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10 Climbing Safety Considerations/Best Practices

elk yinzer

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In light of all the recent discussion about climbing safety I thought I would leave some thoughts about reasonable best practices. Not meant to be comprehensive, just trying to make the conversation more productive.

I am not an expert. My most significant qualification is probably that I have overcome a pretty extreme fear of heights when I was younger to be able to hunt from trees and trust my gear. I've long chased a better way to climb and have tried just about every climbing method fad that has come and gone on SH over the past 5 years or so from some that work well to some that I consider super sketchy.

Planning and practice

1) Know your capabilities and what you are getting into


Any time you leave the ground you could die. Accept that fact and take a very honest self-assessment of any factors that could contribute to that risk--physical fitness, coordination, knowledge, etc. Know that many advanced climbing techiques are not considered appropriate for beginners or those lacking phyiscal fitness or coordination.

Knowledge is critical also. One seemingly minor error tying a terminal knot or friction hitch can be the difference between life and death. Test everything at ground level or minimal height before committing to trying new things at height. Use common sense and skeptiscism when adopting new methods. In-person instruction from a qualified mentor is best, but if you're relying on internet resources use extreme caution. If something is not yet widely adopted, there's probably a reason for that. When in doubt stick to tried and true gear and best practices. As a beginner progress from basic methods to more advanced, don't go staright to the most complicated

2) Know the risks inherent to gear and methods

Every climbing method has its own set of inherent risks. This is a critical thinking exercise that in my opinion is best left to the individual to actually think about as opposed to looking to get schooled on google or social media for reference. What are the risks and how are you addressing them? In what ways can you get stuck? Is there gear that is essential and would leave you in a bind if you dropped it? What gear has redundancy, are you comfortable with gear that is single point of failure? Are there sharp objects you could impale yourself on? What is your plan to address these risks?

3) Practice every aspect of climb, including self-rescue, in a controlled setting

Practice in a controlled setting, but as close to hunting conditions as you can. Many fall guilty of practicing in ideal conditions then geting in a pickle in real-world hunting conditions. Make sure you can climb different size trees, different limb configurations, in bulky clothes, etc. From the results of your risk assessment, practice self-rescue from various situations. What sort of backup gear do you need to self-rescue and where do you keep it accessible?

4) Hunt with a partner or leave someone your plan/location

In a worst case scenario you want someone to know where you are and when you plan to return. Don't rely solely on a cell phone of PLB, it may not be accessible if you're in a bind.

During the climb

5) Maintain 3 points of contact and always tie-in


When climbing the best way to minimize injury is not fall in the first place. Follow the age old rule of always using three [solid] points of contact. Skip out on shady climbing methods that violate this principle.

6) Controlled movements

Always use methodical, controlled movements to climb, maneuver at height, and descend. Never be in a hurry. Don't use herky-jerky or tentative movements. Slow and steady is the safest way to operate.

7) Inspect gear and check again.

You should develop borderline obsessive habits about checking gear. Regularly check and double-check any life-support gear including ropes, webbing, carabiners, knots, friction hitches, mechanical devices, etc. Make note of where sharp edges, bends in ropes, or friction may cause premature wear. Mitgate those areas or keep an extra close eye on them. Replace gear when you have any doubts.

8) Always test connections.

Anytime when elevated you are switching connections, for example transitioning from one tether to another, or from a tether to a rappel device, is especially risky. When transitioning, maintain two connections, testing the one you are switching to, before disconnecting the other. Test sticks or steps with body weight before you step on them. Be cognizant of risky bad connections, for instance clipping into loose spare webbing that looks similar to your bridge.

9) Minimize slack/fall factor. "Tight tether and high anchor"

Fall factor is important for anyone that hunts at height to understand. It is the distance you would fall in relation to the amount of rope that would catch you. Example falling four feet on two feet of rope is a fall factor of 4/2=2, which is considered critically dangerous. This can be achieved by climbing above your anchor point, and one-stick climbing is a notable example where this frequently occurs. Higher fall factors are bad and can cause significant physical trauma even with seemingly short falls of just a couple feet. To minimize fall factor a general rule is always to make sure your anchor point is as high as possible, at least higher than where your tether connects to your harness/saddle, and to keep as little slack in your tether as possible.

10) Bad conditions call for extra caution

Wet, rainy, cold conditions. Seeting up in the dark. Fatigue from long days on stand. Excitement of buck fever. Panic when something goes wrong. All of these can play havoc on our brain and cause practically unimaginable and irrational consequences. We can get in a hurry and take dangerous shortcuts. This is not to say complacency is ok when it's nice out, but maintain your cool and take extra time to be cautious in these situations. In foreseeable bad conditions, conside simpler alternatives to more complicated/demanding methods that are better suited for ideal conditions.
 
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These are great reminders, and definitely in line with what I have been considering as I look at taking my first shot at one sticking in a hunting situation in the next few days. A lot of my preparation has been in dialing in my gear and my familiarity with it, as well as keeping a second tether/foot loop on my person during the climb for potential self rescue (which is probably overkill since I climb on my rappel line). I have decided that my first "real" sits should be climbs in daylight, with good weather, and in an accessible location that my family knows where I will be.

Best of luck to all, and stay safe!
 
In a "rules for thee and not for me" confession, I am consistently terrible at #4. I'll text my brother or dad a few times a year but usually forget. The rest I am pretty good about following.
As a chronic solo hunter, I am just now starting to be good about it. With the third kid being born, it makes my wife way more comfortable to know where I am.
 
In a "rules for thee and not for me" confession, I am consistently terrible at #4. I'll text my brother or dad a few times a year but usually forget. The rest I am pretty good about following.

I've gotten to where I just share my location through Google maps with my wife and a buddy when I'm heading in to the timber. Super simple and I don't have to send updates if I move or change plans based on sign.
 
In a "rules for thee and not for me" confession, I am consistently terrible at #4. I'll text my brother or dad a few times a year but usually forget. The rest I am pretty good about following.
I have started using the "share my location" on the maps app on my iphone to send my wife an exact gps location of where i am hunting if i have service. otherwise I give her a general idea before leaving.
 
I have started using the "share my location" on the maps app on my iphone to send my wife an exact gps location of where i am hunting if i have service. otherwise I give her a general idea before leaving.
I can't believe you guys actually trust your spouses with the locations of your best spots.:tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:
 
In a "rules for thee and not for me" confession, I am consistently terrible at #4. I'll text my brother or dad a few times a year but usually forget. The rest I am pretty good about following.
I don’t have any hunting partners so I send my wife my gps coordinates when I pick a tree to climb. If I don’t come home she can send help, or not…
 
I can't believe you guys actually trust your spouses with the locations of your best spots.:tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:

I'm probably doing a better job of narrowing down spots not worth hunting for her! Come to think of it, I should probably see if she has records so I can narrow my focus and hopefully find one of these so called best spots!!
 
I would say number 1, or 11, depending on how you look at it:

Make an honest assessment of why you’re climbing a tree to begin with. What you stand to gain. What you intend to accomplish. What are the risks. And then imagine the counter narrative where you find that same satisfaction a different, less risky way. If you can’t imagine that, and climbing a tree is definitely the move for you, proceed to number 2.
 
I believe there is a good ratio that balance out how far you go and what method you use. If you're going 2 miles deep in thick stuff, carrying weight and bulk matters, but if you're going a few hundred yards mostly on a trail, go with the safest. If its under 1/4 miles, I carry my Ameristep Rapid Rails which are really bulky but imho the most solid and easy to use method to climb.

 
I believe there is a good ratio that balance out how far you go and what method you use. If you're going 2 miles deep in thick stuff, carrying weight and bulk matters, but if you're going a few hundred yards mostly on a trail, go with the safest. If its under 1/4 miles, I carry my Ameristep Rapid Rails which are really bulky but imho the most solid and easy to use method to climb.

Yeah but I had a set and they were super noisy when you set them on the tree.
 
Yeah but I had a set and they were super noisy when you set them on the tree.
Put the slip on rubber chair leg caps on the ends and they are WAY quieter on the tress. Helps to wrap the sides of the cap and onto the tubing with some camo duct tape or electrical tape so you dont lose the caps.
 
Put the slip on rubber chair leg caps on the ends and they are WAY quieter on the tress. Helps to wrap the sides of the cap and onto the tubing with some camo duct tape or electrical tape so you dont lose the caps.
I would try that but I got rid of them about 15 years ago. :)
 
With respect to #3. when I was learning to be an arborist - one of the trainers had this lesson - tie the 8 knots on the list. now put your gloves on and tie them, see how much more effort it takes? now do it blind folded. (with and without gloves), now put your gloves in ice water, and try tying them again.

The end result - training is only good if it duplicates real world scenarios(in a safe manner) So now - when I add a new knot into the repertoire I get the basic fundamnetals of the knot down, then I up the difficulty. If I can tie the knot blindfolded with frozen hands perfectly every time -checking that i've set it properly by feel only, then I'm less likely to have issues in a real world scenario.
 
With respect to #3. when I was learning to be an arborist - one of the trainers had this lesson - tie the 8 knots on the list. now put your gloves on and tie them, see how much more effort it takes? now do it blind folded. (with and without gloves), now put your gloves in ice water, and try tying them again.

The end result - training is only good if it duplicates real world scenarios(in a safe manner) So now - when I add a new knot into the repertoire I get the basic fundamnetals of the knot down, then I up the difficulty. If I can tie the knot blindfolded with frozen hands perfectly every time -checking that i've set it properly by feel only, then I'm less likely to have issues in a real world scenario.
I will prolly repel from the frozen hands practice ;) The rest sounds like a very good idea to gain proficiency though.
 
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