Why so?
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Standard, small, micro?
- Thread starter bigcat93
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boxerboxer
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- Dec 4, 2020
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Had the same thought. Surewood makes such a good shaft it really is a piece of cake. Wipe on poly to seal, cut to length, taper ends, glue on nock and point, and fletch like any other arrow. Tool investment is really just a decent taper tool, and depending on what tools you have around you can build one cheap.
What is the longevity of a wood arrow assuming you don't launch it into a rock? Asked better maybe... I have a few carbon arrows in the rotation that have seen near a thousand cycles. Could you expect similar resilience from any wood shafts or is there a point where you'd want to replace them?
For me, there is not much of a noticeable difference between wood, aluminum or carbon. Hit rock or metal and it is going to wreck all of them most of the time. In the last half dozen animals shot I have had 2 break, one in the animal(broke when the deer fell on it) and the other after passing through and hitting rock. Might have to do a little straightening every so often but that's a non issue and takes a couple seconds.
Carbon for sure win the durability contest but it's not like wood are super fragile.
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That seems like alot of weight up front? What poundage and speed are you getting and is it just for short shots?
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I'm shooting these out of a 56 pound at 28 Northern Mist longbow. I need a weak spined arrow so it can snake around the riser. The bow is an ASL (American Semi Longbow) and is nowhere near center cut. I try and keep all shots with the longbow 20 yards and in, although I'd like them in that 8 to 12 yard range. Trajectory is never an issue inside 20 yards. I'm guessing the speed is about 160 feet per second. The bow with this arrow is so quiet that I have missed deer and they didn't know they had been shot at within 20 yards.
This is a bone breaking arrow. The picture below is that same arrow shot at about 18 yards into a fresh buck humorous bone held free swinging in front of a hay bale. That bone and where that broadhead hit is about the toughest bone a deer can muster.
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LeTuB
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I use micro diameter for many years now, best in class in toughness (higher wall thickness) and better penetration (less surface contact)
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I've had Douglas Fir shafts from Surewood Shafts that I shot so much I wore the feathers off and had to refletch them. Also, every once and a while the arrow will hit something hard and break the shaft off right behind the field point. I just square off the shaft, retaper it and glue the point back on and keep shooting. That 3/4 inch of loss usually doesn't hurt a thing. I have a couple of arrows that have grown 2 inches or a little more shorter from that process and seem to be fine for stump shooting.
Anyone have suggestions on ones to try (.204/5mm), to get higher FOC?
No idea what I’m doing haha I bought blems to practice with at 600sp but they’re shooting weak, even with cutting them down.
FWIW - I have a GM ii with 45# trad tech black max recurve limbs, my draw is 27”.
I’d like to run a 125gr BH bc that’s what I have
No idea what I’m doing haha I bought blems to practice with at 600sp but they’re shooting weak, even with cutting them down.
FWIW - I have a GM ii with 45# trad tech black max recurve limbs, my draw is 27”.
I’d like to run a 125gr BH bc that’s what I have
Take with a grain of salt... I had to go down to 40lbs to get a 500 with 225gr up front (175 tip + 50 insert) to fly ok with my 27" draw.
So would you not worry about TAW? - more concerned about getting 15%+ FOC, but don’t want it to be super slow or bad trajectory…
If we're EXACTLY the same... you might be pleasantly surprised with a 500 cut to around 27.5" (carbon to carbon) installed with the other components I listed above, three 4" tomahawk fletch, a 3" blood visual assist (vinyl wrap), and an E-arc lighted nock. That arrow is 505 TAW. With this setup I personally get a 28yd point on with a 40lb draw weight.
I only give the specs because you are around my same DW/DL.
Of course the more I look at your handle the more I'm inclined to emphasize the grains of salt because there may be differences between us... big[yeah I'm a wittle guy]cat[completely despise the things]93[nice vintage but 10 years earlier is so much sweeter] 
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It’s like 2 truths and a lie, I’ll let you guess which one of those is correctOf course the more I look at your handle the more I'm inclined to emphasize the grains of salt because there may be differences between us... big[yeah I'm a wittle guy]cat[completely despise the things]93[nice vintage but 10 years earlier is so much sweeter]
Build an arrow that is somewhere in the 10-12gpp range and forget about FOC with a traditional bow. Put a broadhead on the front that is as sharp as you are capable of getting it and go kill stuff. If you cant get a head scary sharp, find a buddy that can or will teach you. We are primarily hunting 20 yards and in, FOC just simply isnt going to matter much at that range.
Wish I had this advice 3 years earlier.
Does FOC make a difference in flight and penetration? Simple answer is yes. Here's the thing though, very few folks shooting traditional bows or really any bow can shoot the difference in flight improvement a percent or two of foc will make. Penetration improvement, again we are talking small percents of gain if you are already shooting an reasonable weight arrow setup. Rather then spending the time chasing a few perccent gains here or there on the arrow setup, I think folks would be better served to spend that time an energy working on their shooting form and shot execution. Gains in accuracy will come faster and hitting what you want to hit builds confidence. Confidence kills stuff.