Any one used this to tune arrows?

[Andrew]

Andrew. It.”to me” gets confusing when I think of stiff side/ spine. That’s why I said you want it to flex towards the riser. Layman’s terms lol.

Thanks for clarifying. Yes it does get confusing. Doesn’t help I have a tendency to overthink things. Haha

 

[CZMark]

As promised, I tried this out with my old, cheap bar clamps (mine are actually pipe clamps). It seemed to work; all my arrows marked for best knock location bent away from my mark.

I think I will use this as a starting point for marking arrows, but I will absolutely still shoot them using different knock locations before final marking.

 

[KYhunter66]

Okay Just got back from hunting drilled the holes my clamp is 48in it works but I may have drilled the hole to hight it binds a little! I went 1/4 down from the top!

 

[Jimdude]

I wanted to mention some interesting observations that I should mention.
1. When you find the weakest side, the stiffest side is not necessarily 180 degrees on the opposite side. Is this important to know??? Probably not but I did find it interesting.
2. If you test before you cut the arrow you may find that the weak side can rotate around the shaft to a different location. This I believe is do to the spinning of the carbon weave process. Is this important to note? Absolutely!
I found these out with a homemade spine tester before I found this clamp technique which is MUCH FASTER.

 

[Jimdude]

I would argue that the spine tester method is inaccurate because it supports the arrow at the same distance now matter the length of the arrow

 

[KYhunter66]

The harbor Freight bar clamp 48in works great! just need to change the pin out that holds the clamp to the bar with a bolt fixed the flex in the clamp. It's really nice light weight and about the same size as my cut off saw on the work bench. Definitely worth it.

 

[KYhunter66]

As promised, I tried this out with my old, cheap bar clamps (mine are actually pipe clamps). It seemed to work; all my arrows marked for best knock location bent away from my mark.

I think I will use this as a starting point for marking arrows, but I will absolutely still shoot them using different knock locations before final marking.

I just finished checking all my older arrows that were nock tuned and with the bar clamp they were dead on!! I did notice two of them them that ware problem arrows bent really weak and all over the place. The rest down with my marks up. Really like the clamp as a starting point it will save a lot of time!!

 

[Red Beard]

The harbor Freight bar clamp 48in works great!View attachment 97588 just need to change the pin out that holds the clamp to the bar with a bolt fixed the flex in the clamp. It's really nice light weight and about the same size as my cut off saw on the work bench. Definitely worth it.

Any play in the rail that affects the reading?

 

[Red Beard]

@Andrew Yeah man I got it wrong. Please listen to @Jimdude. He had it right. Should flex toward riser.

 

[KYhunter66]

Any play in the rail that affects the reading?

No the only problem was the pin that holds the clamp to the rail bolt fixed it no play in the rail.

 

[GCTerpfan]

@Andrew Yeah man I got it wrong. Please listen to @Jimdude. He had it right. Should flex toward riser.

Did you have it wrong though? What you initially said seems to agree with @woodsdog2. The arrow is going to naturally flex towards the riser because of the string rolling off your fingers. Do you want to increase that flex or decrease it. You’re not changing the direction of the flex no matter what you do.

And does it matter as long as they are all the same and properly tuned?

By the way. This is one of the reasons I shoot aluminum.

 

[Red Beard]

...Do you want to increase that flex or decrease it...

...And does it matter as long as they are all the same and properly tuned?...

Sagely wisdom here. Mr. Miagi style.

 

[Jimdude]

Did you have it wrong though? What you initially said seems to agree with @woodsdog2. The arrow is going to naturally flex towards the riser because of the string rolling off your fingers. Do you want to increase that flex or decrease it. You’re not changing the direction of the flex no matter what you do.

And does it matter as long as they are all the same and properly tuned?

By the way. This is one of the reasons I shoot aluminum.

I’m going to take a shot at this answer using only my thought process on cause and effect and estimated logic. “Did i sound at all smart there?”
I would THINK that you want it oriented for max flex because the flex will then happen in the most horizontal direction possible. Turn to nock tune and it will flex, let’s say, right and up, or right and down.
I would also THINK that trying to align the spine to make it stiffer would be the most wonky because in theory it would be like if you had a bent metal rod and you were trying to bend it back to straight. It would fight you and turn till you got aggravated and put it in a vise.
This is not known information but it’s what makes sense to me and my thought process.

 

[KYhunter66]

I’m going to take a shot at this answer using only my thought process on cause and effect and estimated logic. “Did i sound at all smart there?”
I would THINK that you want it oriented for max flex because the flex will then happen in the most horizontal direction possible. Turn to nock tune and it will flex, let’s say, right and up, or right and down.
I would also THINK that trying to align the spine to make it stiffer would be the most wonky because in theory it would be like if you had a bent metal rod and you were trying to bend it back to straight. It would fight you and turn till you got aggravated and put it in a vise.
This is not known information but it’s what makes sense to me and my thought process.

I just tested all my arrows yesterday they all are now strate down in the clamp! mark on top! So they should bend to my riser lefthand long bow like the guy said in his video for compound bow the same direction the bow is trying to do it and not fight the bow. I'm gonna shoot today and see how it works. I was reading some ware they said it really didn't matter as long as they are all the same.

 

[GeoFish]

Just shoot aluminum, no need to go through this mess, LOL.

 

[GeoFish]

Follow up to my post above.
Why I hate carbon arrows.

1. Carbon arrow became popular because of the compound bow craze for speed. Not because they were better.

2. Carbo arrows cost more. I dont mind paying more for better quality, but not for inferior quality.

3. You can use the method posted by kyhunter66 but that does not mean your arrows will fly correctly. look again at the video in post 16. Go to the 5:30 mark. You will see that when Byron spine tested his arrows he had a pile of them that were not to spec, ,more cost. My experience is 25% to 33% are out of spec. Better quality arrows will have fewer lemons, but you always have some. Byron is paid by a arrow manufacture to promote their arrows. The manufacture only sends Byron the best of the best and even then alot of them do not meet spec.

4. Carbon arrows are dangerous. They can explode when shot if them are damaged. I think one of our mods had that happen.

5. I can buy some 2216's today and they will shoot just like the ones I got 25 years ago. Nock tune one arrow, make all of your arrows the same and you are done.

 

[Phopkins]

Shoot wood with the right spine. Lots of satisfaction to be gained mastering the nuances of natural fiber arrows.

 

[Jimdude]

I just tested all my arrows yesterday they all are now strate down in the clamp! mark on top! So they should bend to my riser lefthand long bow like the guy said in his video for compound bow the same direction the bow is trying to do it and not fight the bow. I'm gonna shoot today and see how it works. I was reading some ware they said it really didn't matter as long as they are all the same.

I would think that if they bend down and you put a mark on the top, when it’s on your bowstring, the mark should face right so that the arrow naturally bends left towards the riser.
I shoot a compound so when they bend straight down, I mark the top and on my bowstring the mark is on the top because they naturally want to bend down.

 

[KYhunter66]

I just finished shooting my 7 arrows one bare shaft and 6 with 3 5in left wing feathers and raps. 708gr 28.5 200gr SS inserts 250 points EFOC 500 shafts All bent down in the clamp marked on top turning nock point to the mark cock feather out left handed bow. They are perfect! At 18y I had my bare shaft touching my regular shafts! Really happy!!!

 

[KYhunter66]

He's some of the one's I was reading.