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Any one used this to tune arrows?

Great illustration of why high foc was not a thing way back in the day. Tuning was and is to get as close to perfect arrow flight as possible with the chosen components. With a glue on head and wood arrows there werent and arent a ton of choices. The chosen head is going to dictate the spine required for good arrow flight. The required spine is going to, within a range, determine the weight per inch of the wood shaft and thus the total weight per pound of draw. Those limitations made high FOC almost an impossibility. That is largely, not solely, where the recommendation to shoot 10-12 grains per pound stems from. Terminal penetration was enhanced by the arrow getting to straight flight as quickly as possible and hitting the target flying straight. If the arrow needs more flight correction it is using energy that could otherwise go towards penetration and as everyone is aware square impact to the target will yield greater penetration than off square.

A bow produces a fixed amount of energy for every shooter. Every arrow has a certain amount of energy it can accept and fly right. That is why I have always started every build with the head and build from there regardless of the shaft material. With carbon there are way more choices that can be made to work but that can certainly come with a lot of chasing your tail. Pick your head, build an arrow that falls in that 10-12 gpp range and make sure it is flying as perfectly straight as you can get it and go kill stuff.
 
Went by ACE this afternoon and picked up an Irwin pipe clamp kit and a 48" section of 1/2" pipe. Drilled a wee pilot hole in each of the clamps when I got home. Then I set out checking some arrows. Think I was sold on the idea after the very first one I flexed (known good through nock tuning) yatzeed right on my index mark.

Thank you @KYhunter66 for posting the video. This is pretty fun. :D
 
Red Beard said:
Went by ACE this afternoon and picked up an Irwin pipe clamp kit and a 48" section of 1/2" pipe. Drilled a wee pilot hole in each of the clamps when I got home. Then I set out checking some arrows. Think I was sold on the idea after the very first one I flexed (known good through nock tuning) yatzeed right on my index mark.

Thank you @KYhunter66 for posting the video. This is pretty fun. :D
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I picked up this one from Harbor Freight Screenshot_20231229-185101_Chrome.jpg
 
Red Beard said:
Went by ACE this afternoon and picked up an Irwin pipe clamp kit and a 48" section of 1/2" pipe. Drilled a wee pilot hole in each of the clamps when I got home. Then I set out checking some arrows. Think I was sold on the idea after the very first one I flexed (known good through nock tuning) yatzeed right on my index mark.

Thank you @KYhunter66 for posting the video. This is pretty fun. :D
Click to expand...
When you checked your arrows with the bar clamp wear they bending to the riser with your nock tuning marks?
 
Jimdude said:
I have used this method for my last two sets of arrows. I put field points in both ends, turn it till it flexes downward and mark the top of the shaft with a paint pen. I’m all about this method. However… there are times where I rotate it and it will keep flexing different with each turn of the arrow. I think it may be because there is some slop in the device. The tolerances are not tight and it wobbles on the cranking end. I wonder if one of those ratcheting clamps would be better. Eventually I get it to flex consistently by playing with different length field points and trying with and without inserts. I don’t remember what worked best but there is a golden ticket!
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I'm wondering if the bar clamp I have from harbor Freight will work better because it's locked in a track and has less wobble I haven't had a chance to use it yet.Screenshot_20231229-185101_Chrome.jpg
 
KYhunter66 said:
I'm wondering if the bar clamp I have from harbor Freight will work better because it's locked in a track and has less wobble I haven't had a chance to use it yet.View attachment 97533
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Yeah please let us know. The pipe clamp kit I got has more slop in it than I would like. Gotta really keep your eye on it to make sure it's compressing evenly.
 
Red Beard said:
Yeah please let us know. The pipe clamp kit I got has more slop in it than I would like. Gotta really keep your eye on it to make sure it's compressing evenly.
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I will I'm still hunting in Ky haven't had time yet! Harbor Freight has 25% off this weekend sale!
 
Question for guys shooting traditional and using this method. Am I understanding this correctly? We want the flexed out part of the arrow position away from the riser?
 
The 36” one might be too small. I started with a 36” pipe and had to exchange it for a 48”. I lost a lot of space using 2 200grn field points and .204 half outs. I probably lost 3-3.5 inches on a 29” shaft plus the space the clamps take up
 
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