Got a month of 2 finger shooting in now and I can definitively say that I've never shot better. Even my long range shooting (30yds) dramatically improved!
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2 under?
- Thread starter Red Beard
- Start date
Nah. I subscribe to Jeff Kavanaugh's "touch your ear" method.
I shoot, essentially, split 2-finger. I draw holding pressure with 2-fingers and my ring finger is actually sitting on the side, kind of stabilizing the string (I guess). I will note that I have tuned my bow to my physical shooting style, which I would define as a "dynamic instinctive." I do have a solid anchor and good (always open to interpretation) follow-through, but I don't hold at draw. I also don't gap, reference, or "crawl" shoot...
Guess what this exercise showed me is just how much pressure I was putting on my ring finger.
I have a homemade tab that is cut for two fingers under. Seems to work just fine.
As for tiller, I personally believe it’s irrelevant. Measuring static tiller is pointless once you introduce the archer. Bow hand grip and pressure, draw finger hook and pressure, nock point all induce variability to the dynamic tiller. I will not subscribe to the idea that a bow tillered for split finger will absolutely shoot quieter and better if shot split. I bet dimes to donuts I can make a split tillered bow shoot loud by changing how much I heel the bow.
As for tiller, I personally believe it’s irrelevant. Measuring static tiller is pointless once you introduce the archer. Bow hand grip and pressure, draw finger hook and pressure, nock point all induce variability to the dynamic tiller. I will not subscribe to the idea that a bow tillered for split finger will absolutely shoot quieter and better if shot split. I bet dimes to donuts I can make a split tillered bow shoot loud by changing how much I heel the bow.
Its funny bc yesterday with my wifes 30# black hunter i was shooting 2 under and found it a bit easier for consistency, trouble is i cant draw my 65# bear with 2 fingers lol but for lighter poundage it was weird yet differently easier.
I shot 2 under for a good 5 years, maybe more.
I have home made tabs laying around the garage.
One day I got the idea to make a tab with a plate and eventually it led to shooting 3 under again.
I am hesitant to share this because it can creep into your head but going back to 3 under I quickly discovered how much the third finger pressure moves arrow flight left and right.
I draw with a firm hook but feel a relaxed third finger at anchor.
I have home made tabs laying around the garage.
One day I got the idea to make a tab with a plate and eventually it led to shooting 3 under again.
I am hesitant to share this because it can creep into your head but going back to 3 under I quickly discovered how much the third finger pressure moves arrow flight left and right.
I draw with a firm hook but feel a relaxed third finger at anchor.
The 2 vs 3 might be reducing how much you’re torquing the string. This might be the L/R flight issue. On lighter bows especially it’s easier to grab the string and essentially twist it a bit out of its normal alignment, if that makes sense. If you’re doing that, it’ll be less pronounced using 2U So you’ll see less effect or even maybe eliminate it.
recurves especially, but longbow as well, I know the tiller can be affected by the shooter, but a bow tillered for split and shot how it’s designed will be quieter than shot 3U. Bows tillered 3U and shot 3U are better for noise, but still louder than split. Heeling a recurve and high wristing a longbow that aren’t inherently designed that way will mess up tuning, noise, and flight.
if you’re consistent in how you shoot, all is generally fine but it’s eye opening how the bows shoot when shot how they’re designed.
recurves especially, but longbow as well, I know the tiller can be affected by the shooter, but a bow tillered for split and shot how it’s designed will be quieter than shot 3U. Bows tillered 3U and shot 3U are better for noise, but still louder than split. Heeling a recurve and high wristing a longbow that aren’t inherently designed that way will mess up tuning, noise, and flight.
if you’re consistent in how you shoot, all is generally fine but it’s eye opening how the bows shoot when shot how they’re designed.
If it works and gives you more confidence and better release for better accuracy then have at it
@Red Beard ,I tried it (2 under) and.....I'm a 3 under guy. I did notice that if I relax the ring finger and "tap" it on the string (I shoot glove) to assure no pressure, the arrow flight seemed much more consistent?
I would like to offer an opinion on the tiller topic that was introduced to this conversation: I believe tiller is important to shot consistency. I'm certain, however, that I'm not good enough to enjoy the benefits of proper tiller. As far as the bow noise and tiller relationship is concerned...I believe the brace height has WAY more influence on noise than tiller ever would.
Have a GREAT day!
I would like to offer an opinion on the tiller topic that was introduced to this conversation: I believe tiller is important to shot consistency. I'm certain, however, that I'm not good enough to enjoy the benefits of proper tiller. As far as the bow noise and tiller relationship is concerned...I believe the brace height has WAY more influence on noise than tiller ever would.
Have a GREAT day!
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