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A typical hunt set up for me this year. (Single Stick Climb Video)

Yes, for morning hunts I typically like to be set up at hunting height about a 1/2 hour before first shooting light. I routinely do this in the dark with no issues. You only need to make out shapes over a couple of feet at most to use this method and in all but the darkest nights I can see that far. In fact, I rarely use a light walking in or out. I just take my time and follow terrain and large landmarks in to my intended area. After my eyes are acclimated to the dark I can "see" well enough to manage.
 
the predator rope is 11.5mm will it fit in the safeguard? it says its only good to 11mm?
 
the safeguard on moosejaw says size medium. its the only option though
 
One other question. How much rope do you think is needed to get to about 20-22ft?
 
What about side pressure or loading on the carabiner?


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@boyne bowhunter great videos and great idea using the turkey vest as pack then clipping it around the tree to use as a knee pad is really slick. Thanks for the tips and good luck this season.
 
What about side pressure or loading on the carabiner?


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This is a very good question and has been asked of me several times. If I had it to do over again I would use a threaded link for the video just so that I'm not promoting a carbiner in this application. In fact I tell my buddies considering this that this is a non-approved use of a biner and I use it at MY OWN RISK. Climbing methods are about evaluating your personal acceptable risk level and doing your best to minimize the risks.

In that regard I spent a great deal of time evaluating the attachment methods possible using a biner in this application. After much trial and error, I found by routing the rope in a very specific fashion and hand placing the carabiner where I can pay attention to it that I am not applying a cross load to the load bearing major axis of the carabiner. In the picture below, snipped from the video, you can clearly see that the major axis of the biner is not in contact with the tree. It it supported on both sides by the rope passing under it. It actually pulls further from the tree when I place my weight on it. I achieve this by always attaching the biner in the same way at the base of the tree, opening the gate and passing the rope through from underneath. Also as I climb I pay attention to how the biner lays on the tree. I'm hand placing it right in front of my face. If there's a knot or high spot in the bark that interferes, I'll relocate it before weighting it. I also am using a heavy duty steel biner for this attachment (you'll notice the rest of my biners are Positrons). All this is done to minimize the risk of a side load or possible failure from such.

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The fact is I use a threaded link for my girth hitch when I'm climbing SRT simply because I can't hand place the attachment point and can't assure I'm not cross loading.

Bottom line is, as has been stated here much, climbing has inherrent risks and each of us must do our own due diligence to assure we are secure in how we stay attached to the tree.
 
I thought I'd put together a video of the single stick climbing method, tree setup and descent I used this year. I have some more detailed videos I'm still processing and will upload later. I hope you enjoy.


Edit: Added a couple of links to more detailed videos with descriptions of the methods.

It’s worth watching these just for the PSA. Well done, sir! Color me intrigued by this method.
 
I've had several PMs now asking for a breakdown of the gear I used but didn't detail in the video so I'll add it here for future reference.

Ascender/Rappel Device
: Madrock Safeguard (I bought this direct from Madrock)
Rope: The rope I'm using in the video is a 40 ft length of a discontinued color of Teufelberger Tachyon 11.5mm (Wesspur). I also use Samson Predator (Wesspur) for this as well. I bought the Tachyon with a sliced eye. I splice my own Predator but if you're not familiar with splicing its worth the extra splice charge.
Climbing Stick Mods: The Hawk Helium climbing stick was modified by cutting about 6" off it, removing a set of steps and redilling and relocating the middle set near the end. I found the process for this here on the forum. I replaced the stock strap with a 6 ft piece of 8mm Samson Accessory cord tied arounds the stick with a figure 8 on a bight. I added a Harken Cam-Matic 150 cam cleat to provide a means for attach/release at arms length.(West Marine).
Aider: The aider is a 1" solid color polyester webbing (strapworks) that is water knotted to create a continuous loop that is wrapped around the top stick standoff. I just slipped an 8-10in piece of plastic tubing over it to hold if open for my foot (basement junk pile).

Hope this helps answer some of the questions.
What bow holder was that and where can i get it? Great info by the way
 
What bow holder was that and where can i get it? Great info by the way
Thanks for the kind words. The hanger is a Qlipter. I don't think they're available anymore, I wish I had bought another when I still could. :( About the closest I have seen in the Heroclip. It similar but not quite the same.
 
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