you are straight 90 degrees to the target.
How are you ensuring you have a repeatable cheek weld? As in, what's the definitive mark you consciously remember each time you shoulder your weapon?
I ask because when I implemented a repeatable anchor (we use anchors for archery but not for long weapons???) my groups came together quite nicely. Here is the method I used to ensure a positive cheek weld. It works similarly to an archery kisser or nose button. Part of my shot process now is mentally verifying that my cheek is touching the gear tie.
What Bow and what bolts are you shooting?
Barnett Recruit with the 20” Headhunters. Haven’t had any issues in 2-3 months of owning it but I admit I was only shooting the arrows in my hunting quiver. This 5pk was a gift from Barnett for one of the bolts losing an insert in my target, and I’m just getting around to shooting all of the new ones today. I am pretty dead on out to 30 with my hunting bolts, 4-6” groups at 40 but I don’t practice there much. Makes me think it could be arrows but I wonder if I shouldn’t go to archery shop to find out and possibly tune. And yes, tonight I’ll be shooting off a solid rest at 90 deg to the block.
I didn’t really have a method, just a feel that I tried to replicate each time. This could be an issue and I’m going to give your idea a shot. it’s shaped like a rifle AND a bow…only makes sense that anchors and cheek welds would and should behave similarly to both other platforms that the weapon is modeled after. I know there’s discussion in this thread about how much cheek weld matters with dots, and it ain’t the world’s most expensive dot sight to be sure, so maybe with my setup it all matters more. That’s why I brought the question here.
Right on buddy. Give it a go and see if it helps. If not, turn your bolt prior to each shot so a different vane is in the rail channel and record the results. You may find a given bolt flies better with a particular vane in the channel vs another.
Dumb follow up question: is the cock vane not weighted differently or something? I know my arrows for compound have the same weight vanes so it doesn’t make sense but the bolts have instructions to keep the white vane in the rail. Just for repeatability for dummies like me? Did they maybe spin/shaft test in house? Or did they probably just slap vanes on and send them my way? Or is there something I dunno about?
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I think carbon arrows are not consistent spinded. So as you rotate the arrow the spine or stiffness changes. I had a Koda bow crossbow and they suggested you do what Redbeard recomends.
I ask because I have a Barnett and couldn’t get the Barnett bolts to hit the same place twice. I switched to blood sports and didn’t have an issue.